Tag: travel

Madrid 2025 – post 2

by ginnyinshanghai

Parque del Buen Retiro was our intended destination. Yes, it was a park. Our path took us past these pink blooming trees in the old city of Madrid. They lined several streets.

Most were younger trees, but occasionally we would pass one of these beauties. The gnarled truck and bark had its own attraction.

The park originally belonged to the Spanish monarchy until 1868 at which time it became a public park. It is considered one of the main attractions of the city, having architectural and landscape figures from the 7th to the 21st century.

Walking to the park, we came upon a traffic circle, surrounding the Puerta de Alcala. This gate was one of the five old royal gates that gave access to the city of Madrid.

The Retiro Park has seventeen entrances and we came through the ‘Door of Independence’. The park is 125 hectares and contains more than 15,000 trees. Loved seeing these ivy ‘balls’ on our walk towards the Galapagos Fountain. Most were fully grown, but I found this framework along the path that was waiting to be replanted.

Constructed in 1831, the locally named Galapagos fountain was not only commemorative and ornamental but also used for the water supply at that time.

At the top is a snail-shaped pump, with water cascading down to four children mounted on their own dolphins.

There are four more fountains below the dolphins representing two frogs and two Galapagos turtles, which have given it its popular name. Okay, got it now.

One last photo before moving on. 🙂 Yes, it was that bright and we needed sunglasses.

Next up was ‘The Pond’ with the Monument to King Alfonso XII in the background.

Rowboats could be rented for a small fee. But that’s not an activity for us. Sorry dear, I could see someone leaning to the side and ‘plop’, we’re in the water.

Along with recreational use, the pond also holds rowing and canoeing competitions. We found these cats sitting on the roof where the rowboats were stored. Guess they found a warm place for a nap.

The monument in the background of the pond was from a 1902 competition with the equestrian statue of the king at the top.

A pair of carved lions flank both stairways to the monument.

There was one more intriguing fountain that had to be seen before leaving……..the Fountain of the Fallen Angel. It has the reputation of being the only prominent sculpture dedicated to the devil in the world.

It stands at 666 meter above sea level. Really? Really. The first statement was questionable, but the 666 seems to be solid data.

Personally, I liked the creatures at the base of the Fallen Angel.

What would a garden post be without any photos of flowers. We found more of the pink blooming trees inside the park.

These white flowering trees drew me away from the main thoroughfare.

And behind them was a quiet spot for reflection and solitude.

Those two let me wander off and take my photos of flowers, unconcerned by my whereabouts.

My Icelandic wool friend has enjoyed being in Spain. He will pop in occasionally.

We’re ready for some food. Let’s see what Eric can find.

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – Post 1

by ginnyinshanghai

The journey began with an Uber to the airport. Thank goodness for these ride-share options. Otherwise, parking at the airport would be a huge financial shock upon return. Been there, done that.

Next stop……..The Club, MCO, for breakfast and drinks – coffee for me, not for the other two.

This adventure we used American Airlines – a first for us. Usually, Delta is the airline of choice, but a recent number of delays on other trips, led us to look for other options. We had a layover at Charlotte before going overseas.

We left the states and headed towards Spain.

Airline food is not usually photo worthy………but having real plates and silverware bumped it up a notch or two – just saying.

A glass of wine to help doze off.

But let’s get back to the main story……………….Espana!

Once we chose the country, then selected Madrid as our starting point the next decision was (1) north or (2) south. Eric ran into a couple from Spain several months ago and once he said we were ‘foodies’, they said no choice – go North. But let’s get back to Madrid………

As with most of our flights, landing in Europe occurs very, very, very early on their time. Arrival was scheduled for 5:30am. Let’s just say going through the Madrid Airport was a breeze. We kept walking, walking and more walking before we got to Customs – which was empty. Fastest we have ever gotten through!

We had reserved an AirBNB apartment in the old town of Madrid. We reserved it the night prior to our arrival in order to go straight there and nap. One of the wisest practices we started doing a number of years ago. It is so worth the extra dollars.

Instructions were fairly simple, but since we arrived in the dark, outside photos will come later. Here was the final barrier to bedtime.

