Reykjavik Winter 2024 #5

The downtown part of Reykjavik was an easy city to walk and I’ve always felt safe. I split off from the other two to re-visit some of my favorite places. Sun Voyager was one of those.

The city of Reykjavik wanted to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city with a new outdoor sculpture. A contest was held and Jon Gunnar Arnason’s concept was chosen with the sculpture unveiled in 1990.

It is constructed of stainless steel and sits on a circle of granite slabs. The sculptor wanted everyone who came to Reykjavik to see this metal ship and imagine where they could travel with it. It is located to the north of the capital on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

The artist intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of a Viking ship honoring Iceland’s history and sea-faring tradition. This shot gives you a small part of Reykjavik’s cityscape.

While the sculpture sits along the water, a short distance away was one of their iconic venues – The Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center.

Construction started 2007 in the area but was temporarily abandoned in 2008 when Iceland’s financial crisis took hold. The original plan was to include a hotel, retail & office space and apartments. Later that year, the governor decided to fully fund the half-built concert hall with the other elements on hold.

The first concert played in the building was The Iceland Symphany Orchestra in 2011. This group eventually made The Harpa their home.

The glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and consists of 714 LED lights.

They have concerts, exhibitions, children’s events, conferences, markets and more. I looked at their upcoming event schedule and man (!) there are some events I wish I was there to see.

Inside was a gift shop and cafe with seating along the glass walls. It is on my ever-changing bucket list to attend a concert when visiting Reykjavik.

In front of the venue was this statue.

The Musician. This Icelandic sculpture was at the previous home of the Icelandic Orchestra and when this became their home base, they brought it with them. Nice.

What is behind The Harpa? This yellow lighthouse and entrance into the port. These were the same waters the Sun Voyager oversees.

Also gave me the opportunity for un obstructed view of the water and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the western part of Iceland. A part of Iceland that is still on my bucket list to explore.

We drove through part of it in May but at that point, we were nearing the end of our Ring Road adventure and ready to get back to Reykjavik. The Snaefellsjokull volcano resides here and on clear days can be seen from Reykjavik, 75 miles away.

There was one thing happening in Reykjavik that I haven’t mentioned – Iceland Airwaves Music Festival.

The first festival was held in 1999 as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at Reykjavik Airport. In 2018, 50% of the performers were female, making the festival one of the first to include gender equality in its lineup. Their main focus is showcasing new music, both Icelandic and international. We did look at ticket prices, but they seemed steep. One evening Eric heard a group from the Faroe Islands in a local bar. He really enjoyed them.

What else is really cool (ha, ha) about Iceland this time of year? Christmas!

They don’t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the states, so there’s no back& forth or discussion when Christmas lights should (or should not) go up. They were wrapping the trees in the square in front of us during our visit. You can barely see the worker in the upper left corner in a high reach finishing up this tree.

I was hoping to see the Icelandic Christmas Cat or Yule Cat as mentioned in their folklore, but alas did not. We did see the statue in November 2019 if you read those blog posts…………………or goggle it.

I want to end this post with flowers. Some were seen in the greenhouse we visited, and others were part of the landscape. Enjoy.

Still have a few more Icelandic posts to write.

Iceland Ring Road – back to Reykjavik

We had two choices to head back. One, go over the mountain pass which was the shorter route. Two, follow the coastline which would be longer. Overnight Eric got an email from the rental car company and sent me this text.

We had just been on all of those roads. Yikes. We wanted a safe journey. We went with option two – follow the coastline.

We had two additional planned stops for the Snaefellsnes peninsula. First up, a lava cave, Vatneshellir.

It is one of Iceland’s older lava tubes that can be explored and was formed during an eruption 8000 years ago. Here’s a schematic of our path. We entered where the lava tube reaches the surface with a short stairway to the smaller chamber on the left of the snapshot below.

Our guide pointed out some rock formations at the end of the smaller chamber.

Also pointed out the remains of an arctic fox that got curious and then couldn’t get out.

This crack in the ceiling is a good thing. Really? The guide said these cracks allows for shifting rock and prevents the lava cave from falling in on itself. Okay, I guess.

Here is a shot of the middle chamber after we retraced our steps. These lava caves were created when during an eruption, a river of molten rock begins to cool from outside in. The effect left a crust of flowing lava and a hollow tube.

He pointed our several colors in the rocks. red = iron, yellow = Sulphur and green = copper.

One last chamber to explore required navigating this spiral staircase downward.

Our view of the last chamber…………before shutting off all of the lights to ‘feel’ total darkness. Got to say, I wasn’t surprised when this happened (we had a warning) since every cave tour I’ve been on, the guide always does this. It is VERY dark.

To get out, you had to retrace your steps. All in all, the tour was an hour, we had 14 in our group, a nice stop. BTW – in addition to the helmets, each person was issued a small flashlight on a lanyard for the duration of the tour.

At the top I said we had two planned stops on the peninsula. Next up was a black church – Budakirkja. It is popular with tourists for a few reasons, one of which is the color – black. The black is pitch, used to protect the wood during winter.

Why so important? There’s a story…………..

It was built by a Swedish barn merchant using his own money and consecrated in 1703. Over time the church fell into disrepair and a royal letter in 1816 made it official it was no longer considered a church. In the mid 19th century, a wealthy widow changed that. On a spring day, she was working nearby and suddenly was overcome with fatigue, laid down and fell asleep. A man came to her in a dream and wanted her to take up the challenge of rebuilding. She woke up and realized it was the original Swedish merchant. She accepted the challenge and in 1847 she applied to have the building decreed but was refused. She appealed to the King of Denmark, who gave his blessing. She is one of those buried in the nearby cemetery.

The church is not open for tours, but local events are held here throughout the year. They have had people from around the world plan their weddings here. I found this photo online on their website. Before plans are made, guests are made aware there is (1) no heat, (2) no facilities and (3) holds generally 50 guests.

So, what is next……………head back to Reykjavik. But not before seeing their only native mammal, the artic fox – IN The Wild. Eagle-eyes Eric, saw the fox cross the road several hundred yards ahead of us.

He definitely blended in with the countryside. Okay, okay, not the best photos, but hey – who expected to see an artic fox?

We weren’t so excited for our next sighting – traffic. After having minimal cars on the road during most of the time, this was a shock to the senses.

Looking to the driver’s left, Eric could see Reykjavik in the distance, but it seemed we were going the wrong way. Yep, another tunnel, but this one under water for almost 6 km.

All of the other tunnels we experienced on the ring road were through mountains. I liked those better – just saying.

We are staying at the same hotel (Storm Hotel) where we started our adventure. We had one more photo to get…………….Sun Voyager, the place we began the Ring Road journey and the place we ended the Ring Road experience.