Tag: iceland

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #7

by ginnyinshanghai

Besides the food, we had two traditional yet classic Icelandic experiences. First up, a thermal pool.

Sky Lagoon

Opened in 2021, this oceanside geothermal lagoon demonstrated the commitment to sustainability as their water sources is fueled by the country’s 600 natural hot springs. Their building techniques and building supplies were sourced intentionally and sustainable. BTW – almost every home in Iceland is heated with geothermal power.

Soaking in the warm, mineral-rich geothermal water is a beloved Icelandic tradition. We made two separate visits to the Sky Lagoon during our stay. Coming into the reception area you begin to soak in the ambience and relax.

There is ‘spa etiquette’ that everyone should be aware of and follow.

>Remove your shoes before entering the changing facilities.

>Locate a locker, store personal items inside, locking with your wristband that also serves to purchase food and refreshments.

>Shower your body, sans clothing with soap and warm water to keep the pools clean. Yes, some places have private showers, others do not. We have done both types. First time showering in front of other females felt odd, after that, no big deal. Think high school gym class when you had to shower……… only these are MUCH, MUCH, MUCH nicer showers!

>Put on your bathing suit before leaving the changing room to head to the geothermal water.

Find your spot to enjoy the warm waters and peaceful surroundings.

At the back of the above photo you can see a waterfall. We both enjoyed the spray. Me, not quite as close as Eric. 🙂

Earlier I mentioned ‘oceanside’………..the 75 metre infinity edge of the lagoon was a gathering spot for all.

Did I also mention they have a walk up/swim up bar? Your wristband serves as your payment method.

With your entrance, you are able to participate in ‘The Ritual’. This is an opportunity to slow down, take your time and experience a deeper healing journey through all of your senses.

Not going to lie. The only part of me that ‘plunged’ into the cold pool was the few inches up to my ankle. The photo on the right you can slightly see the rounded edge of the cold plunge spot.

Walking into the turf house, the next step was the sauna.

I could not spend many minutes in this part before I felt like was cooking.

This was a ‘cool’ spot. Ha, Ha! Mist sprays were slowly occurring as you walked into and out of this area.

Totally loved the next step in the ritual

They didn’t mind being in my photo.

Take as much time as you want to exfoliate.

You’re all salty, oily and it’s time to walk into the steam chamber.

Not too much to see in the steam room…………………….

You’re almost finished with the ritual and yes, slightly dehydrated.

Herbs in the elixir
Very tasty and refreshing drink.

Alas, time to brave the chilly air and winds to head back out to the geothermal lagoon.

What’s left to do after all that? Enjoy the relaxing pool. We visited this place twice during our visit. Below is a short video of the second visit – it was VERY windy (and I was in a protected area – Yikes!).

Would we do it again? A.b.s.o.l.u.t.e.l.y. Our first day in Iceland after arriving, we visited and our last full day in Iceland we went back again.

We exit the building and……………….

After some light refreshments to fuel and rehydrate, we drove the 15 minutes back to our apartment.

Oh man – wish I was back there now.

At the beginning I indicated we had 2 traditional Icelandic experiences. What was the other one?

Aurora Borealis – The Northern Lights

All our research indicated the best way to seeing the Northern Lights……booking a guided tour.

I follow several Instagrammers from Iceland and one company stood out – Artic Adventures. If your first foray with them doesn’t work out to see the Northern Lights, you can rebook another night, and another night, with your reservation good for 3 years (no refunds) until you see the lights.

Their reviews were fabulous. Rebooking did occur and still the reviews had positive things to say. We booked them. We also choose a day early in our vacation in case it didn’t work out. And it didn’t. If cloud cover or rain is forecast, the tour is canceled by 6:15pm (pick up was 8:30pm) and you can rebook. We looked at our remaining days in Iceland and the Friday night looked the best option – not great, but better than the other days of the week.

Here’s the radar that night. Our guide (also the driver) felt he could find us a window north of the city.

Our group of 18 was in an elongated super jeep. One couple on the tour had rebooked 2 other times that week and been canceled due to cloud cover. One criteria was to get away from the city and subsequent light pollution. We drove 40+ minutes before he stopped, talked with other guides and pulled off onto dirt roads. Yes, we needed the super jeep.

