Reykjavik Winter 2024, #2

Booking with AirBNB, sets you up to receive ‘suggestions’ for other activities. Eric got a notice for this local company ‘Funky Iceland’ and booked us the ‘Funky History Walk with a Local Storyteller’. Their guides take you through 1150 years of Icelandic history and the fight for surival, freedom and tolerance. These values continue to shape its liberal attitudes today. BTW – the rainbow painted on the street is considered ‘street art’. More on that further in the post.

We met at the Viking statue, in front of the Hallgrimskirkja church. We walked the area earlier and I shot these night-time photos of the church.

The tour allowed us to go inside and the history lessons started. The vaulted ceiling was truly awe-inspiring.

Turn around 180 degrees, look up to see their massive organ.

With all of the tourists around, there was a small chapel in the corner for individual solitude and prayers.

Interesting thing about their seating. The backs can be moved to face the pulpit or face the organ, locking in place for musical concerts.

Across the street was our next stop……a sculpture garden holding the work of Einer Jonsson. Also a great spot to capture the church from another angle.

He is often called the first Icelandic sculptor, gaining international attention. The Icelandic Parliament agreed to build a home for him and his wife in exchange for the donation of his collection after his death in 1954. Walking the gardens was free for all to visit, containing 20+ pieces of his art.

In honor of the upcoming holiday season………

We continued the tour through nearby residential areas and I came across street art or murals that caught my eye. Most references to street art date to 2015 when Iceland Airwaves/Uran nation collaborated for ‘Wall Poetry’. Not exactly true as street art was firmly entrenched as of 2009. ‘Tagging and vandalism occurs everywhere, but street art has much more structure around its concept.

Some are a bit more abstract than others. Some are commissioned and many are on private property.

Check the internet as there are guided and self-guided tours of Reykjavik Street art.

As we meandered to the bottom of the hill, the destination was City Hall that housed a giant relief of Iceland.

Alas, we walked in, and it was gone. There were chairs and a runway set up for a future event. The map sets upon rollers and can be rolled into a holding space when events were planned. I did my own internet research and discovered the map is based upon 1948 U.S. Army map series and was started in 1985. It is composed of 1mm thick cardboard cut along the contour lines of the maps. The are glued, stapled or nailed as needed.

Found this photo on the internet after a lot of searching since we didn’t see it in person.

What we did encounter was a protest! Really? Really!. A quiet (indoor) spot for the guide to talk history kept getting louder and full of small children. Then the parents brought out instruments of noise for their children – whatever they obviously had at home. We asked one of the adults what was going on……………………….schoolteachers were protesting for their wages. Power to the people!

The media showed up and was doing a few interviews.

It got too loud for conversation, so we headed for our last stop, an Icelandic tradition…….Icelandic hotdogs. This spot is the most ‘famous’ location for hot dogs. Yep, it is outside in a small square. What makes their hot dogs special? The main ingredients are lamb, beef and pork, mixed in a specific ratio. The recipe includes salt, paprika, pepper, garlic, onion, coriander and other seasonings.

Throughout our visit – no matter the time of day – they had a line and people eating their dogs outside. It was a thing. Besides being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture.

Getting a hot day ‘all the way’ included fresh onions, fried onions, sweet mustard, remoulade sauce and ketchup. No ketchup for Eric. No sweet mustard for me. Loved the fried onions which added a bit of crunch. Yum.

We enjoyed the tour and the guide. He started this venture with a few like-minded friends, and they continue to grow it. His tour had good ratings and another good one from us.

Reykjavik, Iceland Winter 2024

That’s right……………we headed back to Iceland!

Eric found direct flights to Iceland from Orlando and after conferring with Adrienne, we found a week to head north.

So excited to be on another journey to one of my (current) top places to visit. In my excitement, forgot a few steps after landing……………….deplaning outside before catching a bus to the terminal. Had to dig out the scarves, gloves and headwear from the backpack!

Yep, a great way to get used to the chilly temps for us Floridans.

Going in November we got to see the beginning of Christmas displays.

We all were able to utilize carry-on luggage and a backpack (each) so no waiting at the luggage carousel.

Short walk to the BLUE rental car company and we were quickly on our 45-minute drive to Reykjavik. We rented an apartment and got really good directions, even though we went around the block a few times. OOps. There was a parking garage underneath the building and after a few trial & errors……. we got inside and parked.

