Tag: strasbourg

Strasbourg Xmas 2025-part 2

by ginnyinshanghai

We’re here for the Christmas markets, but also for the food. I had a request when we got to Strasbourg………………a repeat visit for a tapas restaurant we visited earlier. Eric made the reservation.

One advantage to a larger group, more items can be ordered and shared. We had plenty, but only needed four for the two of us. First two: foie gras and quiche with goat cheese.

Local sausages and pickled vegetables.

Pork roll in a delicious broth.

Naturally we ordered dessert – which was also a repeat and just as good as my memory: toasted kougelhopf cake, marinated pears with a local fruit puree and a scoop of ice cream. Yum, yum delicious. Not a drop was left on the plate. 🙂

It was a good meal at a repeat location – thanks hon.

Let’s get back to the Christmas decorations. Later in the evening, this wall also had some projections they added.

Now this was a large advent calendar, counting down the days until Christmas. All the numbers were represented, even if you can’t see them in my photo.

Decorations didn’t have to be over the top, sometimes simple and classic is best. Here’s Eric waiting patiently (not!) for my photo.

This was one of my favorite photos. In May, we had dinner at the restaurant in the background.

Several displays had giant bears in their windows.

This was seen on a side of a church, subtle but nice.

Those glasses I mentioned in the previous post?

Before coming, I read that collecting the Christmas market mugs was a ‘thing’. In Strasbourg, it was all about these (plastic) glasses. After getting your chosen hot beverage, a euro was charged for the cup. You bring back the glass, you get back a euro. Let’s just say that we are coming home with a collection. I convinced Eric these plastic glasses were much better (and lighter) than mugs for packing. We were on a hunt to not repeat a glass – we succeeded.

During our wandering, we came across some oysters – Eric needed some. And, maybe just maybe, I had a few of them – very salty.

Another ‘snack’ was a raclette sandwich – O.M.G. Their line was so long, Eric stood in line to pay for the sandwich, while I waited in the other line for pick up. Here was one of the many ‘burners’ melting the cheese before it was scraped onto a bun. You could add a protein and we got the ham.

Oh, and some gherkin pickles was the finishing touch. There was plenty for us to share with the one sandwich. We only needed one.

I needed one more photo of the cathedral while the sun was setting. I didn’t enhance this photo but the beauty of the church was stunning.

These last few photos were show some whimsical shots of Christmas I saw while walking around.

Merry Christmas a bit early.

Ginny & Eric

Strasbourg Xmas 2025

by ginnyinshanghai

Although we visited Strasbourg this past May, we heard great things about their Christmas Markets and quickly put it on the list for the trip. Getting to Strasbourg from Amsterdam required changing trains in Paris. Love the train system, when it works (and runs on time).

We arrived at dusk and the taxi driver could only take us so far, then walking with the luggage was the reality. Hotel Suisse was the eventual destination. Not a bad walk, even dragging our suitcases and backpacks.

Why could the taxi driver not drop us off at the door? We are steps away from the cathedral where only pedestrian traffic was allowed. This was our view from our 3rd floor window. The cathedral is literally right around the corner.

Our hotel? It was a small boutique accommodation that had some quirkiness as they modified the building throughout the years. Yes, it had an elevator which was a godsend being on the third floor.

Before any exploring was happening, food was on the agenda, and we went with local specialties at a nearby brewery.

sausages, potatoes & kraut
tarte flambe’

Fairly quickly we got in the holiday spirit with all of their colorful decorations hanging between buildings or above storefronts.

You just can’t imagine how many there are. Everywhere you looked there was another display.

Also found several of the actual Christmas markets while we explored. Notice the cup Eric is holding in the bottom right photo? More on that in the next post.

One walkway was decorated with chandeliers with screened boxes for protection. Didn’t expect to see that, ha! An entire alleyway was lined with different chandeliers.

Several locations kept with a theme from the shop below.

One thing we noticed was a police presence at all of the markets. Eric reminded me Europe had some issues a number of years back. They walked in pairs but this individual was stationed near one of their largest trees.

We stayed in Strasbourg 2 nights and 1 day so only doing one more Strasbourg post. Even during daytime the decorations were pretty. That’s in my next post.

Ginny

France 2025 – post 5

by ginnyinshanghai

Final photos and experiences in Strasbourg before heading to Paris.

One morning Rich and I got up before the others to walk the streets early morning. There was something going on……………..

We discovered there were multiple races occuring simultaneously, various lenghts and ages. We made the way to the finish line and this gentleman picked up his daughter about 20 feet before the finish line – very cute.

