Tag: travel

San Sebastian 2025 – Post 1

by ginnyinshanghai

I mentioned in the previous post, we were going to hit a few other cities. Our next stop is going to be San Sebastian. But first, we rented a car so it was back to the airport. There was a little mix-up with our rental car reservation, but after some time on the phone with the original agent…….we were able to get a car.

It’s approximately four hours to drive to San Sebastian, not including a stop for lunch. We got a bit hungry and pulled off for a restaurant that the internet showed was open for lunch. No such luck. Actually, we walked most of the town and all of the (few) places to eat were shuttered closed, not opening until 4pm. We poked our heads into an open butcher/charcutier place and the owner said he could make us some ham sandwiches, in ten minutes. Sold! We picked up a bag of ruffles chips, some sodas and our hunger was satisfied. Actually, they were pretty darn good sandwiches.

And before you know it……………….

But why San Sebastian? It is in Basque country, and lies on the coast of Bay of Biscay, twelve miles from the Spain/France border.

The first evidence of stationary human presence dates to 22,000 BC. There were Roman settlements around 200 AD. No written records are known until 1014, a monastery. The area has been conquered, destroyed, rebuilt, burnt to the ground with periods of instability and war.

San Sebastian was one of the earliest towns hit by the 1918 Influenza epidemic. Poverty, famine, repression and smuggling all had a part here. This town didn’t seem to have a chance, but yet it is thriving now.

So again, why visit? San Sebastian is renowned for its Basque cuisine. The city and the surrounding area is home to a high concentration of restaurants with Michelin stars.

The city is also known for its pintxos (small plate dishes similar to tapas) which are found along the streets of the Old Town. That is why we are here!

We are staying in the ‘old town’ of San Sebastian. We are one block down from #8, Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro. Definitely in the center of the old town.

It is a pedestrian zone so after parking underground, we walked to #13. Adrienne was pointing to her bedroom.

A short tour of our apartment for the next several days:

Did a quick unpacking them headed out for some pintoxs. Eric had done his homework and had downloaded a map. First stop – patatas bravas, basically cubed potatoes. What makes this establishment’s dish special is the three sauces on top. I love me some sauces. Add in some sangria and we were good to go.

Next up, Atari for braised beef cheeks and seared foie gras. Loved the mashed potatoes under the beef cheek. They said the foie gras was the best they had eaten (and they have tasted a lot).

Two more stops before I called it a night. Right after we got in, they got inundated with locals, so we only tried the risotto.

Next door was a place specializing in seafood, but what caught Eric’s eye was the oysters.

A few skewers of food were ordered with the octopus on the right my choice. The other two skewers were ‘The Original Basque Pintxo – Spanish Gildas’.

What makes the skewers (anchovy, peppers and olive) on the left special? It can be categorized as the first ever Basque pintxo. Its strong, salty and pickled flavor bursts in your mouth like no other. The trick is to eat it all at once. They accepted and mastered the challenge.

Next up? Bedtime for me. After escorting me back to our place, they went back out for me food and drink. I’m not really sure who was watching out for each other. Ha!

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – post 5

by ginnyinshanghai

Mercado = Markets

When we were at Barcelona several years ago, we stopped at markets that not only had produce for purchase but also places to eat inside the market. We loved that! If possible, we definitely stop at those places for eating. One of the best reasons the three of us enjoy these………we can each order the type of food we desire and are not limited to one restaurant’s menu.

We’ve already hit one such market in Madrid, but we have found several more. Let’s start with Mercado San Ildefonso.

They are billed as the first street food market in Spain inspired by the street food markets of London, Singapore and New York. Opening in 2014 it’s near where the traditional food market was located until 1970 when that was demolished

It offers 18 stalls and three drink bars on three floors devoted to different gourmet products. There are no boxes of vegetables, no fresh fish or meat to take home but an establishment to take a break during a shopping day or meet friends after work.

Enough talk, let’s see the food. I ordered the chicken skewers and fries.

Eric ordered a few things to share:

We enjoyed our meal, but so far, the first market we visited on Day 1 beats this.

We were splitting our vacation between three cities in Spain and before taking off to northern Spain, we wanted to stop at Mercado de san Miguel. We had been told that this was mainly a tourist market that locals no longer visit. Well, we’re tourists. Let’s go!

This market is a monument to Spanish cuisine located in the heart of Madrid. They welcome more than 7 million visitors each year. 100+ years have passed since this was inaugurated as a food market. This historic building allows visitors to take a tour of the flavors from each of the corners of Spain.

