Reykjavik Winter 2024, #2

Booking with AirBNB, sets you up to receive ‘suggestions’ for other activities. Eric got a notice for this local company ‘Funky Iceland’ and booked us the ‘Funky History Walk with a Local Storyteller’. Their guides take you through 1150 years of Icelandic history and the fight for surival, freedom and tolerance. These values continue to shape its liberal attitudes today. BTW – the rainbow painted on the street is considered ‘street art’. More on that further in the post.

We met at the Viking statue, in front of the Hallgrimskirkja church. We walked the area earlier and I shot these night-time photos of the church.

The tour allowed us to go inside and the history lessons started. The vaulted ceiling was truly awe-inspiring.

Turn around 180 degrees, look up to see their massive organ.

With all of the tourists around, there was a small chapel in the corner for individual solitude and prayers.

Interesting thing about their seating. The backs can be moved to face the pulpit or face the organ, locking in place for musical concerts.

Across the street was our next stop……a sculpture garden holding the work of Einer Jonsson. Also a great spot to capture the church from another angle.

He is often called the first Icelandic sculptor, gaining international attention. The Icelandic Parliament agreed to build a home for him and his wife in exchange for the donation of his collection after his death in 1954. Walking the gardens was free for all to visit, containing 20+ pieces of his art.

In honor of the upcoming holiday season………

We continued the tour through nearby residential areas and I came across street art or murals that caught my eye. Most references to street art date to 2015 when Iceland Airwaves/Uran nation collaborated for ‘Wall Poetry’. Not exactly true as street art was firmly entrenched as of 2009. ‘Tagging and vandalism occurs everywhere, but street art has much more structure around its concept.

Some are a bit more abstract than others. Some are commissioned and many are on private property.

Check the internet as there are guided and self-guided tours of Reykjavik Street art.

As we meandered to the bottom of the hill, the destination was City Hall that housed a giant relief of Iceland.

Alas, we walked in, and it was gone. There were chairs and a runway set up for a future event. The map sets upon rollers and can be rolled into a holding space when events were planned. I did my own internet research and discovered the map is based upon 1948 U.S. Army map series and was started in 1985. It is composed of 1mm thick cardboard cut along the contour lines of the maps. The are glued, stapled or nailed as needed.

Found this photo on the internet after a lot of searching since we didn’t see it in person.

What we did encounter was a protest! Really? Really!. A quiet (indoor) spot for the guide to talk history kept getting louder and full of small children. Then the parents brought out instruments of noise for their children – whatever they obviously had at home. We asked one of the adults what was going on……………………….schoolteachers were protesting for their wages. Power to the people!

The media showed up and was doing a few interviews.

It got too loud for conversation, so we headed for our last stop, an Icelandic tradition…….Icelandic hotdogs. This spot is the most ‘famous’ location for hot dogs. Yep, it is outside in a small square. What makes their hot dogs special? The main ingredients are lamb, beef and pork, mixed in a specific ratio. The recipe includes salt, paprika, pepper, garlic, onion, coriander and other seasonings.

Throughout our visit – no matter the time of day – they had a line and people eating their dogs outside. It was a thing. Besides being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture.

Getting a hot day ‘all the way’ included fresh onions, fried onions, sweet mustard, remoulade sauce and ketchup. No ketchup for Eric. No sweet mustard for me. Loved the fried onions which added a bit of crunch. Yum.

We enjoyed the tour and the guide. He started this venture with a few like-minded friends, and they continue to grow it. His tour had good ratings and another good one from us.

Reykjavik, Iceland Winter 2024

That’s right……………we headed back to Iceland!

Eric found direct flights to Iceland from Orlando and after conferring with Adrienne, we found a week to head north.

So excited to be on another journey to one of my (current) top places to visit. In my excitement, forgot a few steps after landing……………….deplaning outside before catching a bus to the terminal. Had to dig out the scarves, gloves and headwear from the backpack!

Yep, a great way to get used to the chilly temps for us Floridans.

Going in November we got to see the beginning of Christmas displays.

We all were able to utilize carry-on luggage and a backpack (each) so no waiting at the luggage carousel.

Short walk to the BLUE rental car company and we were quickly on our 45-minute drive to Reykjavik. We rented an apartment and got really good directions, even though we went around the block a few times. OOps. There was a parking garage underneath the building and after a few trial & errors……. we got inside and parked.

The place was next door to Hotel Borg and the key box was in the opposite alley. Eric went upstairs where another key box happened to be located, and we procured both sets of keys!

Our place was the middle balcony overlooking a square.

We made the decision to pay for the prior night of our arrival thus ensuring we had immediate access upon arrival. Flights from the U.S. arrive very early Icelandic time. Five hours was the time difference from home. My body thought it was 3am.

Two bedrooms, a living area and a small kitchen was perfect for our needs.

First order of business was breakfast after dropping off luggage and no better place than right next door at Hotel Borg at their buffet. They had a variety of offerings but truly, I wanted the basics then some sleep. Two cups of coffee had absolutely no effect on my sleeping at that point.

