Tag: iceland

Iceland 2026 – post 4

by ginnyinshanghai

One of my top things to do in Iceland is soaking in the geothermal heated water.  While there are a few establishments near Reykjavik, my top favorite is Sky Lagoon. 

At a 15-minute ride from the city center, it’s fairly easy to reach.  We made two separate visits on this trip.  It doesn’t really matter (to me) the temps or wind as you can find a place to embrace or shield from the elements during your experience. The photo below you can see the steam rising from the geothermal water – love it! This was part of a protected cove after leaving the changing & showering area.

Speaking of the ‘showering’ area. The message below freaks out most Americans. What? I have to shower BEFORE I put on my swimsuit? In front of these women? If available, you can pre-pay for special individualized shower & dressing rooms. We did that on our first visit. It was nice, not really worth the extra money, in my opinion. Once was enough.

First step (ha, ha) is to remove your shoes before stepping into the changing area. Find an available locker, strip, bring your swimsuit to the showers (semi-private, unlike older, other lagoons) and start soaping up. A tip someone shared previously………..after showering, put on your swim suit and turn the water on again. The warm water will help ease the transition before you can get fully into the heated water. Got it! And yes, it does make a difference.

I turn the corner and see this cave-like stairway.

Ahhhhh, that water temp feels great! I submerge to my ears, soaking up the heat and see Eric patiently (not!) waiting.

L.O.V.E. these thermal bathing spots.

I was in search of some frozen precipitation. While we didn’t see any snow coming down yet, some could be seen. Found this accumulation along the barrier of the infinity wall (more on that later).

That was not going to be a good spot for our photo. I found one other area, another nook in the main thermal lagoon, that had a small accumulation in the grassy hillside.

Not exactly what I was wanting, but it will do. My dream experience is to be in the pool while it is snowing. Maybe another time.

Something that separates Sky Lagoon from others is Skjol, The Ritual.

Eric has a love/hate relationship with it, only liking certain aspects of the process. In short, the process is laid out below. The first step ‘Laug’ is no problem. Step 2 is a harder one to consider.

I found this display right inside the doorway. Once you’ve done the experience, it makes more sense. The top right corner (where you see a ‘circle’) is the cold plunge pool before going inside to the sauna.

The ‘Kuldi’ cold plunge? Not happening. Stepping out of the heated lagoon, there is a 20′ walk into the building that houses the other steps. You’re supposed to take a dip in the small, circular cold-water plunge before entering. I saw a few doing it, and I got my foot in the water – that was it. The next step is the Ylur, sauna. That I can do – but not for very long.

They have this floor-to-ceiling window that overlooks the bay. It is a really, really cool view. I kept the young boy in the photo for perspective.

Now this step is the one that Eric really doesn’t like – Suld, cold mist.

While not my favorite, I do try to stay in it long enough to feel the temp difference.

The fifth step in the ritual – Mukt, body scrub. After exiting the cold mist, a worker hands you a small bowl with their special salt scrub. The scrub has Icelandic herbs, volcanic salt, almond oil & sesame oils. It feels heavenly after putting it on. The minerals in geothermal water are said to de-toxify, relax muscles and refresh the skin.

It does help to have a partner with you to put the scrub on your back – just saying.

In the background you can see the next step – Gufa, steam room. Eric was leading the way.

Very steamy inside, ha!

I can’t stay in here too long.

And then it’s time to wash off the salt scrub and cool down a bit.

The last step – Saft, juice – was not part of our original experience in 2024 but when they expanded The Ritual space, it was added. I like it.

Remember the young man in one of my earlier photos? His mother wanted some shots of their experience, and her phone was locked up. I had no problem getting the photos and emailing them to her personal email. They were from the Isle of Wright.

Now, comes another hard part…………..walking outside this space to get to the heated pool.

Yep, that’s ice on the walkway. Yikes!

We needed some refreshment. Did I mention there is a bar carved into the lagoon?

Eric got their beer……………

…………..while I felt like something sweeter, the crowberry martini.

Part of their marketing for the Sky Lagoon is where the sea meets the sky. The lagoon has an infinity edge that overlooks the Karsnes Harbor. The grates are handy for setting down your glasses or phone. A few baskets are placed around for individuals to drop off their empty vessels.

And they do have lifeguards. Several are walking the perimeter, and a few are actually in the water. Not your ‘typical’ gear for a lifeguard, ha!

Yes, this is a man-made lagoon opening in 2021, but the water is geothermally heated 100-104 degrees F. It is more tranquil, and less crowded with a focus on the Icelandic bathing culture and wellness. Our second visit was great weather for a winter day in Iceland, plenty of sun, no clouds and minimal wind. Couldn’t resist this shot.

There are a few bubbling spots where the heated water is added in.

Can’t forget their waterfall at the other end of the lagoon. Both Eric and I got close – him closer than me. 🙂

It was finally time to end the experience and get on with our day. My last few photos are us heading towards our respective locker rooms.

Towels are part of the experience with blow dryers and other amenities inside the locker rooms. After getting back into ‘real clothes’ a few options existed for food or shopping.

One day we planned for this to be our ‘lunch’ and ordered at their cafe. Eric’s selection is the top slate with traditional pickled herring and Iceland’s signature gravlox. My selection, bottom slate, was 4 flavorful cheeses, paired with bilberry jam. The sourdough grain bread is made in house daily – yum.