You know what? It was full of tourists – but we enjoyed it. 🙂 It had a ‘vibe’ going and after finding seats……it was a fun experience. People were continually moving around so after finding a table spot for the three of us – we were set.

Mostly I sat at our spot, trying to keep our stools, but upon occasion, I left them and did some exploring on my own inside the market.

Let me show you some of the vendors I came across. Perfect little sausages to pop in your mouth with their own holder.

Always enjoy a good fish display.

Several different types of paella.

First time seeing octopus on skewers.

There were a few stalls that had oysters, all from France.

Having the little figures in front of their cheese displays made it much easier to decipher the beginning ingredient of their displayed cheese.

There was at least one vendor that had sweets after you finished your savory choices. A great way to top off your meal – just saying.

But what did we eat? Let’s see………………

Oysters from two different vendors.

Octopus, very tasty and not chewy at all.

One of the last dishes was the paella with the squid ink. It turned your tongue black.

But we ultimately finished with Ibersian ham (of course) with nuts and crackers.

Yes, we can say the place was full of tourists but I would still recommend anyone visiting Madrid to stop by and pick up some goodies. We would definitely stop by again.

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – post 4

by ginnyinshanghai

We did some historic sites while in Madrid. One such site was the Royal Palace of Madrid.

It is the official royal residence of the Spanish royal family, although now only used for state ceremonies. The palace has 1,450,000 sq foot of floor space and contains 3418 rooms, making it the largest royal palace in Europe. Versailles is bigger, if you count the gardens.

If the Spanish king is in the building, a second flag would be flown.

The palace is on the site of a by-gone Muslin era fortress constructed in the 9th century. While there had been a number of expansions and alterations through the years, the palace burned down in 1734. A new palace was built from scratch on the same site beginning in 1738.

The grand staircase is composed of a single piece of San Augustin marble and upon reaching tyhe top stair, turning around you are greeted with this imposing site.

A close-up of their coat of arms…..

Carved lions guard the statue on both sides.

The frescos on the wall above the grand staircase depicts Religion protected by Spain. Everyone room had fantastic murals on the ceilings. It really was almost too much to take in. One could not absorb the beauty of the palace.

There is so much opulence that after a while the only difference is the overriding color in each room. We saw the King’s chambers, then the queen’s chambers. Clocks were a thing to be collected so I included a gallery of (some) of the numerous clocks we encountered.

The chandeliers were amazing, some rooms having more than one. Here’s a small gallery.

The banquet room was also imposing.

Which led us to their ‘pantry’ highlighting some of their porcelain and silver serving pieces.

The throne room and jewel room were equally imposing.

We enjoyed the tour, especially the part where we got to ‘skip’ the line with our tour guide.

Next door is the Almudena Cathedral, I mean, literally right next door from the Royal Palace. It is the Catholic cathedral in Madrid and the seat of the archdiocese of Madrid. It seems to have been built on the site of a medieval mosque that was destroyed in 1083. The statue is a moument to Pope John Paul II.

These doors were extremely tall. Hard to see that in my photo, but maybe you can guess the scale from the photo above.

It was started in 1883 but not completed until 1993 so it is a ‘newer’ church, with some modern touches. This was evident in the stained glass windows.

While no service was occurring, there was someone playing their organ. The organ was installed in 1999 after being made in Barcelona.

Since that doesn’t happen very often, I included a short video – which also gives a wider perspective of this modern church.

I totally loved the ceilings, they were so colorful and unexpected but inspired by Moorish designs. Here is the nave and the area above the pulpit.

Such amazing colors.

The Cathedral Crypt can be accessed via the Cathedral or a door along the side of the building, which is how we entered.

It is the largest crypt in Spain and completed in 1911. The chapels inside contain the tombs of important 19th century families.

This was the first time we have seen flowers on the crypts. Once you look at the dates, then you truly realize this was much younger than most other crypts we have visited in Europe. For those, no family members are around to place flowers.

Some visitors feel the crypt is more beautiful than the cathedral and in some respects more well decorated. There are five naves and 20 chapels. The number of columns with trees, plants and flowers was amazing.

Typically, I enjoy the really old churches, cathedrals and basilicas more than the modern ones, but exploring both of these buildings was a nice juxtaposition of architedture.

We need more food!

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – Post 3

by ginnyinshanghai

Food, glorious food – that’s what we visited for. And maybe, just maybe some wine.

Eric had read that Bodego de la Ardosa was a ‘do not miss’ spot in the old part of Madrid. We stepped away from our apartment, traversed a number of narrow streets while dodging some rain drops and FOUND IT!