A few quick photos before napping. We reserved a 2 bedroom, 2-bath apartment.

Small kitchen with everything necessary. All appliances were behind the white panel doors: fridge, disherwasher and the combo washer/dryer.

But the thing we were looking for…………….

What did the outside look like? Here’s a shot once the sun came up and we went walking. We are on floor 2 (not counting the bottom), corner apartment. Loved having the elevator. I will walk down the stairs, but walking upstairs with luggage is no fun.

The key code to open the building was the same key code to get into our place – sweet!

All were awake and ready to find lunch by 11:30am.

We have always enjoyed the European markets so Mercado de San Anton was locked and loaded in Eric’s phone – 1.1 km away, we can easily do that.

Walked in and this greeted you. Love it! Upstairs were the food stails.

I felt like a sandwich from this establishment. No, that is not a hotdog.

Spanish shaved ham, sundried tomatoes, parmasean crema with arugula was very delicious.

Adrioenne had no problem making her choice – octopus.

Eric ordered a few different things to share: scallops, cheese croquettes and oysters.

Add in local Sangria along with cider and your meal is complete.

Way more adventures to come. This day we took advantage of the ‘dry’ weather to walk more of the city. My next post will take you along our walk. The next day promised rain so that somewhat dictated our plans.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #7

by ginnyinshanghai

Besides the food, we had two traditional yet classic Icelandic experiences. First up, a thermal pool.

Sky Lagoon

Opened in 2021, this oceanside geothermal lagoon demonstrated the commitment to sustainability as their water sources is fueled by the country’s 600 natural hot springs. Their building techniques and building supplies were sourced intentionally and sustainable. BTW – almost every home in Iceland is heated with geothermal power.

Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich geothermal water is a beloved Icelandic tradition. We made two separate visits to the Sky Lagoon during our stay. Coming into the reception area you begin to soak in the ambience and relax.

There is ‘spa etiquette’ that everyone should be aware of and follow.

>Remove your shoes before entering the changing facilities.

>Locate a locker, store personal items inside, locking with your wristband that also serves to purchase food and refreshments.

>Shower your body, sans clothing with soap and warm water to keep the pools clean. Yes, some places have private showers, others do not. We have done both types. First time showering in front of other females felt odd, after that, no big deal. Think high school gym class when you had to shower……… only these are MUCH, MUCH, MUCH nicer showers!

>Put on your bathing suit before leaving the changing room to head to the geothermal water.

Find your spot to enjoy the warm waters and peaceful surroundings.

At the back of the above photo you can see a waterfall. We both enjoyed the spray. Me, not quite as close as Eric. 🙂

Earlier I mentioned ‘oceanside’………..the 75 metre infinity edge of the lagoon was a gathering spot for all.

Did I also mention they have a walk up/swim up bar? Your wristband serves as your payment method.

With your entrance, you are able to participate in ‘The Ritual’. This is an opportunity to slow down, take your time and experience a deeper healing journey through all of your senses.

Not going to lie. The only part of me that ‘plunged’ into the cold pool was the few inches up to my ankle. The photo on the right you can slightly see the rounded edge of the cold plunge spot.

Walking into the turf house, the next step was the sauna.

I could not spend many minutes in this part before I felt like was cooking.

This was a ‘cool’ spot. Ha, Ha! Mist sprays were slowly occurring as you walked into and out of this area.

Totally loved the next step in the ritual

They didn’t mind being in my photo.

Take as much time as you want to exfoliate.

You’re all salty, oily and it’s time to walk into the steam chamber.

Not too much to see in the steam room…………………….

You’re almost finished with the ritual and yes, slightly dehydrated.

Herbs in the elixir
Very tasty and refreshing drink.

Alas, time to brave the chilly air and winds to head back out to the geothermal lagoon.

What’s left to do after all that? Enjoy the relaxing pool. We visited this place twice during our visit. Below is a short video of the second visit – it was VERY windy (and I was in a protected area – Yikes!).

Would we do it again? A.b.s.o.l.u.t.e.l.y. Our first day in Iceland after arriving, we visited and our last full day in Iceland we went back again.