Alas, our time at Sky Lagoon was over for this Iceland visit. Until our next time in Reykjavik.

Ginny

As part of their ‘wellness’ Sky Lagoon soothes your body and your mind.

Iceland 2026 – post 3

by ginnyinshanghai

We travel for food and culture, usually in that order. This trip was no different. The five hour time difference messed with our eating schedule. After a nap upon arrival, we walked to a nearby food hall for lunch(?) or dinner (?) or whatever our schedule is on.

While not everyone enjoys food halls, I like them since each of us can pick a different type of food. Shockingly, I felt like sushi and ended up with a poke bowl.

Eric wanted fish. HIs entre was Ling, similar to cod. Then he added the fries for us to share. 🙂

Most cities we visit we start with a food tour early on. This trip was no different. In 2025 it was rated #1 Food Tour in the World – pretty high recommendation! We scheduled this for our first full day in the city.

First stop on the tour was at Fjallkonan, translates to ‘The Women of The Mountain’. They combine Icelandic tradition with international influence. Essentially three buildings along the street are owned by them and are different food/drink stops: gastropub, lunch/dinner restaurant and a cocktail bar. We were in the middle spot for the tour.

We were served two tastes from their menu: slow-cooked lamb & flatbread with a carrot puree, red onions & horseradish and arctic char blini on a chickpea flatbread, roe, horseradish and popping lentils. I liked the lamb tasting the best. Iceland was the reason I started eating lamb. Only problem……………I only like Icelandic lamb, and we can’t find it in the states, yes we have tried.

Something a bit different on this tour was that drinks were not included – I’m fine with that. We had to add a bit of time at the end of each stop to pay for any drinks ordered.

The second stop was Messinn – a place we had visited several times in the past. Our guide, Dave, is talking about one of the dishes we will be getting which is their specialty: fish pan, with arctic char, butter roasted potatoes and cherry tomatoes. Did you now they grow tomatoes in Iceland? With all of the geothermal heat, it has been channeled into heating greenhouses. During our travels in the past we also saw greenhouses growing banana plants! I couldn’t find any history about Messinn but every tour guide has always commented, this was a place their families stopped in years ago and it remains a consistent spot for family gatherings.

We had another pan that was smashed fish with mashed potatoes – but alas, no photo. I got the photo of the arctic char fish pan with crispy potatoes and cherry tomatoes. Oh yeah, and a coffee to warm me up.

Our third stop was another repeat for us – Baejarins Bezto Pylsur hot dog stand and yes, it’s outside. We had no problem with this being a repeat. If a food tour didn’t stop here…………..I would question their integrity – just saying. Pretty much any time of day there is a line, day or night, cold temps or snow. It doesn’t matter; this was the original spot for Icelandic hotdogs. Their business began in 1937 with lamb being the primary meat but also includes a small portion of beef and/or pork in the mix. Please note, this is one of the few places that serves coke products! The largest beer distributor has the largest soft drink distribution – which is Pepsi. Bummer. The few places that sold coke product, I ordered a second round.

I didn’t get a photo of our hot dogs, but found this one on the internet. Icelanders like their sauces and their hotdog has a number of them. If you get one ‘all the way’ it will have fried onion pieces (yum – who knew), fresh cut onions, sweet mustard, Icelandic ketchup (sweetened with apple cider – yuck) and remoulade.

Three stops down, two more to go. Next up was Islenski Barinn. Since 2009 this family-run gastropub is where Icelandic home-cooking meets a modern twist.

The main event was the lamb soup and local beer, GULL. BTW – they are the ones that have the largest drink distributorship in Iceland.

There was another ‘event’ during our time at this stop. Fermented shark was a subsistence food that has now become a tourist attraction.  It stinks, it has a weird texture and the taste lingers on long after it’s gone.  Nope, I’m not doing it. They cut it in small square chunks and keep it in an air-tight container. Tradition dictates after eating said shark, it should be followed with a shot of Brennivin.

Brennivin is considered to be the country’s signature distilled beverage. It is distilled from fermented grain mash and then combined with Iceland’s very soft high-pH water and flavored only with caraway. The steeping of herbs in alcohol is a long-held folk tradition in Nordic countries. It is typically drunk chilled.

Okay – back to the food.

This was also the stop where I got a group photo.  The guide was in the middle of the table, left side, wearing a baseball cap. Our group was composed of individuals from California, Massachusetts and two couples from United Kingdom – all Iceland rookies.

Our final stop, which will be dessert and coffee – Kaffi Loki.

In the past we’ve eaten here for breakfast and it was touted as a traditional Icelandic breakfast. 

But this was our sweet treat for the food tour:  rye-bread ice cream with chocolate chips, rhubarb syrup and whipped cream.   It must be growing on me.  I’ve had it a few times and made a token effort to try it.  This time, most of mine was gone. Coffee or hot tea was included.

One evening, we wanted something different and Eric suggested pizza.  Really?  Really!  He had been looking at some You-Tube videos for bloggers in Iceland and after checking their website, this stop was one of their favorites.  FYI – this was the same place we had a breakfast snack the day we arrived.  They obviously can create a variety of items – great!

Started with a little wine as we settled in.