It was established in 1892 and has a unique look and feel and it is always busy. It is a place that locals visit which was evident on our visit.

A lady sitting at a barrel table took pity on us and invited us to that table as she was leaving soon. She also recommended a few things to try – which we did. The tortilla patata was amazing. The kitchen brings it to the bar steaming hot, waiters cut slices and serve it. It was a perfect size for sharing as we had more things coming.

And oh boy! One of the tastiest things arrived next: braised beef cheeks. We had just enough of the above dish left to dip into the gravy below. Yum! We wished we had more bread for dipping.

Fried calamari and Iberian ham rounded out our selections.

We were all very happy. I didn’t get photos of our libations, but we had sangria, vermuth and several glass of local red wine.

I mentioned we were ‘lucky’. This was true in more ways than one. They had a maximum capacity of 40, which was plastered outside their door. During that evening the bar seemed to empty out, but new diners coming in had to wait outside until others left. Annnnnddddd it was now raining. What a yucky night to be stuck outside.

But back to the story………where were they? Some patrons were directed to their ‘back room’, only accessible by dunking under the bar. Really not the best photo but hopefully you can get the idea.

The doorway in the background below was right before you had to duck down to crawl through.

What? Yep, on a repeat visit we got placed in the ‘inner sanctum’. The front room had walls covered with bottles and memorabilia, as did the backroom.

It was finally time for us to leave and get out in the rain. Adrienne was the only one prepared with an umbrella.

We booked a food tour on our first full day in Madrid. Yep, everything thus far occured on the day of our arrival – after a nap. 🙂

They specialize in small group tours and as you can see above they have an umbrella company with tours in 80+ locaitons. In fact a family on our tour had done their ‘Paris Secret Food Tour’ and liked it so well, they booked with the same company for Madrid.

The group met our tour guide In Puerto de Sol, a major metro hub. It was also the location of Madrid’s bear statue, representing Madrid’s coat of arms. Tourists have noticed a discoloration on the bear’s hind leg and tail and subsequently believe that touching the statue will bring good luck – a myth totally made up by tourists.

In this plaza was also this huge sign – Tio Pepe. It’s a 100+ years old advertisement for sherry that has now turned into a cultural icon. At one time this square was filled with advertising signs and commercial billboards and this is the only remaining sign. The people of Madrid are passionate about the sign and its location. It’s staying for now.

This food tour was more than just food. Our guide, Jo, also included a good bit of history. Plaza Mayor – a major public square in the heart of Madrid, which dates back to the 15th century. It is a vibrant hub for cultural activities, festivals and public events. This is where the people go for New Year’s Eve, watching the clock tower with projections among other events happening that night. Our tour guide said ‘Think of NYC Times Square’.

We started with a hot beverage and pastry. Eric got the molten chocolate drink. Me, a cappuccino.

This is where we first learned about the bronze placques occasionally seen on the sidewalks.

Bronze pavement plaques are given by the city of Madid to denote a business or restaurant has continually worked for 100+ years. Once our guide pointed them out, we started to notice them. Even the restaurant at the top of this post had one – which we didn’t notice until our second visit.

Our first stop had some awesome sweets in their display cases. We might have to come back here on our own later in the week.

It was time to introduce meat to our food tour. We walked to Bartolome‘.

Loved the different types of ham – don’t ask me to identify them, way too many. The bread dipped in the (delicious!!!) olive oil helped break up the fat left on your tongue.

In the hallway to their storage, our guide pointed out these hanging hams. She also explained the cone at the bottom was to catch fat as it continued to dry.

And, there was another bronze pavement plaque.

Our next step was something that eric had been dreaming about……….

Calamares sandwich.

We walked into a long skinny establishment and took up places along the bar.

With a little big of magic (and hot oil), these calimare turned into delicious bites of goodness. We each got half a sandwich and that was enough. A plate of fried potatoes, a beverage of your choice and we all dug in. Yes, I enjoyed the sandwich also.

Two more places to go, can we make it? We will give it our best.

This next stop was very much a local stop. And it was about the vermuth.

First up was the glass of local vermuth. It wasn’t bad. It starts as a white wine and gains a darker color through infusion of caramel and various other spices and botanicals, often with a slice of orange and/or olive in your glass. It can be enjoyed straight up or on the rocks. At 15% alcohol, they consider it a perfect aperitif before a meal.

A plate of fried pork bits and other assorted veggies rounded out the food offerings.

Those little sausages below were very tasty.

Finally made it to our last stop:

Once again, it was a variety of tasting plates, but this round included a few bites of seafood.