Walking the historic center, I curated a number of photos. A number of bridges exist for walking or driving. It seemed like all those we crossed had ironwork, nice.

I really don’t like the locks, but I see them everywhere – even in Iceland. Really? Really!

A few city or neighborhood parks were sprinkled throughout the downtown area.

Another use for a tub. This one had a few vegetable plants along with herbs sprinkled amongst the flowers.

One afternoon several of us walked to the University’s botanical garden.

Some of the flowers were similar to those seen at home.

And one I didn’t know……………

I r.e.a.l.l.y liked this insect house we came across in the garden. Hon? Can I have one of these? Can you build me one?

All too soon, our time was up in this city.

We grabbed a ride to the train station before looking to eat somewhere. This place was 1 block away – serving really good food, Restaurant D Steakhouse. I’m sure there are bad restaurants serving bad food somewhere (chains maybe?) but no complaints for the meals thus far.

A meat & cheese plate and duck foie gras were the starters we shared.

A nice goat cheese salad was all that I needed.

Veal cordon bleu (left) along with veal scallops (right).

What is a meal without desserts?

We enjoyed our time in this lovely city. Eric and I visited with friends in 2005 and I remember very little of that time. This visit was an excellent experience. Who knows, maybe we will be back. One last group photo in front of the cathedral.

Let’s get on the train and head to Paris!

Ginny

France 2025 – post 4

by ginnyinshanghai

Food glorious food! We had several more meals that were memorable. Let’s start with another food tour this time in Strasbourg!

Our meeting spot was a bronze display of the historic city center in a nearby park.

Our guide shared details using the bronze map giving us an idea of our walking path and the stops we were going to make. The cathedral can easily be seen below.

Before our first ‘official’ eating spot, we had to make a slight detour and pick-up. This tasty treat – kougelhopf – was being shared at the very end of the tour. But to be sure the bakery still had some available, an order was placed earlier for us to pick up. They have a unique shape (and baking instrument), somewhat similar to a bundt pan. You can see part of one behind the sign below.

Our first stop was the Meteor Brewery – an independent, family-run brewery since 1640.

The beer was easy drinking and served with local sausages, meats and cheese.

Next up – a bit of cheese.

Yes, one of those were a local Munster cheese.

Time for a sit-down break at the next stop at Le Gruber. Most of their patrons were sitting outside, yes, the weather was that nice. We went inside since our group was larger.

Choices were meat or vegetarian. We got one of each to share. 🙂

The last stop on our food tour was a ‘dessert’ tarte flambe.

Remember that first stop we made to pick up the ‘kougelhopf’? Yeah, we were too full and we each were given a mini kougelhopf to eat at our leisure. Thank goodness.

We had walked past this restaurant a number of times as we traversed the area. One day we stopped for lunch – delicious! Another fine choice for eating.

Two rooms and an outside terrace (of course, that’s where we sat) gave this restaurant a capacity of almost 50. It was a privileged gastronomic experience. The salmon with creme-fresh (left photo) and the duck foie gras (right photo) was a heavenly way to start the experience.

All of the main courses were well chosen:

Beef Carpaccio with pesto and Parmigano Regioano.

I chose the creamy risotto with spring vegetables (white asparagus). It was the creamiest!

Pork shank braised in beer & honey.

Steak with tiger sauce and mixed vegetables.

Delicious desserts.

Excellent eating!

While the restaurant noted above was a great lunch spot, we made reservations for one of the oldest establishments in Strausborg for our last evening of dining…….Maison Kammerzell.

Written by numerous journalists around the world as one of the 1000 places to see in your life. Located at the foot of the Strasbourg Cathedral, it symbolizes the Renaissance art of the city. The wood sculptures, murals and the 75 windows with stained glass in a cul-de-boteille fashion, exalt the virtues combining medieval nobility and ancient culture.

A quick shot before the feasting began.

The duck terrine with hazelnuts and snails in Alsatian style started our dining. Seems like every meal has foie gras or a terrine – what living.

My chicken supreme marinated with lemon and ginger (and don’t forget the frites) was some of the best chicken I’ve eaten.

Pan-fried sea bass fillet with saffron rice and veggies.

Veal kidneys and mushrooms, pasta and more mixed veggies.

The last meal selection was Pike perch fillet, ‘Matelote’ style, a Riesling sauce, tagliatelle and crispy bacon – of course it needed the bacon. 🙂

Desserts were no less fabulous: chocolate & banana tart (left) ice cream & sorbet (right).

Pistachio biscuit, w/ yogurt mouse and yogurt sorbet.

We would definitely eat at this restaurant if we ever make it back to the city – yes, it is that good. Then right around the corner……………..