We exit the building and……………….

After some light refreshments to fuel and rehydrate, we drove the 15 minutes back to our apartment.

Oh man – wish I was back there now.

At the beginning I indicated we had 2 traditional Icelandic experiences. What was the other one?

Aurora Borealis – The Northern Lights

All our research indicated the best way to seeing the Northern Lights……booking a guided tour.

I follow several Instagrammers from Iceland and one company stood out – Artic Adventures. If your first foray with them doesn’t work out to see the Northern Lights, you can rebook another night, and another night, with your reservation good for 3 years (no refunds) until you see the lights.

Their reviews were fabulous. Rebooking did occur and still the reviews had positive things to say. We booked them. We also choose a day early in our vacation in case it didn’t work out. And it didn’t. If cloud cover or rain is forecast, the tour is canceled by 6:15pm (pick up was 8:30pm) and you can rebook. We looked at our remaining days in Iceland and the Friday night looked the best option – not great, but better than the other days of the week.

Here’s the radar that night. Our guide (also the driver) felt he could find us a window north of the city.

Our group of 18 was in an elongated super jeep. One couple on the tour had rebooked 2 other times that week and been canceled due to cloud cover. One criteria was to get away from the city and subsequent light pollution. We drove 40+ minutes before he stopped, talked with other guides and pulled off onto dirt roads. Yes, we needed the super jeep.

I had done my reading and truly did understand the lights tended to be ‘white fuzz’ to the naked eye. The camera on your smart phone could filter out that light and still give you a decent photo.

My first viewing, not really impressed.

Second photo I could faintly see pink and green.

Okay, things are getting a bit better. Definitely seeing streaks of green.

And then the money shot.

I will continue to be on the hunt for ‘dancing’ northern lights, but I’m good for now.

I plan to be back. Why? The unparalleled scenery, the abundant natural beauty, the thermal pools, the delicious food, the wide-open spaces and vast areas of untouched wilderness.

On my first visit in 2019, I found this street art on one of their buildings. I was hoping we could find it again. We did. This is why we travel:

We need to collect -great- moments. This is my last post for the 2024 Icelandic visit. Hope you enjoyed our activities and learned a bit more about the land of Fire & Ice.

Ginny, Eric & Adrienne

Reykjavik Winter #6

by ginnyinshanghai

More food and a f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.c dining experience.

This was really one of the few times we stayed at an apartment and did no cooking or noshing. We primarily used our kitchen space for morning coffee and drinks.

Why was that? Soooooo many food options within easy walking distance! Let’s continue to explore the Icelandic food scene.

The Laundrymat Cafe

First meal of the day – breakfast. This establishment was approx. 1/2 block from our apartment. Easy walking even in windy conditions.

It had your basic breakfast options. That’s okay, that’s what we wanted.

Maybe the blood mary wasn’t the norm……………….but who’s judging.

What was in the basement, yep, a laundromat.

This place was quite popular and by the time we left, fairly full. And it was another windy day in Iceland – just saying. Some days, you needed to hold onto your hat!

Old Iceland Restaurant

Established in 2014, their focus was to highlight Icelandic produce. They use herbs and spices from the mountains of Iceland. A lunch option one afternoon was this spot. On the outside it was a quiet unassuming place, but their small plates had quite an artistic flair and flavors were punched up.

Between all of us, every meal someone ordered soup. Soup is good for the soul and for the body – another way to keep warm. Of course, you needed to accompany it with bread. 🙂

Shellfish Soup

Soup only goes so far and occasionally heartier choices was needed.

Cured salmon, rye bread crumble, smoked roe and dill oil.
Arctic char fish, confit potatoes and roasted peppers with accompanying greens.

Posthous Food Hall

This was a great stop if we needed a little something to share, a chance to duck in out of the rain & wind and still enjoy the vibe of Reykjavik.

This sushi bento box was our pick one evening. We had a large lunch but wanted a little bit something that night. This was perfect to share. By the time we left Iceland, I believe we had tasted something from most of the food stations inside this establishment! LOVE food halls!