One of the pair of young ladies on our tour was celebrating her birthday and we all shared some of her birthday cake and another sweet goodie. Personally, I liked the cake on the left best.

It was raining fairly steady, so when the rest of the group departed, we stayed for more wine and talk.

Which also gave a chance to grab a photo with the tour guide, Jo.

It was a really good tour, even with dodging the rain. We were all prepared with umbrellas – after Eric and I bought one each at a convenience store………..

It was waaaaaaaay too much food for me, but it well received by the other two. 🙂 More walking and adventures are coming.

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – post 2

by ginnyinshanghai

Parque del Buen Retiro was our intended destination. Yes, it was a park. Our path took us past these pink blooming trees in the old city of Madrid. They lined several streets.

Most were younger trees, but occasionally we would pass one of these beauties. The gnarled truck and bark had its own attraction.

The park originally belonged to the Spanish monarchy until 1868 at which time it became a public park. It is considered one of the main attractions of the city, having architectural and landscape figures from the 7th to the 21st century.

Walking to the park, we came upon a traffic circle, surrounding the Puerta de Alcala. This gate was one of the five old royal gates that gave access to the city of Madrid.

The Retiro Park has seventeen entrances and we came through the ‘Door of Independence’. The park is 125 hectares and contains more than 15,000 trees. Loved seeing these ivy ‘balls’ on our walk towards the Galapagos Fountain. Most were fully grown, but I found this framework along the path that was waiting to be replanted.

Constructed in 1831, the locally named Galapagos fountain was not only commemorative and ornamental but also used for the water supply at that time.

At the top is a snail-shaped pump, with water cascading down to four children mounted on their own dolphins.

There are four more fountains below the dolphins representing two frogs and two Galapagos turtles, which have given it its popular name. Okay, got it now.

One last photo before moving on. 🙂 Yes, it was that bright and we needed sunglasses.

Next up was ‘The Pond’ with the Monument to King Alfonso XII in the background.

Rowboats could be rented for a small fee. But that’s not an activity for us. Sorry dear, I could see someone leaning to the side and ‘plop’, we’re in the water.

Along with recreational use, the pond also holds rowing and canoeing competitions. We found these cats sitting on the roof where the rowboats were stored. Guess they found a warm place for a nap.

The monument in the background of the pond was from a 1902 competition with the equestrian statue of the king at the top.

A pair of carved lions flank both stairways to the monument.

There was one more intriguing fountain that had to be seen before leaving……..the Fountain of the Fallen Angel. It has the reputation of being the only prominent sculpture dedicated to the devil in the world.

It stands at 666 meter above sea level. Really? Really. The first statement was questionable, but the 666 seems to be solid data.

Personally, I liked the creatures at the base of the Fallen Angel.

What would a garden post be without any photos of flowers. We found more of the pink blooming trees inside the park.

These white flowering trees drew me away from the main thoroughfare.

And behind them was a quiet spot for reflection and solitude.

Those two let me wander off and take my photos of flowers, unconcerned by my whereabouts.

My Icelandic wool friend has enjoyed being in Spain. He will pop in occasionally.

We’re ready for some food. Let’s see what Eric can find.

Ginny

Madrid 2025 – Post 1

by ginnyinshanghai

The journey began with an Uber to the airport. Thank goodness for these ride-share options. Otherwise, parking at the airport would be a huge financial shock upon return. Been there, done that.

Next stop……..The Club, MCO, for breakfast and drinks – coffee for me, not for the other two.

This adventure we used American Airlines – a first for us. Usually, Delta is the airline of choice, but a recent number of delays on other trips, led us to look for other options. We had a layover at Charlotte before going overseas.

We left the states and headed towards Spain.

Airline food is not usually photo worthy………but having real plates and silverware bumped it up a notch or two – just saying.

A glass of wine to help doze off.

But let’s get back to the main story……………….Espana!

Once we chose the country, then selected Madrid as our starting point the next decision was (1) north or (2) south. Eric ran into a couple from Spain several months ago and once he said we were ‘foodies’, they said no choice – go North. But let’s get back to Madrid………

As with most of our flights, landing in Europe occurs very, very, very early on their time. Arrival was scheduled for 5:30am. Let’s just say going through the Madrid Airport was a breeze. We kept walking, walking and more walking before we got to Customs – which was empty. Fastest we have ever gotten through!

We had reserved an AirBNB apartment in the old town of Madrid. We reserved it the night prior to our arrival in order to go straight there and nap. One of the wisest practices we started doing a number of years ago. It is so worth the extra dollars.