Seems like we were a tad bit hungry that evening.  We ordered their garlic bread – O.M.G!  it was excellent.  Just the right amount of garlic & salt and not swimming in butter.  This would be a definite repeat if we’re back in town.

Perfect timing for the pizza to arrive.  When the utensils were brought to the table, we also got pizza cutters – interesting.  Now we see why.  The pizza doesn’t come to the table cut.

A few evenings we stopped in for a night-cap.  The Einstok Bar was one we visited. Eric was looking for a cocktail and this one struck his fancy.  I had a sip. I will agree it was pretty good.

Me, I wanted a beer.

Finally time to end this post and curate my photos and geothermal experience for the next post!

Ginny

Iceland 2026 – post 2

by ginnyinshanghai

Let’s talk about Reykjavik. The church, Hallgrimskirkja, near the centre of Reykjavík, is one of the city’s best-known landmarks and is visible from throughout the city. It is a Protestant Lutheran parish church at 244 ft tall, the largest church in Iceland and second tallest building in the country. The church was originally intended to be shorter, but the leaders of the church wanted a spire to outshine the Catholic Church of Iceland – always a competition somewhere.

Known for its distinctively curved spire and side wings, it has been described as having become an important symbol for Iceland’s national identity since its completion in 1986.

It is best described as a piece of Expressionist architecture because of its tower-like exterior and its rejection of traditional styles. I really like the old churches in Europe, being 1000+ years old, but have space to enjoy a more modern style. I want to visit the church each time we come. 🙂 Eric humors me with a visit during each of our trips.

The statue in front of the church is the Norse explorer Leif Erikson. The artwork was commissioned by the U.S. government as a gift to the Icelandic people for the 1,000th anniversary of the Alpingi in 1930. The statue predates the church’s construction begun in 1945.

Getting to the hilltop required walking on their famous ‘rainbow street’. The colorful pavement first appeared in 2015, when locals painted the street in rainbow colors for the Reykjavík Pride Festival. The rainbow became so popular that it was later made permanent in 2019— symbolizing diversity, equality and love. 

Not too far away is this purple sidewalk art – which when I was googling it, found it in a multitude of colors, but just happens to be the purples and blues at the moment.

Murals on buildings is considered street art and had a multi-faceted relationship in the city, it did not emerge overnight. Some artists did all the right things, applying for permits and waited for paperwork. When it didn’t come, they reached out to building owners for their permission. As long as nothing obscene was created, most of it stayed. In 2009 an initiative started for artist to submit proposals. A major turning point came in 2015 with the launch of Wall Poetry, a collaboration between Iceland Airwaves music festival and Berlin-based art initiative Urban Nation. Here is a small collection from our walks. You can download a street art map and wander the city for other hidden gems.

Cats are celebrated here and a number walk freely around town. Couldn’t resist a quick photo of this one drinking along the street.

Art also takes the form of sculptures. I always walk down to the harbor to find Sun Voyager. The artist intended it to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It was the result of a city-funded competition to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city of Reykjavik. There has been some dispute about the eventual location of Sun Voyager as some have complained that the ship does not face west, towards the setting Sun in accordance with the concept behind it,

Yes, the sky was that blue (along with the water) for my photo above. It was a gorgeous day.

Another body of water is called ‘The Pond’. It is an old sea lagoon that closed off over 1,200 years ago, gradually becoming a freshwater pond due to groundwater flows. Feeding the birds on the lake shores is a popular pastime.

Now, these people were crazy! These tourists were to the left of where the birds had open water. No thank you.

A unique statue nearby is The Monument to the Unknown Beaucrat. It depicts a man in a business suit carrying a briefcase with the upper body replaced by a slab of Icelandic volcanic basalt. Created in 1994 it is a satirical tribute to the faceless who work tirelessly behind the scenes to maintain the city’s operations.

Nearby was a square with an archway – a nice bright spot for a photo to close this post. Hang tight – more to come. A few posts about eating – yes, Iceland does have a food scene – and one of my top favorite places to visit, a geothermal bath & spa.

Ginny

Iceland 2026 – post 1

by ginnyinshanghai

We headed North!  Where you might ask……………..Iceland!  Crazy right, why go to where it’s cold?  Most people go south for the warmth, but we’re not most people.  When you live in the heat, short trips to northern destinations have a lot more appeal.  Let’s take a look at the temps.

Central Florida:

Reykjavik Iceland: oh yeah, that is going to be chilly.

Yes, yes, got to the airport waaaaaay too early, but I’d rather hang out at the airport versus home.  The Priority Pass lounge in Terminal C is definitely a step up from the other ones at MCO – much bigger and while there is comp food and drink, one can also order some food for nominal pricing.  Not much of a surprise what I ordered – fried cheese with mariana sauce (a definite throw-back). OMG – it was so good, hot, gooey and very tasty.

Let me see, what did Eric order………….fried chicken fingers and fries.  What!?!!!!!  He said he ordered it for me.  Really, does anyone believe that?

We have a routine.  I leave the lounge early, walk the gates to stretch and get in some steps before boarding.  Eric stays in the lounge for the comp drink & food.  I got a call from Eric…………….do I have his backpack – nope.

Panic mode sets in, for both of us.

Coming out of the lounge, he asks the workers at the check-in desk if a backpack was found. Maybe? Turns out that Eric was ‘that guy’ who left something unattended. They asked for a description and Y.E.S it was his backpack. Oh, thank god. Even though it was his backpack, it was not going to be the best way to start a vacation.