The place was next door to Hotel Borg and the key box was in the opposite alley. Eric went upstairs where another key box happened to be located, and we procured both sets of keys!

Our place was the middle balcony overlooking a square.

We made the decision to pay for the prior night of our arrival thus ensuring we had immediate access upon arrival. Flights from the U.S. arrive very early Icelandic time. Five hours was the time difference from home. My body thought it was 3am.

Two bedrooms, a living area and a small kitchen was perfect for our needs.

First order of business was breakfast after dropping off luggage and no better place than right next door at Hotel Borg at their buffet. They had a variety of offerings but truly, I wanted the basics then some sleep. Two cups of coffee had absolutely no effect on my sleeping at that point.

Four hours of sleep truly made a difference for the afternoon plans……Sky Lagoon. Originally, it seemed a bit at odds to jump into water in Iceland but LOVE their thermal baths and lagoons.

This visit (yes, there is another one) was part of a package, but more on that in another post. Here are a few highlights:

Steaming water viewed after showering and putting on swimsuits.
Three delighted participants.
Eric leading the way into the main body of water.
Liquid refreshment.

Hour+ later we met at their bar for other nourishment.

An initial tasting of lamb stew – Icelandic lamb was the only reason I now enjoy lamb.

Even in this climate, I found flowers. The center flowers are related to cabbage and tolerate colder temps and looked great.

They were surrounded by a pink heather.

Even in their winter, we found plenty of activities and as long as you’re dressed in layers, you can brave almost anything here. Hang tight, more posts to come.

Bologna Food Tour

This is something very common for us – booking a food tour, especially when we stop at a new city for us. Why?

~you’re talking with a local that is typically passionate about their city.

~able to get local recommendations tailored to your wants.

~find those ‘hidden’ gems that aren’t in a guide book.

Eric does a LOT of research prior to our trips and reads LOTS of reviews for said tours. Occasionally we’ve gone back to revisit places that was on the tour because we enjoyed it so much. Now, we’ve also gone a bit crazy and done too many food tours (Lyon, France) during one visit – we learned.

This was our tour for Bologna.

What better way to start than with coffee and croissant. This is one of the only places in Bologna that roasts their own coffee beans.

Options for croissants were plain or creme.

Next up – pasta factory. Upstairs was where the pasta was being created.

At this time of the year, only one table occupied for pasta. At other times of the year, every available space in this room is full of pasta-making.

Enough of looking, let’s get some food! Eric and Adrienne were drooling at what was inside.

Part of this business was prepared food but the other side was fresh pasta for sale.

They had lots of goodies for sale. Yes, a few of them made the trip to Florida.

What did we pick up from this location? This delectable platter.

This is also where I was introduced to a dry Lambrusco – delicious!

A glass of that along with a plate of meats – I was happy.

Parmesan cheese with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar – perfect.

before sitting down to each these goodies, we walked through tight alleyways that were full of open-air markets. Notice those cheeses? The stickers (numbers) indicate how many months they have aged. They go up past what I captured in my photo.

This was also a great place to find this map and see where some of these culinary gifts come from.

It was f.i.n.a.l.l.y time to eat some of that pasta we saw being made earlier.

What better way than to close with some gelato? Sorry, no photos.

We had a great tour and enjoyed the introduction to Bologna.

San Lorenzo Marketplace

Technically speaking…………..this is considered two markets. There are a number of outside market stalls dating back to the Middle Ages. At that time, the market was located outside of the city walls but as the city continued to grow, it was moved inside the city and became more organized. We didn’t spend a great deal of time in this section. It seemed to be mostly about leather goods and we were here for the food.

In the early 20th century, the market underwent a major renovation, which saw the construction of the covered market hall that still stands today. The renovation helped to modernize the market and improve the shopping experience for visitors. The cast iron and glass structure recalls European architecture, most notably Parisan. But enough of the history, let’s get inside!

Always love the shops that feature local products. So many things to look at.

Some specialize strictly in meat.

If you want your meat to be prepped – here you go.

Then you have the cheese mongers. I mean, come on, where can you find cheeses like these in the states?

Couldn’t resist this shot with the baby sheep highlighting the milk used.

Mushrooms – N.E.V.E.R seen this many shrooms in one place. This shot was only a small portion of the food stall.

And the veggies. LOVE their veggies. Artichokes were in season and numerous times we found 3 sizes of this veggie and priced accordingly.