Instructions were fairly simple, but since we arrived in the dark, outside photos will come later. Here was the final barrier to bedtime.

A few quick photos before napping. We reserved a 2 bedroom, 2-bath apartment.

Small kitchen with everything necessary. All appliances were behind the white panel doors: fridge, disherwasher and the combo washer/dryer.

But the thing we were looking for…………….

What did the outside look like? Here’s a shot once the sun came up and we went walking. We are on floor 2 (not counting the bottom), corner apartment. Loved having the elevator. I will walk down the stairs, but walking upstairs with luggage is no fun.

The key code to open the building was the same key code to get into our place – sweet!

All were awake and ready to find lunch by 11:30am.

We have always enjoyed the European markets so Mercado de San Anton was locked and loaded in Eric’s phone – 1.1 km away, we can easily do that.

Walked in and this greeted you. Love it! Upstairs were the food stails.

I felt like a sandwich from this establishment. No, that is not a hotdog.

Spanish shaved ham, sundried tomatoes, parmasean crema with arugula was very delicious.

Adrioenne had no problem making her choice – octopus.

Eric ordered a few different things to share: scallops, cheese croquettes and oysters.

Add in local Sangria along with cider and your meal is complete.

Way more adventures to come. This day we took advantage of the ‘dry’ weather to walk more of the city. My next post will take you along our walk. The next day promised rain so that somewhat dictated our plans.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #7

by ginnyinshanghai

Besides the food, we had two traditional yet classic Icelandic experiences. First up, a thermal pool.

Sky Lagoon

Opened in 2021, this oceanside geothermal lagoon demonstrated the commitment to sustainability as their water sources is fueled by the country’s 600 natural hot springs. Their building techniques and building supplies were sourced intentionally and sustainable. BTW – almost every home in Iceland is heated with geothermal power.

Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich geothermal water is a beloved Icelandic tradition. We made two separate visits to the Sky Lagoon during our stay. Coming into the reception area you begin to soak in the ambience and relax.

There is ‘spa etiquette’ that everyone should be aware of and follow.

>Remove your shoes before entering the changing facilities.

>Locate a locker, store personal items inside, locking with your wristband that also serves to purchase food and refreshments.

>Shower your body, sans clothing with soap and warm water to keep the pools clean. Yes, some places have private showers, others do not. We have done both types. First time showering in front of other females felt odd, after that, no big deal. Think high school gym class when you had to shower……… only these are MUCH, MUCH, MUCH nicer showers!

>Put on your bathing suit before leaving the changing room to head to the geothermal water.

Find your spot to enjoy the warm waters and peaceful surroundings.

At the back of the above photo you can see a waterfall. We both enjoyed the spray. Me, not quite as close as Eric. 🙂

Earlier I mentioned ‘oceanside’………..the 75 metre infinity edge of the lagoon was a gathering spot for all.

Did I also mention they have a walk up/swim up bar? Your wristband serves as your payment method.

With your entrance, you are able to participate in ‘The Ritual’. This is an opportunity to slow down, take your time and experience a deeper healing journey through all of your senses.

Not going to lie. The only part of me that ‘plunged’ into the cold pool was the few inches up to my ankle. The photo on the right you can slightly see the rounded edge of the cold plunge spot.

Walking into the turf house, the next step was the sauna.

I could not spend many minutes in this part before I felt like was cooking.

This was a ‘cool’ spot. Ha, Ha! Mist sprays were slowly occurring as you walked into and out of this area.

Totally loved the next step in the ritual

They didn’t mind being in my photo.

Take as much time as you want to exfoliate.

You’re all salty, oily and it’s time to walk into the steam chamber.

Not too much to see in the steam room…………………….

You’re almost finished with the ritual and yes, slightly dehydrated.

Herbs in the elixir
Very tasty and refreshing drink.

Alas, time to brave the chilly air and winds to head back out to the geothermal lagoon.

What’s left to do after all that? Enjoy the relaxing pool. We visited this place twice during our visit. Below is a short video of the second visit – it was VERY windy (and I was in a protected area – Yikes!).

Would we do it again? A.b.s.o.l.u.t.e.l.y. Our first day in Iceland after arriving, we visited and our last full day in Iceland we went back again.

We exit the building and……………….

After some light refreshments to fuel and rehydrate, we drove the 15 minutes back to our apartment.

Oh man – wish I was back there now.

At the beginning I indicated we had 2 traditional Icelandic experiences. What was the other one?

Aurora Borealis – The Northern Lights

All our research indicated the best way to seeing the Northern Lights……booking a guided tour.

