dinan – Darden Travels

Dinan to Paris – 2026

October 5, 2026 by ginnyinshanghai

My previous post mentioned looking for the St. Malo church while we were in St. Malo and lo and behold…………..it was in Dinan. We found it.

Built in 1490 this majestic Gothic church was intended as a symbol of power in the aftermath of the Breton War. Prior to this time, it was outside the city walls and presented a risk of occupation during wartime. A Duke ordered its destruction. The civic-minded people of Dinan initiated construction of a new church within the secure city.

As early funding dwindled and progress slowed it was pillaged, repurposed and left in a state of disrepair during the Revolution. Restoration began during the mid-19th century and is now fully recognized for its architectural and historical significance.

The last morning when we checked out Adrienne continued her early morning run and shared a few photos from that. Le Chateau de Dinan.

She found an 18-hole mini golf course near the chateau.

Along with this vibrant lavender floral shot. I think I’m rubbing off on Adrienne. 🙂

This AirBNB included v.e.r.y close parking lot, along with a key card for ‘free’ parking. Love that! Also chuckled every time we passed by this ad. Remember? This was a medieval town.

Rennes was less than 2 hours away and we chose scenic routes whenever possible. The rental car was being returned at the Rennes train station. Alas, I did more driving than normal this trip in Europe, but no photo. 😦

Waiting for the train notification of the track, Adrienne and Eric like to find a comfortable place to relax, maybe set some wine. No, not me! I want to wander around the train station and see what I can find. They finally joined me as the crowd was patiently waiting for their information.

In the past we’ve had a few mishaps with our train, so we’re all particularly sensitive to ensuring we have the right train, the correct car and the designated seats. It was a painful learning experience – that’s all I’m saying.

Don’t believe I’ve talked about Europe’s solution to bottle cap litter. The cap stays tethered to the bottle. Announced in 2018 it was mandatory for EU states to phase out the loose caps. The reasoning was the caps were one of the most littered single-use plastic products on EU beaches. Coca Cola was one of the first to embrace the change across Europe. I like it. It’s not without controversary or arguments on various social media platforms. Oh well. Wish it was here in the states – maybe one day.

Okay, back to the trip. The train ride was easy enough and we were back in Paris, right on time. This AirBNB was within walking distance from the train so off we went.

Found the AirBNB with solid instructions (and photos) from the host. Also, as a side note, there was more than one green door along this side street.

Of the three AirBNBs we stayed in, the others ranked higher. This one was functional and located in the spot we wanted. The 2 bedrooms had enough room for a queen size bed, and the two separate bathrooms were squeezed into spare corners of the floorplan. Absolutely nothing wrong but the other places Eric booked were fabulous choices.

We had reservations for dinner the day we arrived and Eric chose a historic Brasserie within walking distance – just 1 year shy of being 100 years old. In the ‘Roaring twenties, Montparnasse houses a large artistic and literary community. The restaurant is decorated in the contemporary art deco style of those times. It was said that many of the framed artwork around the restaurant were given to the owners. Previous diners are numerous historical figures. This was the place to go and be seen.

This stunning bronze sculpture was called La Terre (Earth) that stands prominently in the middle of the restaurant. It was unveiled in 1993. The original revolving version is now in Tokyo.

A nice precursor to the meal.

These were some amazing starters:

I totally LOVED my choice of chicken supreme. I’ve had this several times in Europe, but this was hands down the B.E.S.T.

Adrienne’s selection was sea bass on a bed of risotto – she enjoyed it.

Eric’s selection was veal liver w/balsamic sauce and confit shallots. It also came with mashed potatoes, in a side bowl.

You must finish a meal like this with desserts. I had seen something similar earlier in our trip, but the restaurant had run out of that dessert by the time we ordered. Tonight it was mine: pavlova with summer fruits and red coulee.

Adrienne chose ice cream, selecting Madagascar vanilla and pistachio flavors.

Eric’s selection was a production: rhum baba.

This was an absolute fabulous meal and a great way to start the next several days in Paris.

At the top I mentioned multiple green doors on our side street. Let’s just say that with the copious amounts of wine that came to our table……….all doors look alike – especially at night – and until we got to the fourth door, our key fob didn’t work.

Ginny

Dinan dining – 2026

September 22, 2026 by ginnyinshanghai

We had two fabulous meals and also a chance to explore their weekly market. Let’s start with one of the restaurants.

Eric researched restaurants prior to coming and this was one he reserved. He usually checks the Michelon guide (this was in it) for their recommendations and he hasn’t gone wrong yet.