Almost forgot about the seafood. Indeed, I only captured one photo. Being so far inland, seafood was still available but nothing really unusual was seen.

Renovated in 2014 the upstairs area is a foodie’s delight. This new floor of the market is not only a hub for food but also for Italian culture and history.  Many of the specialty items represent a different method of production, dating back in time, calling upon old Italian cultural traditions. 

There’s plenty of seating, a team of workers clear and clean the tables and the stalls work together with an electronic system when your orders are ready to be picked up.

Let me share a few of the food stalls:

Wine, wine and more wine.

Pick your focaccia topped-bread which could be grilled or reheated.
Pick-up pre-packaged biscotti or select your own.

What did we eat?

Medley of fried seafood and fries.

Sometimes you just wanted a sandwich. Okay, it was me that wanted a sandwich.

And let’s not forget desserts. One time I got this cake, slightly warmed up. It was very good.

I chose the ice cream bar on a different day, with sliced almonds – excellent!

This turned into our ‘lunch’ choice a number of days. We could each pick up what our heart desired at that particular moment, to eat or drink. 🙂

They are actively working on incentives for locals to shop and eat at the marketplace. Things such as a discount card, discounted or free parking and special cooking events. I know one thing……….if we lived in Florence, we would be coming back – repeatedly.

The Duomo of Florence

Formally called the Cathedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, it is one of Italy’s largest churches. Gothic-style construction began in 1296 and was completed 1436. Here is a shot of the complex that hosts three buildings to include the church, the baptistry and the tower.

Adrienne and I got up early to walk a number of times for several reasons – both equally important. We wanted to get photos without dodging the multitudes of tourists and also walk off the abundance of indulgent calories we had partaken on the trip.

The first building on the site was built 393 AD and had since undergone a number of repairs but was crumbling with age. It was no longer able to serve the growing population of the city. The city council approved the new design two years before construction started for these structures.

The exterior is covered with marble panels in green, pink and white. It truly was magnicifant.

It is the largest brick dome ever constructed and the fifth largest dome in the world. It called for an octagonal dome higher and wider than any that had ever been built, with no external buttresses to keep it from spreading and falling under its own weight.

The use of buttresses was forbidden in Florence, as the style was favored by central Italy’s traditional enemies to the north.

Had a chance to pull in some flowers for one of my photos 🙂 from this outside cafe.

There was so much to see and I had waaaaay too many photos to curate. I tried to include some of my better ones.

We did go inside later when Eric joined us. While it was very nice inside, the grandeur seen outside seemed to overshadow the interior. The relative bareness of the church corresponds with the austerity of religious life.

This shot is from the back of the church, looking towards the alter.

Here’s an inside shot of the brick dome.

One last shot……..

The churches were meant to cause awe amongst the people if not instill a fear of god through story-telling. This was accomplished in Florence.

One morning during our early walks we came across this ‘charming’ sight. What? A pig? Local legend states that touching the snout will ensure another visit to the city. By the looks of this pig’s snout – they will be having a lot of repeat visitors. And yes, we also touched the statue. Adrienne and I will be back!

Most are so involved with touching the snout, I don’t believe they notice all of the other ‘critters’ in this sculpture. The more I circled it, the more I found. This is only a small sampling.

While TOTALLY different in materials and design both were interesting artwork found in the city called the birthplace of Renaissance.

Rome to Florence

All too soon, it was time to leave Rome and head towards our next stop – Florence, via train.

A few shots of the Italian countryside along our fast-paced journey.

Adrienne brought along a little something extra and it has continued to bring smiles. I found a (very) different item in Rome. It makes me smile whenever it shows up in my photos.

Our next apartment was another AirBNB rental.

Our first order of business was lunch. Our chosen destination was a local market located in the historic San Lorenzo marketplace, which opened in the spring of 2014 to celebrate the 140th anniversary of the iron & glass architectural building by a Florence designer. So sorry – that was quite a long run-on sentence.

The good thing about eating in a food market……………we can each chose our own type of food. Eric was hankering for seafood and picked up these dishes.

octopus & potatoes

seafood medley of shrimp, calamari & cuttlefish

Naturally a few oysters were purchased by Eric. I tried one – still not as good as the ones I tasted in the north of France last year.

I felt like a sandwich, accompanied with wine. I only expected to eat half of it. Nope, it was all gone when my wine was finished. The focaccia bread for my sandwich – absolutely delicious!