Okay, heart has stopped racing, let’s get back to the trip.

A nice surprise was sitting in our seats. LOVE the Icelandic bottled water. While in the actual country, bottled water is frowned up due to their high quality of water. But since we’re still in the states, bottled water it is.

We didn’t exactly leave as scheduled. Took us awhile to get through the traffic on the runways. One positive from that, a few interesting evening shots. First up the runway…….

………….and then downtown Orlando.

The flight was less than 7 hours then we arrived at Iceland’s International Airport – Kevflavik. Located about 30 miles from Reykjavik, it is the largest airport in Iceland and the primary hub for international flights from Europe, North America and Greenland. The airport was originally built by the U.S. military during the occupation in WWII. In 1949 a passenger terminal was built by Lockheed and in 1951 the U.S. military returned the airport to Iceland. Whew, enough of that history.

One thing that I’ve gotten used to is deplaning outside and walking to a bus before getting to the terminal. Really?!? It is cold here! It was a shock the first time and wasn’t really dressed for that. Now, we know.

Remember I mentioned it’s approx 30 miles from Reykjavik? There’s no train system, but there are buses and taxis (unless you rent a car). We have rented a car in the past, but not this trip. While everything in Iceland is expensive, taking a taxi for the 2 of us is not worth it. Once you have 3 or 4 people in your group, a taxi makes sense at that point. For now, we take the bus. They depart frequently and correlate their schedules to flight arrivals.

All the buses go to the Bus Station near downtown Reykjavik. At that point, one needs to transfer to a smaller transport for hotel drop-offs or catch a taxi – our choice.

We generally stay at an AirBNB in the downtown area and Eric found us a 1 bedroom for the two of us. One trick we do……………..pay for the previous day so we can immediately get into our lodgings. Don’t think I mentioned this earlier but North American flights arrive between 5am – 8am local time. I’m too old to wait until a hotel check-in. I need some food and sleep.

We found a breakfast stop 1 1/2 blocks away from our place.

Vanilla donut and coffee for me, oatmeal porridge for Eric.

Back to the place for a nap with black-out curtains for a good sleep during daylight hours. Night. Night.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #7

by ginnyinshanghai

Besides the food, we had two traditional yet classic Icelandic experiences. First up, a thermal pool.

Sky Lagoon

Opened in 2021, this oceanside geothermal lagoon demonstrated the commitment to sustainability as their water sources is fueled by the country’s 600 natural hot springs. Their building techniques and building supplies were sourced intentionally and sustainable. BTW – almost every home in Iceland is heated with geothermal power.

Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich geothermal water is a beloved Icelandic tradition. We made two separate visits to the Sky Lagoon during our stay. Coming into the reception area you begin to soak in the ambience and relax.

There is ‘spa etiquette’ that everyone should be aware of and follow.

>Remove your shoes before entering the changing facilities.

>Locate a locker, store personal items inside, locking with your wristband that also serves to purchase food and refreshments.

>Shower your body, sans clothing with soap and warm water to keep the pools clean. Yes, some places have private showers, others do not. We have done both types. First time showering in front of other females felt odd, after that, no big deal. Think high school gym class when you had to shower……… only these are MUCH, MUCH, MUCH nicer showers!

>Put on your bathing suit before leaving the changing room to head to the geothermal water.

Find your spot to enjoy the warm waters and peaceful surroundings.

At the back of the above photo you can see a waterfall. We both enjoyed the spray. Me, not quite as close as Eric. 🙂

Earlier I mentioned ‘oceanside’………..the 75 metre infinity edge of the lagoon was a gathering spot for all.

Did I also mention they have a walk up/swim up bar? Your wristband serves as your payment method.

With your entrance, you are able to participate in ‘The Ritual’. This is an opportunity to slow down, take your time and experience a deeper healing journey through all of your senses.

Not going to lie. The only part of me that ‘plunged’ into the cold pool was the few inches up to my ankle. The photo on the right you can slightly see the rounded edge of the cold plunge spot.

Walking into the turf house, the next step was the sauna.

I could not spend many minutes in this part before I felt like was cooking.

This was a ‘cool’ spot. Ha, Ha! Mist sprays were slowly occurring as you walked into and out of this area.

Totally loved the next step in the ritual

They didn’t mind being in my photo.

Take as much time as you want to exfoliate.

You’re all salty, oily and it’s time to walk into the steam chamber.

Not too much to see in the steam room…………………….

You’re almost finished with the ritual and yes, slightly dehydrated.

Herbs in the elixir
Very tasty and refreshing drink.

Alas, time to brave the chilly air and winds to head back out to the geothermal lagoon.

What’s left to do after all that? Enjoy the relaxing pool. We visited this place twice during our visit. Below is a short video of the second visit – it was VERY windy (and I was in a protected area – Yikes!).

Would we do it again? A.b.s.o.l.u.t.e.l.y. Our first day in Iceland after arriving, we visited and our last full day in Iceland we went back again.

We exit the building and……………….

After some light refreshments to fuel and rehydrate, we drove the 15 minutes back to our apartment.

Oh man – wish I was back there now.

At the beginning I indicated we had 2 traditional Icelandic experiences. What was the other one?