Kopar – Reykjavik’s Old Harbor

At Kopar, they aim to provide an Icelandic dining experience that pays homage to traditional ingredients, while also surprising their guests. In their kitchen, the ingredients provide the inspiration, and the chefs follow their years of experience to deliver something new. It works!

Soups! Perfect for a rainy wintry evening.

Creamy tomato soup with aioli
Rock crab soup

Followed that with Artic char fish with tasty veggies and of course sauces. Add a nice bottle of red wine – you’re good.

At the beginning of this post, I mentioned a fantastic dining experience. Here you go.

Matur Og Drykkur

This was our ‘splurge’ meal experience.

Truthfully, I didn’t ask Eric the price because I didn’t want to know the price. They serve a 10-course dinner experience offering the freshest and best ingredients at any given time and create a unique dining experience. It was worth it!

The first four courses were these small bites.

Left – cheese and rowanberries Right – halibut and angelica

Next two plates served are below. Not enough to fill you up, leaving room for the remaining courses.

Left – monkfish liver spread with dulse seaweed crackers. Right – rutabaga and goat cheese tartlets

This next food to arrive was one of the most unassuming and amazing things we ate that evening. The chefs forage wild herbs and mushrooms as well as collaborate with local farmers to obtain the best ingredients. The brown bowls were a concentrated (locally-foraged) mushroom broth with a touch of soy sauce and vinegar. OMG!!! More great food arrived but the simplicity, the taste and the preparation for this course………to this day, we are still talking about it. At this point, I could have asked for another bowl of this heavenly broth and been done for the evening. Yes, it was that good.

When I saw this on the prix fix menu, it made me nervous. As long as I blocked out what it was……………..it was really tasty. All was gone off my plate.

Lamb heart, malt, black pressed garlic and kohlrabi

This was probably my least favorite bite and the only thing I didn’t finish. The flavors were fine but not appealing to me.

Smoked haddock, onion, celeriac mash and rye bread crumbles.

The next protein course I enjoyed, but…………….I was starting to get full.

Reindeer, beetroot, reindeer moss and pomace.

Before any food arrived after we sat down, our server told us about a ‘chef special’. She got half-way through the description, and I already knew we would be saying ‘Yes!’.

Fire!

Then this was brought to our table. So really, instead of a 10-course meal, we had an 11-course meal with the special.

Cod head – poached then roasted before coming to the table. Yes, I tried some – but I was getting full. The other two, cleaned all of the meat from it. The waitress commented they truly knew how to pick every last morsel from the bones.

We have eaten a LOT of food. But wait, there’s more. The final dessert plates.

Bottom left – Artic thyme, crowberries and cold pressed rapeseed oil. Bottom Right – Kleinur, caramelized whey and cardamon. Top – It wasn’t on the menu, but came to the table. Tasted like pressed caramelized sugar.

Upon entering the dining area, this area is set up, kind of like a shrine. Why? The red cookbook inspired the restaurant and its offerings. It was the first ever published cookbook printed in Icelandic, 1922. It means Food and Drink – hence the name of the restaurant.

These recipes were old and traditional yet simple recipes using ingredients available at that time.

Would I do it again – absolutely! We were stuffed but happy during our walk back to our apartment.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #5

by ginnyinshanghai

The downtown part of Reykjavik was an easy city to walk and I’ve always felt safe. I split off from the other two to re-visit some of my favorite places. Sun Voyager was one of those.

The city of Reykjavik wanted to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city with a new outdoor sculpture. A contest was held and Jon Gunnar Arnason’s concept was chosen with the sculpture unveiled in 1990.

It is constructed of stainless steel and sits on a circle of granite slabs. The sculptor wanted everyone who came to Reykjavik to see this metal ship and imagine where they could travel with it. It is located to the north of the capital on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

The artist intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of a Viking ship honoring Iceland’s history and sea-faring tradition. This shot gives you a small part of Reykjavik’s cityscape.

While the sculpture sits along the water, a short distance away was one of their iconic venues – The Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center.

Construction started 2007 in the area but was temporarily abandoned in 2008 when Iceland’s financial crisis took hold. The original plan was to include a hotel, retail & office space and apartments. Later that year, the governor decided to fully fund the half-built concert hall with the other elements on hold.

