St. Malo, Brittany Region – 2026

Since we had a car, we wanted to go outside of the city.  One of the cities we visited was Saint Malo situated along the coastline. Saint-Malo was founded in the 1st century BC, a short distance south of its current location in Brittany. The first settlement, in what is now St-Servan, was built by Celtic tribesmen in order to control the entrance to the Rance River for economic and military purposes. Due to its strategic location, was extensively fortified over the centuries.

Saint-Malo was once an island but had been joined to the mainland by a causeway and a road. It was heavily destroyed in WWII, but the city was rebuilt with extraordinary care, keeping the historic street pattern and the sense of a fortified “island city” that defines Saint-Malo’s character today. The city played into the piracy theme with a number of ‘pirate’ ships in the marina. Several could be boarded and explored in their harbor.

There were citizens living there but also a number of accommodations for hotel guests were available. We saw guests dragging their suitcases through the cobblestone streets.

Eric found a free lot – great. We parked then walked and walked and walked. And remember………….this also meant we would be walking back to said ‘free’ parking lot. Let’s just say, early on this sojourn I swore to myself to be involved in future parking decisions. If we can afford to fly to Europe, we can pay for parking – just saying.

We found the city wall and then saw these ladies in the water.  No thank you.  I don’t know what the temperature of the water was, but you can see in our coming photos, we were bundled up.  This was probably our coolest day the entire trip.

The wooden posts were another layer of protection along the city wall.

Someone was having a bit of fun and I found this along the seawall.

The tide was in when we arrived and footpath to these rocks seen in the background of my photo were underwater.

There was a special feature this city was known for. We needed to walk into the old city and find their beach.

Notice that square, walled in area?

Yep, this is a tidal pool filled with seawater once the tide goes out. This day there were kayakers enjoying the space.

Also found a church, but not the one I was expecting. I was looking for St. Malo Church. I put it in the map app and it said it was miles away? What? What did I do wrong? Absolutely nothing. The St. Malo Church was in Dinan.

Saint-Vincent Cathedral of Saint-Malo is a historic Roman Catholic cathedral located in the walled city of Saint-Malo, Brittany, France. The cathedral’s origins date back to the 12th century, and it has undergone several reconstructions due to damage from wars and natural disasters.

The Great Rose window was designed in 1968 by architect Raymond Cornon. It replaced an earlier rose window destroyed in 1693 during an English attack on the cathedral.

But then I noticed the altar. A little research found this information.

The bronze altar in the cathedral was consecrated in 1991. The theme of the altar is the tetramorph or the four Evangelists appearing in animal form. The four Evangelists are winged; the wing is an ancient symbol of divinity with each representing the virtues required for Christian salvation. The lion of St. Mark represents courage, resurrection, and royalty. The ox is an ancient Christian symbol of redemption and life through sacrifice. The eagle of John represents the sky, heavens, and the human spirit. Matthew’s emblem is a man. My photo shows the eagle and the ox.

The choir and organ was on the main floor of the cathedral.

The stained-glass windows of Saint-Malo Cathedral depict scenes from the history of the city, the cathedral, and the saints associated with Brittany. This window shows 7 of the Breton saints. There was a lot of storytelling going on within their windows.

We were on our way out when we visited the church and I was able to capture a few outside photos. Much more interesting than my first photo of the church front.

Don’t know where Adrienne went, but I found Eric.

But wait! Would I have a blog post without food? No, indeed. Since this is also a port town, there was a highly rated seafood restaurant at their Ferry departure station.

We shared these starters. The seafood in the right photo? Those are Adrienne’s new favorite seafood: bulots. They are large edible sea snails, commonly known as whelks in the US. They thrive in the temperate, nutrient-rich coastal water with Brittany being the most well-known region for harvesting them.

The girls chose a mild, local fish called Hake for our meal while Eric ordered the mussels & frites. More carrots for Adrienne! Eric ordered his mussels ‘Moules a la Mariniere‘ style. They were steamed in a broth of white wine, shallots, garlic and herbs.

Walking (and walking and walking) back to our parked car, we could see a difference in the tide. These footpaths that were under water when we arrived were now available for exploring.