I follow several Instagrammers from Iceland and one company stood out – Artic Adventures. If your first foray with them doesn’t work out to see the Northern Lights, you can rebook another night, and another night, with your reservation good for 3 years (no refunds) until you see the lights.

Their reviews were fabulous. Rebooking did occur and still the reviews had positive things to say. We booked them. We also choose a day early in our vacation in case it didn’t work out. And it didn’t. If cloud cover or rain is forecast, the tour is canceled by 6:15pm (pick up was 8:30pm) and you can rebook. We looked at our remaining days in Iceland and the Friday night looked the best option – not great, but better than the other days of the week.

Here’s the radar that night. Our guide (also the driver) felt he could find us a window north of the city.

Our group of 18 was in an elongated super jeep. One couple on the tour had rebooked 2 other times that week and been canceled due to cloud cover. One criteria was to get away from the city and subsequent light pollution. We drove 40+ minutes before he stopped, talked with other guides and pulled off onto dirt roads. Yes, we needed the super jeep.

I had done my reading and truly did understand the lights tended to be ‘white fuzz’ to the naked eye. The camera on your smart phone could filter out that light and still give you a decent photo.

My first viewing, not really impressed.

Second photo I could faintly see pink and green.

Okay, things are getting a bit better. Definitely seeing streaks of green.

And then the money shot.

I will continue to be on the hunt for ‘dancing’ northern lights, but I’m good for now.

I plan to be back. Why? The unparalleled scenery, the abundant natural beauty, the thermal pools, the delicious food, the wide-open spaces and vast areas of untouched wilderness.

On my first visit in 2019, I found this street art on one of their buildings. I was hoping we could find it again. We did. This is why we travel:

We need to collect -great- moments. This is my last post for the 2024 Icelandic visit. Hope you enjoyed our activities and learned a bit more about the land of Fire & Ice.

Ginny, Eric & Adrienne

Reykjavik Winter #6

by ginnyinshanghai

More food and a f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.c dining experience.

This was really one of the few times we stayed at an apartment and did no cooking or noshing. We primarily used our kitchen space for morning coffee and drinks.

Why was that? Soooooo many food options within easy walking distance! Let’s continue to explore the Icelandic food scene.

The Laundrymat Cafe

First meal of the day – breakfast. This establishment was approx. 1/2 block from our apartment. Easy walking even in windy conditions.

It had your basic breakfast options. That’s okay, that’s what we wanted.

Maybe the blood mary wasn’t the norm……………….but who’s judging.

What was in the basement, yep, a laundromat.

This place was quite popular and by the time we left, fairly full. And it was another windy day in Iceland – just saying. Some days, you needed to hold onto your hat!

Old Iceland Restaurant

Established in 2014, their focus was to highlight Icelandic produce. They use herbs and spices from the mountains of Iceland. A lunch option one afternoon was this spot. On the outside it was a quiet unassuming place, but their small plates had quite an artistic flair and flavors were punched up.

Between all of us, every meal someone ordered soup. Soup is good for the soul and for the body – another way to keep warm. Of course, you needed to accompany it with bread. 🙂

Shellfish Soup

Soup only goes so far and occasionally heartier choices was needed.

Cured salmon, rye bread crumble, smoked roe and dill oil.
Arctic char fish, confit potatoes and roasted peppers with accompanying greens.

Posthous Food Hall

This was a great stop if we needed a little something to share, a chance to duck in out of the rain & wind and still enjoy the vibe of Reykjavik.

This sushi bento box was our pick one evening. We had a large lunch but wanted a little bit something that night. This was perfect to share. By the time we left Iceland, I believe we had tasted something from most of the food stations inside this establishment! LOVE food halls!

Kopar – Reykjavik’s Old Harbor

At Kopar, they aim to provide an Icelandic dining experience that pays homage to traditional ingredients, while also surprising their guests. In their kitchen, the ingredients provide the inspiration, and the chefs follow their years of experience to deliver something new. It works!

Soups! Perfect for a rainy wintry evening.

Creamy tomato soup with aioli
Rock crab soup

Followed that with Artic char fish with tasty veggies and of course sauces. Add a nice bottle of red wine – you’re good.

At the beginning of this post, I mentioned a fantastic dining experience. Here you go.

Matur Og Drykkur

This was our ‘splurge’ meal experience.

Truthfully, I didn’t ask Eric the price because I didn’t want to know the price. They serve a 10-course dinner experience offering the freshest and best ingredients at any given time and create a unique dining experience. It was worth it!

The first four courses were these small bites.