Aurora Borealis – The Northern Lights

All our research indicated the best way to seeing the Northern Lights……booking a guided tour.

I follow several Instagrammers from Iceland and one company stood out – Artic Adventures. If your first foray with them doesn’t work out to see the Northern Lights, you can rebook another night, and another night, with your reservation good for 3 years (no refunds) until you see the lights.

Their reviews were fabulous. Rebooking did occur and still the reviews had positive things to say. We booked them. We also choose a day early in our vacation in case it didn’t work out. And it didn’t. If cloud cover or rain is forecast, the tour is canceled by 6:15pm (pick up was 8:30pm) and you can rebook. We looked at our remaining days in Iceland and the Friday night looked the best option – not great, but better than the other days of the week.

Here’s the radar that night. Our guide (also the driver) felt he could find us a window north of the city.

Our group of 18 was in an elongated super jeep. One couple on the tour had rebooked 2 other times that week and been canceled due to cloud cover. One criteria was to get away from the city and subsequent light pollution. We drove 40+ minutes before he stopped, talked with other guides and pulled off onto dirt roads. Yes, we needed the super jeep.

I had done my reading and truly did understand the lights tended to be ‘white fuzz’ to the naked eye. The camera on your smart phone could filter out that light and still give you a decent photo.

My first viewing, not really impressed.

Second photo I could faintly see pink and green.

Okay, things are getting a bit better. Definitely seeing streaks of green.

And then the money shot.

I will continue to be on the hunt for ‘dancing’ northern lights, but I’m good for now.

I plan to be back. Why? The unparalleled scenery, the abundant natural beauty, the thermal pools, the delicious food, the wide-open spaces and vast areas of untouched wilderness.

On my first visit in 2019, I found this street art on one of their buildings. I was hoping we could find it again. We did. This is why we travel:

We need to collect -great- moments. This is my last post for the 2024 Icelandic visit. Hope you enjoyed our activities and learned a bit more about the land of Fire & Ice.

Ginny, Eric & Adrienne

Reykjavik Winter #6

by ginnyinshanghai

More food and a f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.c dining experience.

This was really one of the few times we stayed at an apartment and did no cooking or noshing. We primarily used our kitchen space for morning coffee and drinks.

Why was that? Soooooo many food options within easy walking distance! Let’s continue to explore the Icelandic food scene.

The Laundrymat Cafe

First meal of the day – breakfast. This establishment was approx. 1/2 block from our apartment. Easy walking even in windy conditions.

It had your basic breakfast options. That’s okay, that’s what we wanted.

Maybe the blood mary wasn’t the norm……………….but who’s judging.

What was in the basement, yep, a laundromat.

This place was quite popular and by the time we left, fairly full. And it was another windy day in Iceland – just saying. Some days, you needed to hold onto your hat!

Old Iceland Restaurant

Established in 2014, their focus was to highlight Icelandic produce. They use herbs and spices from the mountains of Iceland. A lunch option one afternoon was this spot. On the outside it was a quiet unassuming place, but their small plates had quite an artistic flair and flavors were punched up.

Between all of us, every meal someone ordered soup. Soup is good for the soul and for the body – another way to keep warm. Of course, you needed to accompany it with bread. 🙂

Shellfish Soup

Soup only goes so far and occasionally heartier choices was needed.

Cured salmon, rye bread crumble, smoked roe and dill oil.
Arctic char fish, confit potatoes and roasted peppers with accompanying greens.

Posthous Food Hall

This was a great stop if we needed a little something to share, a chance to duck in out of the rain & wind and still enjoy the vibe of Reykjavik.

This sushi bento box was our pick one evening. We had a large lunch but wanted a little bit something that night. This was perfect to share. By the time we left Iceland, I believe we had tasted something from most of the food stations inside this establishment! LOVE food halls!

Kopar – Reykjavik’s Old Harbor

At Kopar, they aim to provide an Icelandic dining experience that pays homage to traditional ingredients, while also surprising their guests. In their kitchen, the ingredients provide the inspiration, and the chefs follow their years of experience to deliver something new. It works!

Soups! Perfect for a rainy wintry evening.

Creamy tomato soup with aioli
Rock crab soup

Followed that with Artic char fish with tasty veggies and of course sauces. Add a nice bottle of red wine – you’re good.

At the beginning of this post, I mentioned a fantastic dining experience. Here you go.

Matur Og Drykkur

This was our ‘splurge’ meal experience.

Truthfully, I didn’t ask Eric the price because I didn’t want to know the price. They serve a 10-course dinner experience offering the freshest and best ingredients at any given time and create a unique dining experience. It was worth it!

The first four courses were these small bites.

Left – cheese and rowanberries Right – halibut and angelica

Next two plates served are below. Not enough to fill you up, leaving room for the remaining courses.

Left – monkfish liver spread with dulse seaweed crackers. Right – rutabaga and goat cheese tartlets

This next food to arrive was one of the most unassuming and amazing things we ate that evening. The chefs forage wild herbs and mushrooms as well as collaborate with local farmers to obtain the best ingredients. The brown bowls were a concentrated (locally-foraged) mushroom broth with a touch of soy sauce and vinegar. OMG!!! More great food arrived but the simplicity, the taste and the preparation for this course………to this day, we are still talking about it. At this point, I could have asked for another bowl of this heavenly broth and been done for the evening. Yes, it was that good.