We were glad we explored St. Malo and got out of the city.

Ginny

The City of Rennes – 2026

Rennes is a medieval old town in Northwestern France, dating back 2000+ years when it was a small Gallican village. It has a long history due to the location at the confluence of two rivers (Ille & Vilaine). During the Roman era, the strategic position of the town contributed to its importance.

North West corner of France

In 1534 this area became more fully connected with France and became the Province of Brittany. During WWII Rennes initially suffered heavy (German) damage and then again in 1943 & 1944 by the U.S. and Royal Air Force. In the 1980s Rennes became one of the main centers of Telecommunications and the high-tech industry.

We stayed in the old town center and everything was within easy walking distance.

Old town center

Typically, we pick up yogurt and fruit for a light breakfast in our place. Everyone gets up on their own time, selects a beverage of choice and wait for the others to be ready to start the day. After all, we are on vacation. 🙂 Those two needed a bit more food one morning. Nearby there was a small market open several hours on a Sunday – when many things were closed.

They had fresh produce………..

……..along with seafood.

Eric found some oysters and wine for the two of them. I wasn’t feeling it and kept exploring.

The first church we came across this morning was Cathedral Saint-Pierre de Rennes. This was one of the (very) few times we didn’t enter a church. The current site has been used since the 3rd century and was likely built in place of an older sanctuary. That building was completely replaced by a Gothic church in the 12th century. In 1490 the tower and western facade of the Gothic church collapsed. Reconstruction took 163 years and led to a classical style. The nave and choir had not been restored and in 1754 in the middle of religious services, a large stone came off the vault of the choir. Construction started and stopped until the now neoclassical cathedral with a classical facade was completed in 1846.

A short distance away was Porte Mordelaise.

It’s location dates to the 3rd century with the architecture dating mainly from the 15th century. The future dukes had to take an oath in front of this entrance and it is sometimes called the royal door.

Over the years, the Mordelaises gate lost some of their statue due to its landlocked position in the historic center of the city. Thus, they have become less well known to tourists, even though it is the only fortified door that remains in the city.

The weather has been beautiful and we headed towards the Thabor Gardens, which is fronted by a church: Paroisse Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle.

The building is considered unfinished due to a 1905 law that separates church and the state, which stopped public funding. It replaced an old church of the same name located in the same square. It remains a Catholic place of worship.

Just so you know that is Adrienne in the bottom right of my photo below.

We had the place to ourselves.

The gardens were behind the church and had a lovely tree canopy.

I could write all the info below………..or just take a screen shot. 🙂

Naturally there were some statues.

But oh my – the flowers. Believe it or not, I curated at least half of the photos I took.

I came across this ‘traditional’ topiary during my wandering. This is for you Eric.

Before leaving the city to continue Eric’s birthday trip, we ate at Breizh Cafe. Eric had read about it before leaving home and made a reservation. The cafe embodies the connection between Brittany and Japan. After training in Dinan, the owner/husband followed his wife to Japan and in 1996 opened his first cafe in Tokyo blending Breton expertise, buckwheat and cider.

The Breizh Cafe Farm is dedicated to buckwheat and cider apples and an international training school for their Crepe Workshop. Their creed is to be respectful of Breton heritage and committed to sustainability forming an ecosystem where tradition, excellence and knowledge-sharing promote Brittany. An upcoming weekend they were having an event at their farm. Would have loved to attend, but we would be traveling out of the area when it occured.

Adrienne stayed with her red wine, while I enjoyed a local beer and Eric drank their cider.

We started with oysters (you’re going to continue hearing about them!).

However, the main reason this restaurant was selected was due to Galettes – a specialty of this region. Buckwheat flour makes the galette savory.

Eric and I split the traditional galette while Adrienne ordered their daily special with mushrooms. You can see the chef prepare the galettes.

They came out hot and yummy.

Naturally we had to try their dessert crepes. They are made with wheat flour, eggs and whole milk, plus your chosen filling.

Naturally we had to try three different types.

It was a great way to end our last evening in Rennes. Back to the train station to pick up our rental car. Next stop is Dinan, via Cancale.

Ginny