Topped it off with some gelato – which filled in the cracks. Coffee and strawberry were my flavors of choice.

After a short nap (I needed one!) we went in search of a ‘wine window’. What was that? exactly like what is sounds.

The tradition of wine windows dates back to the 16th century when aristocratic families were granted permission to sell the wine they produced in the countryside to consumers directly from their houses, without any middlemen or taxes. Cosimo de Medici, a clever banker and lord of Florence, was the mastermind behind this new sales practice.  The window below was fairly close to us.

The true genius of these wine windows came to light during the plague that hit Florence in the 17th century. With the city in the throes of a deadly epidemic, the wine windows proved an ingenious architectural solution that allowed commerce to continue without risking further contagion.

Wine windows were in use until the 1920s. But – as we are all well aware – , history repeated itself in 2020 with the onset of the most recent pandemic. Many savvy restaurateurs and bar owners were able to weather the storm by serving customers through these windows. It’s a fun way to drink some wine.

The full experience continued when we went inside in for dinner at Osteria Belle Donne. The kitchen offers traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes prepared with genuine and seasonal raw materials cooked according to ancient recipes. We started with a simple but very tasteful bruschetta – excellent way to clean your palate. We had bruschetta several times, but I believe this was the best of the best.

It was a nice evening for soup, soup and salad.

Loved the interior of the restaurant. An interesting ceiling, lined with plants and lights added to the ambience.

Eric needed more than soup and got the pasta with fresh truffles.

Notice the yellow flower on the table? They were very prevalent on our day of travel and were seen everywhere. Why? The yellow mimosa became the symbol of International Women’s Day in Italy and we were in Italy when celebrated. 🙂

Rome History – part 4, The Vatican

Vatican City – a landlocked independent country gaining independence from Italy in 1929. At 121 acres it is the smallest state in the world by area and population.

After stepping across the ‘boundary’ into this country, we came across the double-helix staircase. Eric assumed we were going down the staircase – no. You can see him in the blue shirt and backpack. He had to hurry back up to join the tour.

We stopped at this balcony to get a photo of St. Peter’s dome before exploring the treasures of the Vatican.

Our first little portico we stopped at had these statues.

This twisted archway was different and interesting.

Leading us to this rotunda of statues, with the dome reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome.

Everyone is always looking up but artwork also abounds on the floor – like this floral mosaic.

One hallway was dedicated to tapestries.

Right before we walked through the map room.

No photos are allowed within the Sistine Chapel. I searched on the internet and found this shot which I liked. A lot of story-telling going on and our tour guide educated us on the different panels before walking through. While we were there, prayers were given in several languages, making it a bit more realistic and special. The fame of the Sistine Chapel lies mainly in the frescoes that decorate the interior.

One of the functions of the Sistine Chapel is as a venue for the election of each successive pope in a conclave of the College of Cardinals. On the occasion of a conclave, a chimney is installed in the roof of the chapel, from which smoke arises as a signal. If white smoke, which is created by burning the ballots of the election, appears, a new Pope has been elected. If no candidate receives the required two-thirds vote, the cardinals send up black smoke—created by burning the ballots along with wet straw and chemical additives—it means that no successful election has yet occurred.

The last part of our tour was St Peter’s Basilica.  It is one of the most renowned works of Italian Renaissance architecture and the largest church in the world by interior measure.

The dome was closed for touring, but I could get a shot without showing (much) of the scaffolding.

Most of the alter was also blocked but I could squeeze in a tiny photo from the side.

St. Peter’s is regarded as one of the holiest Catholic shrines. It has been described as “holding a unique position in the Christian world” and as “the greatest of all churches of Christendom. There is sooooooo much to this place. It was one of our last activities in Rome and took me quite a while to go through the large number of photos I took.

A view of Rome from Vatican City

Rome History – part 3

Piazza Navona – a public open space in Rome. It was one of several that popped up when researching our trip. Later this day we had a tour booked for The Vatican, so we had free time to wander the historic streets, grab a cappuccino & croissant and soak in the ambience of Rome.

The space was initially used in the 1st century as the Stadium of Domitians. Ancient Romans came here to watch games. Following the Fall of Western Rome, the stadium fell into ruins and was quarried for building material. Little to nothing remains of that. It was re-energized in the 15th century when the city market was transferred here.