I had done my reading and truly did understand the lights tended to be ‘white fuzz’ to the naked eye. The camera on your smart phone could filter out that light and still give you a decent photo.

My first viewing, not really impressed.

Second photo I could faintly see pink and green.

Okay, things are getting a bit better. Definitely seeing streaks of green.

And then the money shot.

I will continue to be on the hunt for ‘dancing’ northern lights, but I’m good for now.

I plan to be back. Why? The unparalleled scenery, the abundant natural beauty, the thermal pools, the delicious food, the wide-open spaces and vast areas of untouched wilderness.

On my first visit in 2019, I found this street art on one of their buildings. I was hoping we could find it again. We did. This is why we travel:

We need to collect -great- moments. This is my last post for the 2024 Icelandic visit. Hope you enjoyed our activities and learned a bit more about the land of Fire & Ice.

Ginny, Eric & Adrienne

Reykjavik Winter #6

by ginnyinshanghai

More food and a f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.c dining experience.

This was really one of the few times we stayed at an apartment and did no cooking or noshing. We primarily used our kitchen space for morning coffee and drinks.

Why was that? Soooooo many food options within easy walking distance! Let’s continue to explore the Icelandic food scene.

The Laundrymat Cafe

First meal of the day – breakfast. This establishment was approx. 1/2 block from our apartment. Easy walking even in windy conditions.

It had your basic breakfast options. That’s okay, that’s what we wanted.

Maybe the blood mary wasn’t the norm……………….but who’s judging.

What was in the basement, yep, a laundromat.

This place was quite popular and by the time we left, fairly full. And it was another windy day in Iceland – just saying. Some days, you needed to hold onto your hat!

Old Iceland Restaurant

Established in 2014, their focus was to highlight Icelandic produce. They use herbs and spices from the mountains of Iceland. A lunch option one afternoon was this spot. On the outside it was a quiet unassuming place, but their small plates had quite an artistic flair and flavors were punched up.

Between all of us, every meal someone ordered soup. Soup is good for the soul and for the body – another way to keep warm. Of course, you needed to accompany it with bread. 🙂

Shellfish Soup

Soup only goes so far and occasionally heartier choices was needed.

Cured salmon, rye bread crumble, smoked roe and dill oil.
Arctic char fish, confit potatoes and roasted peppers with accompanying greens.

Posthous Food Hall

This was a great stop if we needed a little something to share, a chance to duck in out of the rain & wind and still enjoy the vibe of Reykjavik.

This sushi bento box was our pick one evening. We had a large lunch but wanted a little bit something that night. This was perfect to share. By the time we left Iceland, I believe we had tasted something from most of the food stations inside this establishment! LOVE food halls!

Kopar – Reykjavik’s Old Harbor

At Kopar, they aim to provide an Icelandic dining experience that pays homage to traditional ingredients, while also surprising their guests. In their kitchen, the ingredients provide the inspiration, and the chefs follow their years of experience to deliver something new. It works!

Soups! Perfect for a rainy wintry evening.

Creamy tomato soup with aioli
Rock crab soup

Followed that with Artic char fish with tasty veggies and of course sauces. Add a nice bottle of red wine – you’re good.

At the beginning of this post, I mentioned a fantastic dining experience. Here you go.

Matur Og Drykkur

This was our ‘splurge’ meal experience.

Truthfully, I didn’t ask Eric the price because I didn’t want to know the price. They serve a 10-course dinner experience offering the freshest and best ingredients at any given time and create a unique dining experience. It was worth it!

The first four courses were these small bites.

Left – cheese and rowanberries Right – halibut and angelica

Next two plates served are below. Not enough to fill you up, leaving room for the remaining courses.

Left – monkfish liver spread with dulse seaweed crackers. Right – rutabaga and goat cheese tartlets

This next food to arrive was one of the most unassuming and amazing things we ate that evening. The chefs forage wild herbs and mushrooms as well as collaborate with local farmers to obtain the best ingredients. The brown bowls were a concentrated (locally-foraged) mushroom broth with a touch of soy sauce and vinegar. OMG!!! More great food arrived but the simplicity, the taste and the preparation for this course………to this day, we are still talking about it. At this point, I could have asked for another bowl of this heavenly broth and been done for the evening. Yes, it was that good.

