Rennes is a medieval old town in Northwestern France, dating back 2000+ years when it was a small Gallican village. It has a long history due to the location at the confluence of two rivers (Ille & Vilaine). During the Roman era, the strategic position of the town contributed to its importance.
In 1534 this area became more fully connected with France and became the Province of Brittany. During WWII Rennes initially suffered heavy (German) damage and then again in 1943 & 1944 by the U.S. and Royal Air Force. In the 1980s Rennes became one of the main centers of Telecommunications and the high-tech industry.
We stayed in the old town center and everything was within easy walking distance.
Typically, we pick up yogurt and fruit for a light breakfast in our place. Everyone gets up on their own time, selects a beverage of choice and wait for the others to be ready to start the day. After all, we are on vacation. 🙂 Those two needed a bit more food one morning. Nearby there was a small market open several hours on a Sunday – when many things were closed.
They had fresh produce………..
……..along with seafood.
Eric found some oysters and wine for the two of them. I wasn’t feeling it and kept exploring.
The first church we came across this morning was Cathedral Saint-Pierre de Rennes. This was one of the (very) few times we didn’t enter a church. The current site has been used since the 3rd century and was likely built in place of an older sanctuary. That building was completely replaced by a Gothic church in the 12th century. In 1490 the tower and western facade of the Gothic church collapsed. Reconstruction took 163 years and led to a classical style. The nave and choir had not been restored and in 1754 in the middle of religious services, a large stone came off the vault of the choir. Construction started and stopped until the now neoclassical cathedral with a classical facade was completed in 1846.
A short distance away was Porte Mordelaise.
It’s location dates to the 3rd century with the architecture dating mainly from the 15th century. The future dukes had to take an oath in front of this entrance and it is sometimes called the royal door.
Over the years, the Mordelaises gate lost some of their statue due to its landlocked position in the historic center of the city. Thus, they have become less well known to tourists, even though it is the only fortified door that remains in the city.
The weather has been beautiful and we headed towards the Thabor Gardens, which is fronted by a church: Paroisse Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle.
The building is considered unfinished due to a 1905 law that separates church and the state, which stopped public funding. It replaced an old church of the same name located in the same square. It remains a Catholic place of worship.
Just so you know that is Adrienne in the bottom right of my photo below.
We had the place to ourselves.
The gardens were behind the church and had a lovely tree canopy.
I could write all the info below………..or just take a screen shot. 🙂
Naturally there were some statues.
But oh my – the flowers. Believe it or not, I curated at least half of the photos I took.
I came across this ‘traditional’ topiary during my wandering. This is for you Eric.
Before leaving the city to continue Eric’s birthday trip, we ate at Breizh Cafe. Eric had read about it before leaving home and made a reservation. The cafe embodies the connection between Brittany and Japan. After training in Dinan, the owner/husband followed his wife to Japan and in 1996 opened his first cafe in Tokyo blending Breton expertise, buckwheat and cider.
The Breizh Cafe Farm is dedicated to buckwheat and cider apples and an international training school for their Crepe Workshop. Their creed is to be respectful of Breton heritage and committed to sustainability forming an ecosystem where tradition, excellence and knowledge-sharing promote Brittany. An upcoming weekend they were having an event at their farm. Would have loved to attend, but we would be traveling out of the area when it occured.
Adrienne stayed with her red wine, while I enjoyed a local beer and Eric drank their cider.
We started with oysters (you’re going to continue hearing about them!).
However, the main reason this restaurant was selected was due to Galettes – a specialty of this region. Buckwheat flour makes the galette savory.
Eric and I split the traditional galette while Adrienne ordered their daily special with mushrooms. You can see the chef prepare the galettes.
They came out hot and yummy.
Naturally we had to try their dessert crepes. They are made with wheat flour, eggs and whole milk, plus your chosen filling.
Naturally we had to try three different types.
It was a great way to end our last evening in Rennes. Back to the train station to pick up our rental car. Next stop is Dinan, via Cancale.
Darden Travels 