When I saw this on the prix fix menu, it made me nervous. As long as I blocked out what it was……………..it was really tasty. All was gone off my plate.

Lamb heart, malt, black pressed garlic and kohlrabi

This was probably my least favorite bite and the only thing I didn’t finish. The flavors were fine but not appealing to me.

Smoked haddock, onion, celeriac mash and rye bread crumbles.

The next protein course I enjoyed, but…………….I was starting to get full.

Reindeer, beetroot, reindeer moss and pomace.

Before any food arrived after we sat down, our server told us about a ‘chef special’. She got half-way through the description, and I already knew we would be saying ‘Yes!’.

Fire!

Then this was brought to our table. So really, instead of a 10-course meal, we had an 11-course meal with the special.

Cod head – poached then roasted before coming to the table. Yes, I tried some – but I was getting full. The other two, cleaned all of the meat from it. The waitress commented they truly knew how to pick every last morsel from the bones.

We have eaten a LOT of food. But wait, there’s more. The final dessert plates.

Bottom left – Artic thyme, crowberries and cold pressed rapeseed oil. Bottom Right – Kleinur, caramelized whey and cardamon. Top – It wasn’t on the menu, but came to the table. Tasted like pressed caramelized sugar.

Upon entering the dining area, this area is set up, kind of like a shrine. Why? The red cookbook inspired the restaurant and its offerings. It was the first ever published cookbook printed in Icelandic, 1922. It means Food and Drink – hence the name of the restaurant.

These recipes were old and traditional yet simple recipes using ingredients available at that time.

Would I do it again – absolutely! We were stuffed but happy during our walk back to our apartment.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #5

by ginnyinshanghai

The downtown part of Reykjavik was an easy city to walk and I’ve always felt safe. I split off from the other two to re-visit some of my favorite places. Sun Voyager was one of those.

The city of Reykjavik wanted to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city with a new outdoor sculpture. A contest was held and Jon Gunnar Arnason’s concept was chosen with the sculpture unveiled in 1990.

It is constructed of stainless steel and sits on a circle of granite slabs. The sculptor wanted everyone who came to Reykjavik to see this metal ship and imagine where they could travel with it. It is located to the north of the capital on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

The artist intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of a Viking ship honoring Iceland’s history and sea-faring tradition. This shot gives you a small part of Reykjavik’s cityscape.

While the sculpture sits along the water, a short distance away was one of their iconic venues – The Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center.

Construction started 2007 in the area but was temporarily abandoned in 2008 when Iceland’s financial crisis took hold. The original plan was to include a hotel, retail & office space and apartments. Later that year, the governor decided to fully fund the half-built concert hall with the other elements on hold.

The first concert played in the building was The Iceland Symphany Orchestra in 2011. This group eventually made The Harpa their home.

The glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and consists of 714 LED lights.

They have concerts, exhibitions, children’s events, conferences, markets and more. I looked at their upcoming event schedule and man (!) there are some events I wish I was there to see.

Inside was a gift shop and cafe with seating along the glass walls. It is on my ever-changing bucket list to attend a concert when visiting Reykjavik.

In front of the venue was this statue.

The Musician. This Icelandic sculpture was at the previous home of the Icelandic Orchestra and when this became their home base, they brought it with them. Nice.

What is behind The Harpa? This yellow lighthouse and entrance into the port. These were the same waters the Sun Voyager oversees.

Also gave me the opportunity for un obstructed view of the water and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the western part of Iceland. A part of Iceland that is still on my bucket list to explore.

We drove through part of it in May but at that point, we were nearing the end of our Ring Road adventure and ready to get back to Reykjavik. The Snaefellsjokull volcano resides here and on clear days can be seen from Reykjavik, 75 miles away.

There was one thing happening in Reykjavik that I haven’t mentioned – Iceland Airwaves Music Festival.

The first festival was held in 1999 as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at Reykjavik Airport. In 2018, 50% of the performers were female, making the festival one of the first to include gender equality in its lineup. Their main focus is showcasing new music, both Icelandic and international. We did look at ticket prices, but they seemed steep. One evening Eric heard a group from the Faroe Islands in a local bar. He really enjoyed them.

What else is really cool (ha, ha) about Iceland this time of year? Christmas!

They don’t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the states, so there’s no back& forth or discussion when Christmas lights should (or should not) go up. They were wrapping the trees in the square in front of us during our visit. You can barely see the worker in the upper left corner in a high reach finishing up this tree.

I was hoping to see the Icelandic Christmas Cat or Yule Cat as mentioned in their folklore, but alas did not. We did see the statue in November 2019 if you read those blog posts…………………or goggle it.

I want to end this post with flowers. Some were seen in the greenhouse we visited, and others were part of the landscape. Enjoy.

Still have a few more Icelandic posts to write.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #4

by ginnyinshanghai

We headed out of town for the day’s experiences. Sunrise was 9:32am. That was an adjustment for us. Getting dark at 4:49 pm was much easier to absorb.

Once we turned off road 1 (ring road) the traffic was non-existent. And the sun has risen and blue skies with a few wispy clouds started the day.

Our second thermal pool experience for this trip! Of course, it’s not much of a secret if it is an optional add-on for those on the ‘Golden Circle’ tour.