The primary reason on this day and time to visit was for the (3) fountains. We turned the corner and this was the first thing we saw – fountain was drained and work being done.

Bummer – this was going to be a wasted trip.

Nope – only one of the three fountains was not working. This was the centerpiece of the piazza.

Called the Fountain of Four Rivers and designed in 1651 to be representative of the spread of papal authority. There was so many details wrapped up in this fountain. You could keep circling and find more things during each circumference.

The four rivers represented the Nile (Africa), the Danube (Europe), the Ganges (Asia) and the Rio de la Plata (Americas).

Loved the horse peeking out through the portal.

The group LOVES when I take photos – not. They’re good sports, most of the time.

The third fountain was in the north part of the piazza, the Fountain of Neptune.

Yes, we did some people watching while eating our croissants and cappuccino. Neptune fighting the octopus was in front of us. Hard life – people-watching, enjoying a pastry, listening to the fountain’s water and soaking in the Italian sun. I could do this for months on end.

So many things going on with these fountains. You could literally do one post on each fountain and all of the symbolism. It was hard to capture the many different components, but I did like this sea creature.

There was a building in the middle of the piazza that individuals kept going into and thus we did our own exploring. Many people come just for the three fountains and miss this worthy, hidden gem in Rome. It was fascinating reading about it. The little bit of info below only scratch the surface of its stories.

This was a 17th century Baroque church, built on the site of a much older church dedicated to St. Agnes with research indicating this was the location she was martyred.

There are so many things to look at once you enter, but your eyes move upward towards the dome in the sanctuary.

The dome was designed for individuals to look up to heaven. The fresco in the cupola depicts the Apotheosis of st. Agnes and the four cardinal virtues: prudencejusticefortitude, and temperance. They form a virtue theory of ethics. All other virtues fall under them and hinge upon them.

The alterpieces all take the form of bas-reliefs or statues rather than paintings. Below is the statue of St. Agnes when she extinguishes the flames at her feet with prayers.

This altarpiece represents the Holy Family with little St. John the Baptist, Joseph & Mary and baby Jesus. There is a lot more to this, but it started getting complicated.

The inside of the church was surrounded by marble sculptural Baroque masterpieces, dedicated to individual martyred saints. Below was one of the seven immortalized in statue.

There was a shrine inside of the church for Saint Agnes, containing her skull and a marble relief. She was martyred at 13 when she refused to marry a pagan. She was condemned to death. You can see her skull in the marble box below her statue. No lie, it was kind of creepy.

While the stories being told inside this church was gruesome, it was a beautiful church. My photos do not do justice for the beauty contained within.

I want to leave you with this small ‘fountain’ located within this piazza. I assumed it was for pets to drink and stay hydrated.

That is until you stop the downward flow and this happens……..

Nice!

Rome history – part 2

I need to get my steps in. How – the Spanish steps of course……..135 to be exact.

The steps were built to navigate a steep slope between the Piazza di Spagna at the base and Piazza Trinità dei Monti church, at the top.

Maybe you noticed the polizia in the photo above? There were fines for those sitting down (250 euros) and heavier fines for damaging or dirtying the steps (400 euros).

There was a competition for design in 1717 and completed in 1725. They have been restored and renovated a number of times. Travertine stone, brick, marble and plaster make up the steps.

Notice who is missing? Glad he brought along the blue jacket – he’s easier to spot.

Why the ‘spanish’ steps? At the bottom was the Spanish Embassy. I read that at certain times of the year, planned decorations line the steps. Around Christmas-time a 19th century manger is displayed on the first landing. In the spring-time, pots of azaleas can been seen. Not quite spring – yet. Dang.

Another fountain was found at the bottom. The pope commissioned Pietro Bernini in 1623 to build the fountain as part of a prior Papal project to erect a fountain in every major piazza in Rome. The fountain was completed between 1627 and 1629.

According to legend, as the River Tiber flooded in 1598, water carried a small boat into the Piazza di Spagna. When the water receded, a boat was deposited in the center of the square, and it was this event that inspired Bernini’s creation.

Can anyone come to Rome without seeing the Coliseum? I think not.

It is the largest ancient amphitheater ever built and is still the largest standing Amphitheatre in the world, despite its age. Contruction begin in 72 AD and was completed in 80 AD. It could hold anywhere between 50K – 80K spectators at various points of history.

Entrance portals were numbered in the archway as seen below.