When I saw this on the prix fix menu, it made me nervous. As long as I blocked out what it was……………..it was really tasty. All was gone off my plate.

Lamb heart, malt, black pressed garlic and kohlrabi

This was probably my least favorite bite and the only thing I didn’t finish. The flavors were fine but not appealing to me.

Smoked haddock, onion, celeriac mash and rye bread crumbles.

The next protein course I enjoyed, but…………….I was starting to get full.

Reindeer, beetroot, reindeer moss and pomace.

Before any food arrived after we sat down, our server told us about a ‘chef special’. She got half-way through the description, and I already knew we would be saying ‘Yes!’.

Fire!

Then this was brought to our table. So really, instead of a 10-course meal, we had an 11-course meal with the special.

Cod head – poached then roasted before coming to the table. Yes, I tried some – but I was getting full. The other two, cleaned all of the meat from it. The waitress commented they truly knew how to pick every last morsel from the bones.

We have eaten a LOT of food. But wait, there’s more. The final dessert plates.

Bottom left – Artic thyme, crowberries and cold pressed rapeseed oil. Bottom Right – Kleinur, caramelized whey and cardamon. Top – It wasn’t on the menu, but came to the table. Tasted like pressed caramelized sugar.

Upon entering the dining area, this area is set up, kind of like a shrine. Why? The red cookbook inspired the restaurant and its offerings. It was the first ever published cookbook printed in Icelandic, 1922. It means Food and Drink – hence the name of the restaurant.

These recipes were old and traditional yet simple recipes using ingredients available at that time.

Would I do it again – absolutely! We were stuffed but happy during our walk back to our apartment.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #5

by ginnyinshanghai

The downtown part of Reykjavik was an easy city to walk and I’ve always felt safe. I split off from the other two to re-visit some of my favorite places. Sun Voyager was one of those.

The city of Reykjavik wanted to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the city with a new outdoor sculpture. A contest was held and Jon Gunnar Arnason’s concept was chosen with the sculpture unveiled in 1990.

It is constructed of stainless steel and sits on a circle of granite slabs. The sculptor wanted everyone who came to Reykjavik to see this metal ship and imagine where they could travel with it. It is located to the north of the capital on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean.

The artist intended to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom. It is simple yet elegant, reminiscent of a Viking ship honoring Iceland’s history and sea-faring tradition. This shot gives you a small part of Reykjavik’s cityscape.

While the sculpture sits along the water, a short distance away was one of their iconic venues – The Harpa Concert Hall & Conference Center.

Construction started 2007 in the area but was temporarily abandoned in 2008 when Iceland’s financial crisis took hold. The original plan was to include a hotel, retail & office space and apartments. Later that year, the governor decided to fully fund the half-built concert hall with the other elements on hold.

The first concert played in the building was The Iceland Symphany Orchestra in 2011. This group eventually made The Harpa their home.

The glass facade was inspired by the basalt landscape of Iceland and consists of 714 LED lights.

They have concerts, exhibitions, children’s events, conferences, markets and more. I looked at their upcoming event schedule and man (!) there are some events I wish I was there to see.

Inside was a gift shop and cafe with seating along the glass walls. It is on my ever-changing bucket list to attend a concert when visiting Reykjavik.

In front of the venue was this statue.

The Musician. This Icelandic sculpture was at the previous home of the Icelandic Orchestra and when this became their home base, they brought it with them. Nice.

What is behind The Harpa? This yellow lighthouse and entrance into the port. These were the same waters the Sun Voyager oversees.

Also gave me the opportunity for un obstructed view of the water and the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the western part of Iceland. A part of Iceland that is still on my bucket list to explore.

We drove through part of it in May but at that point, we were nearing the end of our Ring Road adventure and ready to get back to Reykjavik. The Snaefellsjokull volcano resides here and on clear days can be seen from Reykjavik, 75 miles away.