Four hours of sleep truly made a difference for the afternoon plans……Sky Lagoon. Originally, it seemed a bit at odds to jump into water in Iceland but LOVE their thermal baths and lagoons.

This visit (yes, there is another one) was part of a package, but more on that in another post. Here are a few highlights:

Steaming water viewed after showering and putting on swimsuits.
Three delighted participants.
Eric leading the way into the main body of water.
Liquid refreshment.

Hour+ later we met at their bar for other nourishment.

An initial tasting of lamb stew – Icelandic lamb was the only reason I now enjoy lamb.

Even in this climate, I found flowers. The center flowers are related to cabbage and tolerate colder temps and looked great.

They were surrounded by a pink heather.

Even in their winter, we found plenty of activities and as long as you’re dressed in layers, you can brave almost anything here. Hang tight, more posts to come.

Iceland 2024 & Reykjavik

Okay………………………I’m only a few weeks/months behind from completing the last Iceland post. If you’ve read some of my other trip posts, this is usually the hardest one for me to write – as the trip is over. 😦 Regardless, here you go.

Back to the Storm Hotel in Reykjavik and we got an upgrade! We were on the top floor with our own balcony. Woo Hoo!

Loved it!

Eric agreed to go back to a gastro pub that Adrienne and I visited that we loved. If I was totally truthful (and I strive to be), it wasn’t quite as good as my memory served. We enjoyed it but there were different things on the menu during my 2019 visit, as there should be, but still…….. I had built it up in my memory. Reality was my tastes and tastebuds have changed in 5 years. We’ll go with that.

But during our walk to the restaurant, I chuckled at their street corner lights……..

Leave it to the ‘girls’ to follow the traffic rules – just saying.

Back inside the restaurant, we started with local beers.

Add in a few veggies – Brussel sprouts and spicey edamame.

Next small plate that arrived was this spicey tuna.

Ordered ‘goats on horseback’…………huh? Bacon-wrapped dates, stuffed with goat cheese. I really enjoyed them.

Naturally wanted to finish with dessert. 🙂

This is also the city where elaborate graffiti is encouraged.

A few examples we passed as we traveled the city centre.

Always need to visit one of the most iconic places in the city…….Hallgrimskirkja Church. It is the largest church in Iceland and amongst the tallest structures in Iceland, being a Lutheran parish.

In front is a statue gifted to the Icelandic people from the United States commemorating the 1000th anniversary of the convening Iceland’s parliament at Pingvellir (930 A.D.). No, that is not a typo, it was the 1000th anniversary.

Another iconic street is this one – a top photo spot. Iceland is a very accepting society. We came across a number of these rainbow streets throughout our trip.

Since our last visit, food halls have become more prevalent in Iceland and elsewhere. We came across this one and went inside to check it out – and get warm.

The time was well spent with a cup of coffee for me in the green floral mug and beer for Eric.

And some snacks.

They have r.e.a.l.l.y good French fries.

I discovered this Icelandic chocolate a few days before leaving home.

And while it was a hike to get there, we made the trek. Omnom Chocolates was started by two Icelandic friends in 2013 and their goal was “bean to bar” using the finest cacao beams sourced worldwide. Sustainability starts with traceability, and they buy ingredients by direct trade.

They specialize in small-batch chocolates, originally creating single origin chocolate bars and expanded by adding in unique Icelandic elements to their ingredient list. Their chocolate-wrapped graphics are inspired by fantastical creatures, surrealism, pop art and contemporary Nordic design. Basically, I LOVED all of the designs. Here is one example along with my Icelandic sheep. While the sheep always made me smile, I would get ‘looks’ whenever I included it into a photo. It always made people smile – which in turn made me smile that I added a bit of fun and whimsy for someone else.

One last restaurant we visited was BRUT established in 2021. They specialized in small plates, which is a style of eating we both enjoy.

Started with home-made chips & hummus dip and Icelandic Sea snails. I’m fairly new to eating snails and our waiter warned us they had a unique texture. Yep, he was right. I tried one and Eric got to eat the remainder that was on the plate.

I really enjoyed these shrimp with herbal mayo. The ‘burned’ lemon was not something we had seen, and added another layer of flavor. Yum.

This fish was something new for us to try: Skate, served with brown butter, capers, parsley and lemon. The tender flesh resembles strands as it cooks and the flesh has a mildly sweet flavor. It was good – I would order it again.

The morning we left, Eric did a bit of walking and found a barber. Nothing else to do……….Eric went in for a shave and trim. He has plans to stop in on the next trip to Iceland………………….which may be happening sooner than most would expect.

That’s right. I’m always up for a trip to Iceland but Eric originally said his one trip in 2019 was enough. This trip was more about knocking something off of my bucket list. He truly enjoyed himself sooooooo much more than he expected, we’re planning a shorter trip in the Fall. Yeah!!!!!

Until the next post,