Yes, we were one of ‘those’ tourists, following our tour guide with a flag.

Part of our small-group tour include the underground of the coliseum. We saw a short film in an underground alcove, and it truly put you in the mindset of the gladiator’s journey coming into the coliseum. While some were fighting for sport, others were fighting for their life and freedom.

The Colosseum was built of travertine limestone, tuff (volcanic rock), and brick-faced concrete.  It was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles including animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Roman mythology, and briefly mock sea battles.

We had a bit of our own excitement during our tour. Notice the bouncing drops?


That’s right – hail. Below are some of the pellets that collected along our walkway. We were very lucky that when it started, we were heading underground.

Although substantially ruined by earthquakes and stone robbers, the Colosseum is still a renowned symbol of Imperial Rome.

Before exiting the coliseum, our tour guide brought us to another part of the building promising us a good photo spot. Here was one of the remaining gates into the city with the Palatine Hill behind it.

Last stop for this post………Trevi Fountain ‘Taming of the Waters’

At 86 feet high and 161 feet wide, it is the largest Baroque fountain in the city and one of the most famous. It is located at the junction of three roads and marks the terminal point of one of the aqueducts that supplied water to Rome for 400+ years.

As was common in Baroque times, a competition was held. Originally a Floratine won but public outcry gave the commission to a Roman, Nicola Salvi, who died before it was finished.

The work begun in 1732 and was finished in 1762. Four different sculptors were hired to complete the fountain and the majority was made from Travertine quarried near Tivoli, 22 miles east of Rome.

Behind the fountain is the  Palazzo Poli, a palace in Rome, altered in the 18th century to form the backdrop. There continues a tradition of coin tossing, using your right hand over the left shoulder. Estimates are 3000 euros are thrown daily into the fountain. The money is used to subsidize a supermarket for Rome’s poor.

A few more posts are coming before we head to Florence.

Rome History – Part 1

Staying in the city center had so many advantages. Walking to historic sites was the main one. Soooooo much history in this city and you never knew when you turned a corner if you were going to find more Roman ruins – we did, a lot.

We were headed towards the Panthenon and came across this church.

In the 8th century there was an oratory on this spot, but it wasn’t until the Dominicans took final possession of the property that a church was built in 1280. It was one of the very few examples of Gothic architecture in Rome. It was in the convent adjacent to this that in 1633 Galileo adjured his scientific thesis to save his life from the condemnation of the Holy Inquisition.

It was quietly beautiful inside. Since this is considered a minor basilica, there were no hordes of tourists.

In 1628 two almost identical organs were placed above the choirs. The one in my photo was looted then set on fire. The other organ was removed and used in a basilica elsewhere in Italy. Eventually both organs were replaced in the 1900s.

Below the table on the high altar is a 15th century sarcophagus of St. Catherine of Siena, minus her skull and a finger found in a basilica in Siena. Eric is in the foreground.

Notice the statue to the left of Eric above? It caught Eric’s attention with the amount of detail.

‘Christ carrying the Cross

Totally was not expecting this. There was a bit of rope stanchioning this off, but truly we were within a few feet of the statue.

This ‘find’ was so unexpected, it was a highlight of our time in Rome.

Leaving the church, we were presented with the back side of our next find.

The Pantheon

The date of construction is uncertain and debated. It was built on an earlier temple on private land, fire burnt it down (several times) and the present-day building was ordered by emperor Hadrian 126 AD. In 609 AD it became a Catholic church.

It is one of the best preserved Ancient Roman buildings in large part due to continuous use throughout history. That’s not to say pieces and parts weren’t removed for other purposes or metalwork melted down for armory.

Since the Renaissance it became a fashionable burial place for painters, composers and even two kings.

The dome of course is one of most amazing feats. After 2000 years it is still the largest un-reinforced concrete dome in the world, at 142 feet in height and 142 feet in diameter. The thickness varies from 21 feet at the base to less than four feet around the oculus. Various materials were used as aggregate and could be travertine, terracotta tiles and pumice or tufa (volcanic rock) at the top.

The top of the oculus has never been covered allowing rainfall through the ceiling onto the floor going into floor drains to promote runoff.

The oculus and entry door are the only natural sources of light.

The history of the building pulled me in and I spent way too much time on the web going through links to find more info.

Occasionally you needed a break from history, and we found some great spots to do just that, as you’ll see in my next post.