Left – cheese and rowanberries Right – halibut and angelica

Next two plates served are below. Not enough to fill you up, leaving room for the remaining courses.

Left – monkfish liver spread with dulse seaweed crackers. Right – rutabaga and goat cheese tartlets

This next food to arrive was one of the most unassuming and amazing things we ate that evening. The chefs forage wild herbs and mushrooms as well as collaborate with local farmers to obtain the best ingredients. The brown bowls were a concentrated (locally-foraged) mushroom broth with a touch of soy sauce and vinegar. OMG!!! More great food arrived but the simplicity, the taste and the preparation for this course………to this day, we are still talking about it. At this point, I could have asked for another bowl of this heavenly broth and been done for the evening. Yes, it was that good.

When I saw this on the prix fix menu, it made me nervous. As long as I blocked out what it was……………..it was really tasty. All was gone off my plate.

Lamb heart, malt, black pressed garlic and kohlrabi

This was probably my least favorite bite and the only thing I didn’t finish. The flavors were fine but not appealing to me.

Smoked haddock, onion, celeriac mash and rye bread crumbles.

The next protein course I enjoyed, but…………….I was starting to get full.

Reindeer, beetroot, reindeer moss and pomace.

Before any food arrived after we sat down, our server told us about a ‘chef special’. She got half-way through the description, and I already knew we would be saying ‘Yes!’.

Fire!

Then this was brought to our table. So really, instead of a 10-course meal, we had an 11-course meal with the special.

Cod head – poached then roasted before coming to the table. Yes, I tried some – but I was getting full. The other two, cleaned all of the meat from it. The waitress commented they truly knew how to pick every last morsel from the bones.

We have eaten a LOT of food. But wait, there’s more. The final dessert plates.

Bottom left – Artic thyme, crowberries and cold pressed rapeseed oil. Bottom Right – Kleinur, caramelized whey and cardamon. Top – It wasn’t on the menu, but came to the table. Tasted like pressed caramelized sugar.

Upon entering the dining area, this area is set up, kind of like a shrine. Why? The red cookbook inspired the restaurant and its offerings. It was the first ever published cookbook printed in Icelandic, 1922. It means Food and Drink – hence the name of the restaurant.

These recipes were old and traditional yet simple recipes using ingredients available at that time.

Would I do it again – absolutely! We were stuffed but happy during our walk back to our apartment.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #5

by ginnyinshanghai

The downtown part of Reykjavik was an easy city to walk and I’ve always felt safe. I split off from the other two to re-visit some of my favorite places. Sun Voyager was one of those.

The city of Reykjavik wanted to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city with a new outdoor sculpture. A contest was held and Jon Gunnar Arnason’s concept was chosen with the sculpture unveiled in 1990.

It is constructed of stainless steel and sits on a circle of granite slabs. The sculptor wanted everyone who came to Reykjavik to see this metal ship and imagine where they could travel with it. It is located to the north of the capital on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

The artist intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of a Viking ship honoring Iceland’s history and sea-faring tradition. This shot gives you a small part of Reykjavik’s cityscape.

While the sculpture sits along the water, a short distance away was one of their iconic venues – The Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center.

Construction started 2007 in the area but was temporarily abandoned in 2008 when Iceland’s financial crisis took hold. The original plan was to include a hotel, retail & office space and apartments. Later that year, the governor decided to fully fund the half-built concert hall with the other elements on hold.

The first concert played in the building was The Iceland Symphany Orchestra in 2011. This group eventually made The Harpa their home.

The glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and consists of 714 LED lights.

They have concerts, exhibitions, children’s events, conferences, markets and more. I looked at their upcoming event schedule and man (!) there are some events I wish I was there to see.

Inside was a gift shop and cafe with seating along the glass walls. It is on my ever-changing bucket list to attend a concert when visiting Reykjavik.

In front of the venue was this statue.

The Musician. This Icelandic sculpture was at the previous home of the Icelandic Orchestra and when this became their home base, they brought it with them. Nice.

What is behind The Harpa? This yellow lighthouse and entrance into the port. These were the same waters the Sun Voyager oversees.

Also gave me the opportunity for un obstructed view of the water and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the western part of Iceland. A part of Iceland that is still on my bucket list to explore.

We drove through part of it in May but at that point, we were nearing the end of our Ring Road adventure and ready to get back to Reykjavik. The Snaefellsjokull volcano resides here and on clear days can be seen from Reykjavik, 75 miles away.

There was one thing happening in Reykjavik that I haven’t mentioned – Iceland Airwaves Music Festival.