It is called the oldest swimming pool in Iceland, dating back to 1891. The mineral- rich natural resources of the warm water from the nearby hot springs makes this special. The water flows continuously and replaces the volume in 24 hours.

In 1909 the first swimming lessons in Iceland occurred here and the pool was in continuous use through 1947, after which it fell into oblivion. 2005 the idea was raised to bring it back for a second life. make it more comfortable but keep the authenticity. It re-opened in 2014. We had visited this location in 2019 and noticed updates on this visit. Ten days this year it was closed for a rehab, not changing anything major but upgrading the existing facilities – very nice improvements.

These two found a niche in the back corner and never moved. The building behind them was the original spring house.

The bottom is pebbly with a few larger rocks intermingled. Some got creative stacking the rocks.

I wandered to the other side of the pool checking out the (cold) fountain of water piped in.

Overall, the pool was lightly attended. There for a brief time a tour bus arrived and approx. 10 joined us in the pool. When they left, less than 6 remained in the water. Nope, the other two haven’t really moved.

These pools have lifeguards. Seeing that listed as job experience on a resume would seem strange……..unless you were somewhat knowledgeable about Iceland.

My little sheep made an appearance. Unfortunately, he also got dunked.

There’s a wooden walkway surrounding the pool. That water is HOT coming straight out of the ground. About 30 feet away flows a large creek with some of the hot water making it’s way there.

Another new addition to Secret Lagoon was their lager. A beer that tastes like beer – I like it. Eric stayed with water since he was still driving to our next destination on today’s journey.

Fridheimar Greenhouses and Tomato Farm

The greenhouses have been growing tomatoes since 1946. The current owners purchased the property in 1995 and have continued to grow, expand, upgrade and offer experiences.

They started with 1 full time employee and have 70+ now. They utilized the 2020 Covid pandemic to upgrade their employee facilities and greenhouses along with another offering for food & drink: Winebar & Bistro.

The Restaurant is available noon to 4pm daily and reservations were needed. It was a 10 minute drive from the Secret Lagoon so we stopped in at their new spot until it was time.

Sat at the bar and ordered a few munchies to nibble on with the wine.

I’m not necessarily a fan of cherry tomatoes – too much skin for too little fruit – but these were some of the most flavorful cherry tomatoes I had eaten!

While we didn’t eat here this would be an option if reservations had not been available in their main restaurant.

Time for our lunch reservation!

The tables were spaced around the tomato growing area.

The menu was simple……………tomato soup is the star. You can add protein options and this time I saw a pasta with tomato sauce available, but primarily everyone was there for the soup.

We ordered an appetizer off the menu, Icelandic burrata cheese with heirloom tomatoes.

There are several buffets set up throughout the eating area holding the vats of tomato soup and the BREAD.

OMG the bread. Adrienne has been talking about that bread for 5 years when her and I visited in 2019.

On everyone’s table was this arrangement of fresh basil, sour cream, shredded cucumbers and butter if one choose to add to their bowl of soup.

Eric and Adrienne ordered bloody marys. Eric’s base tomato component was green tomato (left).

After the meal we walked around their tomato production.

They import bees from the Netherlands to pollinate the tomatoes which arrived in specialized boxes. Some were on display as part of their educational focus of their facility.

They had a small gift shop with some of their tomato products available for purchase.

This was the most amazing item (to me) in their gift shop. They had packaged a strand of tomatoes carefully in specially designed boxes with each cherry tomato cushioned. Wow!

All too soon it was time to drive back to the city.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #3

by ginnyinshanghai

Let’s talk (and eat) Icelandic food!

Before our ‘Funky History Walking Tour’ we stopped in at a nearby cafe for breakfast. We needed to fuel up before walking the town.

Cafe Loki – homemade traditional Icelandic food in the heart of Reykjavik.

Bagel with cream cheese and chives for me.
Homemade rye bread with egg and herring or smoked fish for Adrienne.
Homemade rye bread with cold-smoked trout for Eric.

Posthus Matholl Food Hall

Nestled in the heart of the city, it was more than your average food hall. It stands as a testament to the city’s culinary diversity and vibrancy. Locals and visitors like ourselves continued to converge upon this eating establishment when you need a little something to nibble on.

Another advantage to a food hall…..it allows us each to order different types of foods. Can’t believe that Eric ordered a hamburger! The fries were some of the best. We kept sneaking some throughout the evening.

PIzza! That was my choice. It looked good, smelled good and was mighty tasty.

Adrienne ordered salmon. She won according to Eric. She said the fish was cooked perfectly.

Wine and beer (for me) accompanied our meal that evening.

Even though it was cold (and windy), lots of walking, shopping and touring continued. A nearby brewery was a good stop to warm up and grab some salty snacks.

We had stopped in during previous visits and our beer selections were local brews. Every food stop always included a bottle of Icelandic water no matter where we landed, and the brewery was no exception. Ice was rarely available as typical of European locales. That little bowl of salty goodness – delicious! We were fighting over the last few crumbs after getting a second bowl.

Here they are solving world problems………………or the next place to eat. 🙂 That afternoon, we had the place to ourselves.

A misty sprinkle turned into a solid rain and we ducked into this establishment along one of the main roads – Messinn Seafood Restaurant. Five years ago this was part of a walking food tour and we hadn’t returned, until now. They specialize in ‘fish pans’ which are served with freshly cooked fish straight from the kitchen, together with butter-fried potatoes and vegetables.