The first concert played in the building was The Iceland Symphany Orchestra in 2011. This group eventually made The Harpa their home.

The glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and consists of 714 LED lights.

They have concerts, exhibitions, children’s events, conferences, markets and more. I looked at their upcoming event schedule and man (!) there are some events I wish I was there to see.

Inside was a gift shop and cafe with seating along the glass walls. It is on my ever-changing bucket list to attend a concert when visiting Reykjavik.

In front of the venue was this statue.

The Musician. This Icelandic sculpture was at the previous home of the Icelandic Orchestra and when this became their home base, they brought it with them. Nice.

What is behind The Harpa? This yellow lighthouse and entrance into the port. These were the same waters the Sun Voyager oversees.

Also gave me the opportunity for un obstructed view of the water and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the western part of Iceland. A part of Iceland that is still on my bucket list to explore.

We drove through part of it in May but at that point, we were nearing the end of our Ring Road adventure and ready to get back to Reykjavik. The Snaefellsjokull volcano resides here and on clear days can be seen from Reykjavik, 75 miles away.

There was one thing happening in Reykjavik that I haven’t mentioned – Iceland Airwaves Music Festival.

The first festival was held in 1999 as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at Reykjavik Airport. In 2018, 50% of the performers were female, making the festival one of the first to include gender equality in its lineup. Their main focus is showcasing new music, both Icelandic and international. We did look at ticket prices, but they seemed steep. One evening Eric heard a group from the Faroe Islands in a local bar. He really enjoyed them.

What else is really cool (ha, ha) about Iceland this time of year? Christmas!

They don’t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the states, so there’s no back& forth or discussion when Christmas lights should (or should not) go up. They were wrapping the trees in the square in front of us during our visit. You can barely see the worker in the upper left corner in a high reach finishing up this tree.

I was hoping to see the Icelandic Christmas Cat or Yule Cat as mentioned in their folklore, but alas did not. We did see the statue in November 2019 if you read those blog posts…………………or goggle it.

I want to end this post with flowers. Some were seen in the greenhouse we visited, and others were part of the landscape. Enjoy.

Still have a few more Icelandic posts to write.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #3

by ginnyinshanghai

Let’s talk (and eat) Icelandic food!

Before our ‘Funky History Walking Tour’ we stopped in at a nearby cafe for breakfast. We needed to fuel up before walking the town.

Cafe Loki – homemade traditional Icelandic food in the heart of Reykjavik.

Bagel with cream cheese and chives for me.
Homemade rye bread with egg and herring or smoked fish for Adrienne.
Homemade rye bread with cold-smoked trout for Eric.

Posthus Matholl Food Hall

Nestled in the heart of the city, it was more than your average food hall. It stands as a testament to the city’s culinary diversity and vibrancy. Locals and visitors like ourselves continued to converge upon this eating establishment when you need a little something to nibble on.

Another advantage to a food hall…..it allows us each to order different types of foods. Can’t believe that Eric ordered a hamburger! The fries were some of the best. We kept sneaking some throughout the evening.

PIzza! That was my choice. It looked good, smelled good and was mighty tasty.

Adrienne ordered salmon. She won according to Eric. She said the fish was cooked perfectly.

Wine and beer (for me) accompanied our meal that evening.

Even though it was cold (and windy), lots of walking, shopping and touring continued. A nearby brewery was a good stop to warm up and grab some salty snacks.

We had stopped in during previous visits and our beer selections were local brews. Every food stop always included a bottle of Icelandic water no matter where we landed, and the brewery was no exception. Ice was rarely available as typical of European locales. That little bowl of salty goodness – delicious! We were fighting over the last few crumbs after getting a second bowl.

Here they are solving world problems………………or the next place to eat. 🙂 That afternoon, we had the place to ourselves.

A misty sprinkle turned into a solid rain and we ducked into this establishment along one of the main roads – Messinn Seafood Restaurant. Five years ago this was part of a walking food tour and we hadn’t returned, until now. They specialize in ‘fish pans’ which are served with freshly cooked fish straight from the kitchen, together with butter-fried potatoes and vegetables.