The first festival was held in 1999 as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at Reykjavik Airport. In 2018, 50% of the performers were female, making the festival one of the first to include gender equality in its lineup. Their main focus is showcasing new music, both Icelandic and international. We did look at ticket prices, but they seemed steep. One evening Eric heard a group from the Faroe Islands in a local bar. He really enjoyed them.

What else is really cool (ha, ha) about Iceland this time of year? Christmas!

They don’t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the states, so there’s no back& forth or discussion when Christmas lights should (or should not) go up. They were wrapping the trees in the square in front of us during our visit. You can barely see the worker in the upper left corner in a high reach finishing up this tree.

I was hoping to see the Icelandic Christmas Cat or Yule Cat as mentioned in their folklore, but alas did not. We did see the statue in November 2019 if you read those blog posts…………………or goggle it.

I want to end this post with flowers. Some were seen in the greenhouse we visited, and others were part of the landscape. Enjoy.

Still have a few more Icelandic posts to write.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #3

by ginnyinshanghai

Let’s talk (and eat) Icelandic food!

Before our ‘Funky History Walking Tour’ we stopped in at a nearby cafe for breakfast. We needed to fuel up before walking the town.

Cafe Loki – homemade traditional Icelandic food in the heart of Reykjavik.

Bagel with cream cheese and chives for me.
Homemade rye bread with egg and herring or smoked fish for Adrienne.
Homemade rye bread with cold-smoked trout for Eric.

Posthus Matholl Food Hall

Nestled in the heart of the city, it was more than your average food hall. It stands as a testament to the city’s culinary diversity and vibrancy. Locals and visitors like ourselves continued to converge upon this eating establishment when you need a little something to nibble on.

Another advantage to a food hall…..it allows us each to order different types of foods. Can’t believe that Eric ordered a hamburger! The fries were some of the best. We kept sneaking some throughout the evening.

PIzza! That was my choice. It looked good, smelled good and was mighty tasty.

Adrienne ordered salmon. She won according to Eric. She said the fish was cooked perfectly.

Wine and beer (for me) accompanied our meal that evening.

Even though it was cold (and windy), lots of walking, shopping and touring continued. A nearby brewery was a good stop to warm up and grab some salty snacks.

We had stopped in during previous visits and our beer selections were local brews. Every food stop always included a bottle of Icelandic water no matter where we landed, and the brewery was no exception. Ice was rarely available as typical of European locales. That little bowl of salty goodness – delicious! We were fighting over the last few crumbs after getting a second bowl.

Here they are solving world problems………………or the next place to eat. 🙂 That afternoon, we had the place to ourselves.

A misty sprinkle turned into a solid rain and we ducked into this establishment along one of the main roads – Messinn Seafood Restaurant. Five years ago this was part of a walking food tour and we hadn’t returned, until now. They specialize in ‘fish pans’ which are served with freshly cooked fish straight from the kitchen, together with butter-fried potatoes and vegetables.

Eric choose the ‘Cod Tung’ fish pan which are really fish ‘cheeks’. He’s seen similar along the Gulf coast but the cold water makes the meat fatty – which he loves.

While Adrienne selected Artic Char fish pan.

The damp weather had me eyeing their langoustine fish soup topped with a dollop of cream – perfect for the day. Can’t forget the bread basket.

The last restaurant for this post was literally around the corner from our apartment – Icelandic Street Food.

Screenshot

It was billed as flavorful food for a reasonable price in downtown Reykjavik offering traditional Icelandic meat soup. Their website indicates it was the first fast food concept in Iceland with traditional Icelandic food. It is a family-owned business with recipes made from their grandmother.

Order was placed at the counter with your name called once they were ready to serve you. The vats of soup were right along the bar – which was our chosen seating, right in the middle of the action.

Eric photo-bombed my shot as we were waiting. I selected the Einstok White Ale that evening.

An option was to have your soup served in a bread bowl…..which I did for my order of lamb soup which also included potatoes, carrots and root vegetables.

Eric selected the Shellfish soup with the broth made from langoustine and included Icelandic scallops and shrimps.

Did I mention that refills were free?

Along one wall a small self-serving station had this notice:

Yikes! It was a zoo. They couldn’t make the waffles fast enough. Customers were coming to the counter as they came off the iron – but were told to wait until it came to the station. A sprinkle of sugar or fruit jam was available to top them and add a touch of sweetness.

This was the night originally booked for our Northern LIghts tour – not happening.

They sent us a cancellation email 2+ hours before departure and the opportunity to rebook. Looking at the upcoming week’s forecast, we choose Friday evening, our last night in Iceland. We’ll see – or not.

Ginny