One last post for Strasbourg and then headed to Paris.

Ginny

France 2025 – post 3

by ginnyinshanghai

Strasbourg Cathedral commands attention. Let’s start with a bit of history…….

A Roman settlement existed on this site since about 12 BC. It became a major trading center for wine, grain, and later for textiles and luxury products. The first cathedral was built on the present site about 550–575. The current structure was built between 1180 and 1439.

The original design had two spires, but the second was never built.

It is a blend of different styles of mediaeval architecture. Building started with the late Romanesque choir and transept, superseded by French and German Gothic from the 13th century onwards. The western front, with its bold design and stone lacework, is an outstanding example of the skills of the Cathedral masons.

The tower showcases the excellence of mediaeval engineering and remained the highest building in Europe until the 19th century standing at 466′. Today it is the 6th tallest church in the world and the tallest structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.

Wooden roof beams were prone to fire and were part of the construction. The church was repaired after each fire but at times work was interrupted by wars and political causes.

As with most cathedrals, stories were told a variety of ways. The stained glass windows were a key part of the storytelling. The various colors of glass used added to the grandeur seen inside the building. During WWII the stained glass from this cathedral was removed in 74 cases and stored in a German salt mine.

After the war the cases of stained glass were returned by the U.S. military. BTW – the cathedral was hit by British and American bombs in 1944 with repairs completed in the early 1990s.

The five lower bays on the north side contain some of the oldest stained glass of the cathedral, installed in the old Romanesque cathedral in about 1180. The windows are devoted to nine Emperors of the Holy Roman Empire. Each holds a scepter in his right hand and an orb in the left hand, symbols of their responsibility as both sovereigns and religious figures.  In the 13th century some rebuilding occurred and the windows were reinstalled in random locations. In 1877 an architect placed the windows back in their original arrangement.

I couldn’t resist this shot. This ‘individual’ was looking down on those inside the church – watching them.

I noticed a few tourists looking at the railing to a pulpit. There was a famed preacher with the cathedral who died 1510. A sculpture of his dog was placed on the steps of the pulpit where he once preached, mourning the loss of his master.  

One note l discovered while researching talked about the sculptures for this cathedral. The Strasbourg sculptures clearly show emotions – prophets look severe, the Virgins serene and the Virtues look noble.

There was grating on the floor and I saw someone dropping something. Upon closer inspection, individuals were dropping coins or bills through the grate. My photo only shows a small portion – probably a 10th of the full size.

Existence of the organ was recorded beginning in 1260. It was hoisted to its current position in 1327. While very difficult to see in my photo, the bottom of the organ contains a figure of Samson opening the jaws of a lion.  The figure has moving parts. I could find nothing else about ‘how’ or ‘when’ said parts moved. A mystery to me.

The current astronomical clock is one of the most famous features of the cathedral and the third one.  The first clock was installed 1352. When it stopped working the entire structure was dismantled in 1572. A second clock was completed in 1574 and was remarkable both for its complexity as an astronomical device and for the range and richness of its decorations and accessories. This second clock stopped working around 1788 and stood still until 1838.

The current clock is approximately 59′ tall and shows much more than the official time; it also indicates solar time, the day of the week (each represented by a god of mythology), the month, the year, the sign of the zodiac, the phase of the moon and the position of several planets.  A crowd was gathered and seemed to be waiting for ‘something’ to happen. It did. At the very top of my video, you can see the moving parts.

330 – what does that mean? That’s the number of steps until you reach the observation desk. Naturally, we (some) go that distance. Here we go.

Got some interesting photos along the way.

Wasn’t sure if this sign was good news or not, ha!

Made it!!!! Yep, only three of us.

You can see 30 kilometers from the observation desk. Yikes!

And now the journey begins downward.

Also, a chance for more interesting shots.

Reunited with the missing member of the group. 🙂

Ginny

France 2025 – post 2

by ginnyinshanghai

Strausbourg Dining:

Our first night of dining was absolutely amazing. Rich found a tapas bar that specialized in regional food and this was one of the top rated: Restaurant les Chauvins. They welcome you in a modern and warm setting in preparation for discovery of the flavors of Alsace. Their mission is for their diners to rediscover the authentic taste of fresh quality products, including organic farming and the know-how of local producers. The owners make it a point of honor to work with fresh products grown on Alsatian terroir.

Days into our trip and we were still talking about some of the food from that night. The first thing to arrive was ‘tarte flammbee traditionnelle’, a lovely thin-crusted item with a special cheese base, thinly-sliced onions and bacon pieces. Truly, it is the only thing I remember from our trip in 2005.