Eric choose the ‘Cod Tung’ fish pan which are really fish ‘cheeks’. He’s seen similar along the Gulf coast but the cold water makes the meat fatty – which he loves.

While Adrienne selected Artic Char fish pan.

The damp weather had me eyeing their langoustine fish soup topped with a dollop of cream – perfect for the day. Can’t forget the bread basket.

The last restaurant for this post was literally around the corner from our apartment – Icelandic Street Food.

Screenshot

It was billed as flavorful food for a reasonable price in downtown Reykjavik offering traditional Icelandic meat soup. Their website indicates it was the first fast food concept in Iceland with traditional Icelandic food. It is a family-owned business with recipes made from their grandmother.

Order was placed at the counter with your name called once they were ready to serve you. The vats of soup were right along the bar – which was our chosen seating, right in the middle of the action.

Eric photo-bombed my shot as we were waiting. I selected the Einstok White Ale that evening.

An option was to have your soup served in a bread bowl…..which I did for my order of lamb soup which also included potatoes, carrots and root vegetables.

Eric selected the Shellfish soup with the broth made from langoustine and included Icelandic scallops and shrimps.

Did I mention that refills were free?

Along one wall a small self-serving station had this notice:

Yikes! It was a zoo. They couldn’t make the waffles fast enough. Customers were coming to the counter as they came off the iron – but were told to wait until it came to the station. A sprinkle of sugar or fruit jam was available to top them and add a touch of sweetness.

This was the night originally booked for our Northern LIghts tour – not happening.

They sent us a cancellation email 2+ hours before departure and the opportunity to rebook. Looking at the upcoming week’s forecast, we choose Friday evening, our last night in Iceland. We’ll see – or not.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024, #2

by ginnyinshanghai

Booking with AirBNB, sets you up to receive ‘suggestions’ for other activities. Eric got a notice for this local company ‘Funky Iceland’ and booked us the ‘Funky History Walk with a Local Storyteller’. Their guides take you through 1150 years of Icelandic history and the fight for surival, freedom and tolerance. These values continue to shape its liberal attitudes today. BTW – the rainbow painted on the street is considered ‘street art’. More on that further in the post.

We met at the Viking statue, in front of the Hallgrimskirkja church. We walked the area earlier and I shot these night-time photos of the church.

The tour allowed us to go inside and the history lessons started. The vaulted ceiling was truly awe-inspiring.

Turn around 180 degrees, look up to see their massive organ.

With all of the tourists around, there was a small chapel in the corner for individual solitude and prayers.

Interesting thing about their seating. The backs can be moved to face the pulpit or face the organ, locking in place for musical concerts.

Across the street was our next stop……a sculpture garden holding the work of Einer Jonsson. Also a great spot to capture the church from another angle.

He is often called the first Icelandic sculptor, gaining international attention. The Icelandic Parliament agreed to build a home for him and his wife in exchange for the donation of his collection after his death in 1954. Walking the gardens was free for all to visit, containing 20+ pieces of his art.

In honor of the upcoming holiday season………

We continued the tour through nearby residential areas and I came across street art or murals that caught my eye. Most references to street art date to 2015 when Iceland Airwaves/Uran nation collaborated for ‘Wall Poetry’. Not exactly true as street art was firmly entrenched as of 2009. ‘Tagging and vandalism occurs everywhere, but street art has much more structure around its concept.

Some are a bit more abstract than others. Some are commissioned and many are on private property.

Check the internet as there are guided and self-guided tours of Reykjavik Street art.

As we meandered to the bottom of the hill, the destination was City Hall that housed a giant relief of Iceland.

Alas, we walked in, and it was gone. There were chairs and a runway set up for a future event. The map sets upon rollers and can be rolled into a holding space when events were planned. I did my own internet research and discovered the map is based upon 1948 U.S. Army map series and was started in 1985. It is composed of 1mm thick cardboard cut along the contour lines of the maps. The are glued, stapled or nailed as needed.