Eric choose the ‘Cod Tung’ fish pan which are really fish ‘cheeks’. He’s seen similar along the Gulf coast but the cold water makes the meat fatty – which he loves.

While Adrienne selected Artic Char fish pan.

The damp weather had me eyeing their langoustine fish soup topped with a dollop of cream – perfect for the day. Can’t forget the bread basket.

The last restaurant for this post was literally around the corner from our apartment – Icelandic Street Food.

Screenshot

It was billed as flavorful food for a reasonable price in downtown Reykjavik offering traditional Icelandic meat soup. Their website indicates it was the first fast food concept in Iceland with traditional Icelandic food. It is a family-owned business with recipes made from their grandmother.

Order was placed at the counter with your name called once they were ready to serve you. The vats of soup were right along the bar – which was our chosen seating, right in the middle of the action.

Eric photo-bombed my shot as we were waiting. I selected the Einstok White Ale that evening.

An option was to have your soup served in a bread bowl…..which I did for my order of lamb soup which also included potatoes, carrots and root vegetables.

Eric selected the Shellfish soup with the broth made from langoustine and included Icelandic scallops and shrimps.

Did I mention that refills were free?

Along one wall a small self-serving station had this notice:

Yikes! It was a zoo. They couldn’t make the waffles fast enough. Customers were coming to the counter as they came off the iron – but were told to wait until it came to the station. A sprinkle of sugar or fruit jam was available to top them and add a touch of sweetness.

This was the night originally booked for our Northern LIghts tour – not happening.

They sent us a cancellation email 2+ hours before departure and the opportunity to rebook. Looking at the upcoming week’s forecast, we choose Friday evening, our last night in Iceland. We’ll see – or not.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024, #2

by ginnyinshanghai

Booking with AirBNB, sets you up to receive ‘suggestions’ for other activities. Eric got a notice for this local company ‘Funky Iceland’ and booked us the ‘Funky History Walk with a Local Storyteller’. Their guides take you through 1150 years of Icelandic history and the fight for surival, freedom and tolerance. These values continue to shape its liberal attitudes today. BTW – the rainbow painted on the street is considered ‘street art’. More on that further in the post.

We met at the Viking statue, in front of the Hallgrimskirkja church. We walked the area earlier and I shot these night-time photos of the church.

The tour allowed us to go inside and the history lessons started. The vaulted ceiling was truly awe-inspiring.

Turn around 180 degrees, look up to see their massive organ.

With all of the tourists around, there was a small chapel in the corner for individual solitude and prayers.

Interesting thing about their seating. The backs can be moved to face the pulpit or face the organ, locking in place for musical concerts.

Across the street was our next stop……a sculpture garden holding the work of Einer Jonsson. Also a great spot to capture the church from another angle.

He is often called the first Icelandic sculptor, gaining international attention. The Icelandic Parliament agreed to build a home for him and his wife in exchange for the donation of his collection after his death in 1954. Walking the gardens was free for all to visit, containing 20+ pieces of his art.

In honor of the upcoming holiday season………

We continued the tour through nearby residential areas and I came across street art or murals that caught my eye. Most references to street art date to 2015 when Iceland Airwaves/Uran nation collaborated for ‘Wall Poetry’. Not exactly true as street art was firmly entrenched as of 2009. ‘Tagging and vandalism occurs everywhere, but street art has much more structure around its concept.

Some are a bit more abstract than others. Some are commissioned and many are on private property.

Check the internet as there are guided and self-guided tours of Reykjavik Street art.

As we meandered to the bottom of the hill, the destination was City Hall that housed a giant relief of Iceland.

Alas, we walked in, and it was gone. There were chairs and a runway set up for a future event. The map sets upon rollers and can be rolled into a holding space when events were planned. I did my own internet research and discovered the map is based upon 1948 U.S. Army map series and was started in 1985. It is composed of 1mm thick cardboard cut along the contour lines of the maps. The are glued, stapled or nailed as needed.

Found this photo on the internet after a lot of searching since we didn’t see it in person.

What we did encounter was a protest! Really? Really!. A quiet (indoor) spot for the guide to talk history kept getting louder and full of small children. Then the parents brought out instruments of noise for their children – whatever they obviously had at home. We asked one of the adults what was going on……………………….schoolteachers were protesting for their wages. Power to the people!

The media showed up and was doing a few interviews.

It got too loud for conversation, so we headed for our last stop, an Icelandic tradition…….Icelandic hotdogs. This spot is the most ‘famous’ location for hot dogs. Yep, it is outside in a small square. What makes their hot dogs special? The main ingredients are lamb, beef and pork, mixed in a specific ratio. The recipe includes salt, paprika, pepper, garlic, onion, coriander and other seasonings.

Throughout our visit – no matter the time of day – they had a line and people eating their dogs outside. It was a thing. Besides being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture.

Getting a hot day ‘all the way’ included fresh onions, fried onions, sweet mustard, remoulade sauce and ketchup. No ketchup for Eric. No sweet mustard for me. Loved the fried onions which added a bit of crunch. Yum.

We enjoyed the tour and the guide. He started this venture with a few like-minded friends, and they continue to grow it. His tour had good ratings and another good one from us.

Ginny