Next three items to arrive were: foie gras de canard (duck), aslacian pork and mini-burgers.

We still wanted more food: white asparagus, rolled meat & herbs rolled in egg pasta and hot dog aslacian.

This item was liked the least: escargot in mushroom cap.

Desserts? But of course. Eric ordered ice cream……..raspberry and citrus flavors, with sparkling white aslacian wine poured into the glass. It was pretty good.

However……………..this is the dessert we talked about the remainder of our time in France: Kougelhopf pain perdu with ice cream and a v.e.r.y tasty sauce. Most similar to French Toast – only better.

The kougelhopf was a local specialty of the Alsace region. It is a yeast brioche cake with raisins and almonds although googling recipes found a multitude of fruit and/or nuts that could also be added. I am going to make this at home! Don’t think I’ve mentioned yet, but at the point this photo was taken, I had been up 32+ hours. Yikes – I’m too old for this.

Walking through the historic area, one gets hungry. Lunch was at Au Petit Bois Vert, outside on the terrace around the foot of the oldest tree in Strasbourg.

While not a tapas place, we continued to share and taste each other’s selections. Never going to be a bad meal when sitting next to water – just saying.

No surprise, I got another tarte flambe with plenty to share.

All shared the homemade duck foie gras and the assorted venison meat & cheese platter.

Eric chose the traditional choucroute garnie (sausages, pork and sauerkraut).

While Rich and Hunter had the ‘wild game (boar) from Alsace. The presentation wasn’t exactly what they were expecting, but enjoyed their selection.

The guys all got dessert with Eric choosing raspberry glace (ice cream) and cafe gourmand for the other two.

So far so good our first few days in Strasbourg. Next up, Strasbourg Cathedral.

Ginny

France 2025 – post 1

by ginnyinshanghai

Headed back to Europe but notice something in my first few photos?

Even though I’m smiling………………I’m solo. Where is Eric? Six days earlier he flew out with Hunter and Rich to see the beaches of Normandy.

I headed to Paris after a stop in Atlanta before flying overseas.

I did see the sunrise since I had a window seat. Almost, but not quite, was worth the 8+ hour wait until they arrived at the train station – where I was waiting. There were a few hours that were dicey while I was waiting at the airport/train station.

I gave a lot of thought to acquiring a room at the hotel airport and sleeping. A lot of thought……..

Train tickets were purchased before leaving the states. We had to wait 15-20 minutes before departure to know the line it was arriving on . Then it was a mad dash to get our tickets scanned, go downstairs to the tracks, find the corresponding letter for our car and seats, before settling in on the train.

Here’s a nice view of the French country-side on our way to Strasbourg. Why Strasbourg? Eric and I had been here 2005 with friends and truthfully don’t remember much of that experience. It was my first trip to Europe and our friends planned the entire trip.

Strasbourg is one of the de facto four main capitals of the European Union (alongside Brussels, Luxembourg and Frankfort). It was first mentioned in 12 BC as a Roman camp. It had a history of German and French rule. French in 1681, German in 1871, French in 1918 (after WW1), German in 1940 and French in 1944.

We got to our AirBNB easily enough. We were met by a friend of the host and he carried up my suitcase. Going up two flights, some of which were twisty was a feat in itself.

These places are always interesting. They squeeze in bedrooms, toilets and showers separate from the original floor plan. Upon entering, the path takes you through our bedroom (top left photo) before entering the living space and kitchen. Rich and Hunter were upstairs after traversing another tight stairway, then being careful to not hit your head on a wooden beam or slanted ceiling.

The city was known for its medieval cityscape of Rhineland black and white timber-framed buildings. We went exploring once suitcases were dropped.

The weather was beautiful during our visit. When possible, we walked along the waterways. The guys were in the background of my shot below.

Three bridges along with four fortified towers were built between 1230 and 1250 on the branches of the Ill River, to defend Strasbourg against attacks.

A quick photo from atop our vantage point before heading into ‘La Petite France’.

The Petite France district is one of the most picturesque and touristic districts of Strasbourg. The canals of the Ill  de Strasbourg were built and developed from the tenth century onwards and mainly used for the defense of the city as well as for its river and craft commercial activities. They were improved, extended and strengthened during the Middle Ages. 

Records indicate some type of bridge dated back to 1197. It was reconstructed in 1841and is supported by a single cast-iron arch, formed of four arch ribs. It is one of the oldest cast-iron bridges still standing in France.

We followed this boat and saw it go through one of their locks.

More excitement is coming – food and the Strasbourg Cathedral. Stay tuned.

Ginny