It was primarily Breton inspired food with Japanese influences. Their menu was set – to a degree – with just a few selections. Fine by me, definitely makes things easier. They look for local know-how and respect for the seasons. Makes perfect sense to me.

While the other two pretty much continued with wine for dinner, I went with a local cidre.

It was dry without being ‘too’ dry, still having a hint of sweetness from the apples.

The bread was unique with squid ink added for the black color. Didn’t give it any flavor, just the look. It was okay, I would eat it again. The other two photos were the appetizers: sardine roll and foie gras.

Between the three of us we got both of the main plates: (L) Seabass with artichoke hearts & assorted veggies and (R) Beef with a variety of mushrooms.

By now I’m getting full, so Adrienne and I split the cake w/grapes and Eric had the featured chocolate option. All were happy with their choices.

It was a r.e.a.l.l.y good meal, but not for all. While we were sitting there a few groups left once they saw the limited choices on the menu.

I’m breaking up the meals with a trip to their weekly market. This was the view from the AirBNB window right when I woke up. By the time we got down there, it was getting packed with locals.

One of the first stalls we walked past was these mountain of garlic cloves and shallots. Eric sooooooo wanted to bring some home, but we can’t.

We were told that red onions was a local crop they were known for. I will say most of the dishes we ordered seemed to have red onions.

Naturally I took many photos in the flower stall, but I narrowed it down to just three photos for this post. Notice the far one on the right? It was dried flowers, wrapped in music paper. Nice.

I wanted to bring home some local honey and I found it! Eric was my taste tester.

I didn’t realize Adrienne took the above photo so after the purchase I asked the gentleman if I could get a photo and he agreed. His only comment was ‘Let me put away my phone’. No problem.

Prepared food was also available. Paella (L) and Rotisserie Chicken (R). Notice the potatoes under the chicken? Roasted and seasoned with chicken drippings. Yum.

These gourds and squash got me excited for the Fall season to arrive. Time to embrace the change of seasons and decorate!

These root vegetables were also looking mighty fine. We think we found a carrot that Adrienne actually likes. The lighter carrots had less carotene and seemed milder. They were in a number of dishes and she ate them – willingly for the most part.

We made some purchases for our last night in the city.

Almost forgot to include the oysters. They could be purchased and eaten at home, or the purveyor would prep them for immediate eating. We did both.

Let’s talk about our best meal in Dinan – Le Cantorbery. It was suggested by our AirBNB host and Eric reminded us some of our best meals during our travels have come through our host. This was no exception. A Dinan institution for 70+ years, it began a new chapter in 2023 with a change of ownership and kitchen leadership. The chef brings with him a prestigious international experience from around the world: Longdon, Sweden, China, US and the Caribbean. They bring local heritage to life by combining a modern version to the table, with the respect for the product a top priority. Yes, most of that info was from their website, but it showed in their execution.

We started with some wine and cider (for me) along with amuse bouche (carrot mousse). Definitely liked the seafood fritter best.

Eric tried to make reservations but when setting up the account it wouldn’t take his US phone number. Ultimately our host made them for us. Another reason he is ranked as a ‘super host’. Our starters were salmon and a dish that highlighted avocado. Sorry about that last description. That’s the best I could do.

This was the main reason Eric was excited to dine here. It was local Charolais (french) beef only available for a party of two. Not my thing and Adrienne was excited to be the other half of that party. 🙂

I didn’t need another full entre so I ordered the ‘vegetarian’ plate (L), which I truly enjoyed. Their side plate (R) was a simpler version. Eric shared some of the beef that was less rare. 🙂 I had plenty to eat.

Naturally, needed to end the meal with dessert. Adrienne selected the plate highlighting banana flavor – BTW, that is not a real banana, but a mousse created to resemble the fruit. Eric got the Rhum Baba with a small injector included as part of the presentation. Me? I got the chocolate creation with the caramelized (impressive) decoration. No complaints about any of these selections.

Our market purchases were make with a goal in mind – our last night would be at our rental with local product. We thought we had enough, until we saw this: Pate en croute – Tout cochon. Oh my. The shop was closing within 15 minutes and they were putting away their items. She saw our excitement and agreed to sell us two slices of this tasty treat.

Everything was pulled together for a tasty repast. Everything was so good it was hard to pull out my favofrite. The oysters were salty and I knew likely my last taste from this region. The pate was some of the best I had. I am so envious of the local cheese, olives and local bread. Wow, just wow.

There’s no topping that, but wanted to share a favorite pasttime of Eric’s. No matter which country we visit, he tries to find a local establishment and meet locals. This time was no different. One of his last visits, he met the owner and got to hear first-hand the proud history and culture from one that grew up in Dinan. Yes, I stopped in for a final beer in Dinan.