Found this photo on the internet after a lot of searching since we didn’t see it in person.

What we did encounter was a protest! Really? Really!. A quiet (indoor) spot for the guide to talk history kept getting louder and full of small children. Then the parents brought out instruments of noise for their children – whatever they obviously had at home. We asked one of the adults what was going on……………………….schoolteachers were protesting for their wages. Power to the people!

The media showed up and was doing a few interviews.

It got too loud for conversation, so we headed for our last stop, an Icelandic tradition…….Icelandic hotdogs. This spot is the most ‘famous’ location for hot dogs. Yep, it is outside in a small square. What makes their hot dogs special? The main ingredients are lamb, beef and pork, mixed in a specific ratio. The recipe includes salt, paprika, pepper, garlic, onion, coriander and other seasonings.

Throughout our visit – no matter the time of day – they had a line and people eating their dogs outside. It was a thing. Besides being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture.

Getting a hot day ‘all the way’ included fresh onions, fried onions, sweet mustard, remoulade sauce and ketchup. No ketchup for Eric. No sweet mustard for me. Loved the fried onions which added a bit of crunch. Yum.

We enjoyed the tour and the guide. He started this venture with a few like-minded friends, and they continue to grow it. His tour had good ratings and another good one from us.

Ginny

Reykjavik, Iceland Winter 2024

by ginnyinshanghai

That’s right……………we headed back to Iceland!

Eric found direct flights to Iceland from Orlando and after conferring with Adrienne, we found a week to head north.

So excited to be on another journey to one of my (current) top places to visit. In my excitement, forgot a few steps after landing……………….deplaning outside before catching a bus to the terminal. Had to dig out the scarves, gloves and headwear from the backpack!

Yep, a great way to get used to the chilly temps for us Floridans.

Going in November we got to see the beginning of Christmas displays.

We all were able to utilize carry-on luggage and a backpack (each) so no waiting at the luggage carousel.

Short walk to the BLUE rental car company and we were quickly on our 45-minute drive to Reykjavik. We rented an apartment and got really good directions, even though we went around the block a few times. OOps. There was a parking garage underneath the building and after a few trial & errors……. we got inside and parked.

The place was next door to Hotel Borg and the key box was in the opposite alley. Eric went upstairs where another key box happened to be located, and we procured both sets of keys!

Our place was the middle balcony overlooking a square.

We made the decision to pay for the prior night of our arrival thus ensuring we had immediate access upon arrival. Flights from the U.S. arrive very early Icelandic time. Five hours was the time difference from home. My body thought it was 3am.

Two bedrooms, a living area and a small kitchen was perfect for our needs.

First order of business was breakfast after dropping off luggage and no better place than right next door at Hotel Borg at their buffet. They had a variety of offerings but truly, I wanted the basics then some sleep. Two cups of coffee had absolutely no effect on my sleeping at that point.

Four hours of sleep truly made a difference for the afternoon plans……Sky Lagoon. Originally, it seemed a bit at odds to jump into water in Iceland but LOVE their thermal baths and lagoons.

This visit (yes, there is another one) was part of a package, but more on that in another post. Here are a few highlights:

Steaming water viewed after showering and putting on swimsuits.
Three delighted participants.
Eric leading the way into the main body of water.
Liquid refreshment.

Hour+ later we met at their bar for other nourishment.

An initial tasting of lamb stew – Icelandic lamb was the only reason I now enjoy lamb.

Even in this climate, I found flowers. The center flowers are related to cabbage and tolerate colder temps and looked great.

They were surrounded by a pink heather.

Even in their winter, we found plenty of activities and as long as you’re dressed in layers, you can brave almost anything here. Hang tight, more posts to come.

Ginny

Bologna Food Tour

by ginnyinshanghai

This is something very common for us – booking a food tour, especially when we stop at a new city for us. Why?

~you’re talking with a local that is typically passionate about their city.

~able to get local recommendations tailored to your wants.

~find those ‘hidden’ gems that aren’t in a guide book.

Eric does a LOT of research prior to our trips and reads LOTS of reviews for said tours. Occasionally we’ve gone back to revisit places that was on the tour because we enjoyed it so much. Now, we’ve also gone a bit crazy and done too many food tours (Lyon, France) during one visit – we learned.

This was our tour for Bologna.

What better way to start than with coffee and croissant. This is one of the only places in Bologna that roasts their own coffee beans.

Options for croissants were plain or creme.

Next up – pasta factory. Upstairs was where the pasta was being created.

At this time of the year, only one table occupied for pasta. At other times of the year, every available space in this room is full of pasta-making.

Enough of looking, let’s get some food! Eric and Adrienne were drooling at what was inside.

Part of this business was prepared food but the other side was fresh pasta for sale.

They had lots of goodies for sale. Yes, a few of them made the trip to Florida.

What did we pick up from this location? This delectable platter.

This is also where I was introduced to a dry Lambrusco – delicious!

A glass of that along with a plate of meats – I was happy.

Parmesan cheese with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar – perfect.

before sitting down to each these goodies, we walked through tight alleyways that were full of open-air markets. Notice those cheeses? The stickers (numbers) indicate how many months they have aged. They go up past what I captured in my photo.

This was also a great place to find this map and see where some of these culinary gifts come from.

It was f.i.n.a.l.l.y time to eat some of that pasta we saw being made earlier.

tortellini in broth
spinach noodle lasagna & pasta bolognese

What better way than to close with some gelato? Sorry, no photos.

We had a great tour and enjoyed the introduction to Bologna.

Ginny

San Lorenzo Marketplace

by ginnyinshanghai

Technically speaking…………..this is considered two markets. There are a number of outside market stalls dating back to the Middle Ages. At that time, the market was located outside of the city walls but as the city continued to grow, it was moved inside the city and became more organized. We didn’t spend a great deal of time in this section. It seemed to be mostly about leather goods and we were here for the food.

In the early 20th century, the market underwent a major renovation, which saw the construction of the covered market hall that still stands today. The renovation helped to modernize the market and improve the shopping experience for visitors. The cast iron and glass structure recalls European architecture, most notably Parisan. But enough of the history, let’s get inside!

Always love the shops that feature local products. So many things to look at.

Some specialize strictly in meat.

If you want your meat to be prepped – here you go.

Then you have the cheese mongers. I mean, come on, where can you find cheeses like these in the states?

Couldn’t resist this shot with the baby sheep highlighting the milk used.

Mushrooms – N.E.V.E.R seen this many shrooms in one place. This shot was only a small portion of the food stall.

And the veggies. LOVE their veggies. Artichokes were in season and numerous times we found 3 sizes of this veggie and priced accordingly.

Almost forgot about the seafood. Indeed, I only captured one photo. Being so far inland, seafood was still available but nothing really unusual was seen.

Renovated in 2014 the upstairs area is a foodie’s delight. This new floor of the market is not only a hub for food but also for Italian culture and history.  Many of the specialty items represent a different method of production, dating back in time, calling upon old Italian cultural traditions. 

There’s plenty of seating, a team of workers clear and clean the tables and the stalls work together with an electronic system when your orders are ready to be picked up.

Let me share a few of the food stalls:

Wine, wine and more wine.

Pick your focaccia topped-bread which could be grilled or reheated.
Pick-up pre-packaged biscotti or select your own.

What did we eat?

Crostini, (top) smoked cheese and mushrooms, (bottom), smoked salmon and garlic aioli.
Crostini, (left) egg and shaved truffles, (right) bruschetta with shaved truffles.

Medley of fried seafood and fries.
Poke bowl


Soup dumplings

Sometimes you just wanted a sandwich. Okay, it was me that wanted a sandwich.

And let’s not forget desserts. One time I got this cake, slightly warmed up. It was very good.

I chose the ice cream bar on a different day, with sliced almonds – excellent!

This turned into our ‘lunch’ choice a number of days. We could each pick up what our heart desired at that particular moment, to eat or drink. 🙂

They are actively working on incentives for locals to shop and eat at the marketplace. Things such as a discount card, discounted or free parking and special cooking events. I know one thing……….if we lived in Florence, we would be coming back – repeatedly.

Ginny