Our time in Dinan was quickly coming to a close. We really loved our time in Dinan and would recommend this city for a base to discover and explore this region of France.

Ginny

The City of Dinan – 2026

September 20, 2026 by ginnyinshanghai

The city was first mentioned in 1040. It is situated on the banks of the River Rance. In the 12th & 13th centuries, the Lords of Dinan governed a rich and dynamic town which led to Dinan’s prosperity in the late Middle Ages. The town developed on a hill overlooking the Rance River, a naturally defensive location that allowed control over trade routes and access to central Brittany. The town was besieged by the Normans in the 11th century, an event depicted on the Bayeux Tapestry (I put that historical tidbit in just for Eric).

Dinan retains a medieval core with cobbled streets, half-timbered houses, and significant monuments. The town became a market and small-industries center, while preserving its medieval architecture, making it a popular tourist destination. Dinan’s history reflects a blend of strategic military importance, religious influence, and commercial activity, with its well-preserved medieval architecture offering a window into over a millennium of Breton history.

Loved finding some of these details on the houses.

Now it’s time to walk down one of their famous streets – La rue du Jerzual. This street links the port to the upper part of the city and was until the late 18th century the main axis to cross the city in spite of its steep slope.

The route was steeper than the photos indicate – especially when the cobblestones were wet. After I took the photo of Eric, I noticed the figures up above on the house.

How cute! Most people don’t even see them.

We made it to the bottom with no broken bones and discovered the port.

We needed some nourishment after that feat and found just the place.

We continiue to share giving us a chance to order and taste a multitude of items.

Clockwise starting upper left: Eggs Mayonnaise, mussels, frites and Bulots & oysters.

Now it was time to walk back up.

There may have been a few stops along the way………….with the (stone) benches provided.

Halfway up we came to the Jerzual Gate. The current gatehouse was built in the first part of the 14th century. It is a single tower 15 m high, defending access to the town from the port and at one point was reinforced with a drawbridge.

We were up on another section of the ramparts, seeing a rooftop view of the city.

Not satisfied with walking the steep streetrs of Dinan, two of us walked up the stairs to their clock tower with a height of 43 meters.

It was a process: circle stone steps, wooden landings & steps and then the final part – a steep ladder. Yikes! Let’s just say it was not fun coming down the ladder.

Nearby was the Basilica Saint Sauveur.

Legend has is that the lord of Dinan founded the priory in 1112 upon his return from the Holy Land. As the story goes, the knight was taken prisoner during the First Crusade and vowed to build a church in honor of St. Sauveur and the Holy Trinity if he ever returned home. No surviving documentation confirmed this tale, but it makes for a charming story.

It may be hard to see in the photo above, but this church only had chapels on one side. which can be seen below in the floor plan.

I’ve been trying to get this post ready for days. I’m done now. Still more to come.

Ginny

Dinan via Cancale – 2026

September 18, 2026 by ginnyinshanghai

Eric’s specific birthday request was to be eating oysters at Cancale on his birthday. We did just that. Happy Birthday dear! Our first view of Cancale…………

This is an area along the coastline with fairly big tidal surges. When we arrived, the tide was going out. The first time I saw something like this I thought ‘Oh no, those boats are stranded’. Nope. The captain planned it that way and will sail out when the tides comes back in.

While there are a number of restaurants along the coastline, we headed to the outside oyster stalls.

Decide which stall you’re going purchase from, get your plate with prepped oysters then find a place to sit. No, we didn’t eat all of the oysters seen below but at least 3 dozen were eaten before we had lunch.

Yes, I had several. I kept looking for the smallest ones which also seemed to be saltier, which I liked!

There were a number of birds enjoying the leftover oysters shells, picking out pieces to eat.

Speaking of lunch…………..Eric also wanted a ‘seafood tower’ for his birthday. He got it – and shared with Adrienne.

I ordered the mussels & frites in a cream sauce. Everything was shared amongst the group.

This was where I was introduced to their local cola. Loved it! Ordered it every chance I had.

On to Dinan! I took over driving duties as the other two enjoyed numerous glasses of wine. Eric found us a fabulous place to stay in Dinan. We’re on the top floor of this building, and yes, there was an elevator.

This is one of the nicest AirBNBs we have stayed in. Kitchen and living spaces were on the main (3rd) floor. Bedrooms and the second bathroom were above.

After walking a bit, we needed some supper before turning in our first night in Dinan. We followed the suggestion of our host and tried to get into his top choice – but alas, we had to go to Plan B. Yes, that was our next option – especially once we came across this establishment.