There was one thing happening in Reykjavik that I haven’t mentioned – Iceland Airwaves Music Festival.

The first festival was held in 1999 as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at Reykjavik Airport. In 2018, 50% of the performers were female, making the festival one of the first to include gender equality in its lineup. Their main focus is showcasing new music, both Icelandic and international. We did look at ticket prices, but they seemed steep. One evening Eric heard a group from the Faroe Islands in a local bar. He really enjoyed them.

What else is really cool (ha, ha) about Iceland this time of year? Christmas!

They don’t celebrate Thanksgiving like we do in the states, so there’s no back& forth or discussion when Christmas lights should (or should not) go up. They were wrapping the trees in the square in front of us during our visit. You can barely see the worker in the upper left corner in a high reach finishing up this tree.

I was hoping to see the Icelandic Christmas Cat or Yule Cat as mentioned in their folklore, but alas did not. We did see the statue in November 2019 if you read those blog posts…………………or goggle it.

I want to end this post with flowers. Some were seen in the greenhouse we visited, and others were part of the landscape. Enjoy.

Still have a few more Icelandic posts to write.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #4

by ginnyinshanghai

We headed out of town for the day’s experiences. Sunrise was 9:32am. That was an adjustment for us. Getting dark at 4:49 pm was much easier to absorb.

Once we turned off road 1 (ring road) the traffic was non-existent. And the sun has risen and blue skies with a few wispy clouds started the day.

Our second thermal pool experience for this trip! Of course, it’s not much of a secret if it is an optional add-on for those on the ‘Golden Circle’ tour.

It is called the oldest swimming pool in Iceland, dating back to 1891. The mineral- rich natural resources of the warm water from the nearby hot springs makes this special. The water flows continuously and replaces the volume in 24 hours.

In 1909 the first swimming lessons in Iceland occurred here and the pool was in continuous use through 1947, after which it fell into oblivion. 2005 the idea was raised to bring it back for a second life. make it more comfortable but keep the authenticity. It re-opened in 2014. We had visited this location in 2019 and noticed updates on this visit. Ten days this year it was closed for a rehab, not changing anything major but upgrading the existing facilities – very nice improvements.

These two found a niche in the back corner and never moved. The building behind them was the original spring house.

The bottom is pebbly with a few larger rocks intermingled. Some got creative stacking the rocks.

I wandered to the other side of the pool checking out the (cold) fountain of water piped in.

Overall, the pool was lightly attended. There for a brief time a tour bus arrived and approx. 10 joined us in the pool. When they left, less than 6 remained in the water. Nope, the other two haven’t really moved.

These pools have lifeguards. Seeing that listed as job experience on a resume would seem strange……..unless you were somewhat knowledgeable about Iceland.

My little sheep made an appearance. Unfortunately, he also got dunked.

There’s a wooden walkway surrounding the pool. That water is HOT coming straight out of the ground. About 30 feet away flows a large creek with some of the hot water making it’s way there.

Another new addition to Secret Lagoon was their lager. A beer that tastes like beer – I like it. Eric stayed with water since he was still driving to our next destination on today’s journey.

Fridheimar Greenhouses and Tomato Farm

The greenhouses have been growing tomatoes since 1946. The current owners purchased the property in 1995 and have continued to grow, expand, upgrade and offer experiences.

They started with 1 full time employee and have 70+ now. They utilized the 2020 Covid pandemic to upgrade their employee facilities and greenhouses along with another offering for food & drink: Winebar & Bistro.

The Restaurant is available noon to 4pm daily and reservations were needed. It was a 10 minute drive from the Secret Lagoon so we stopped in at their new spot until it was time.

Sat at the bar and ordered a few munchies to nibble on with the wine.

I’m not necessarily a fan of cherry tomatoes – too much skin for too little fruit – but these were some of the most flavorful cherry tomatoes I had eaten!

While we didn’t eat here this would be an option if reservations had not been available in their main restaurant.

Time for our lunch reservation!

The tables were spaced around the tomato growing area.

The menu was simple……………tomato soup is the star. You can add protein options and this time I saw a pasta with tomato sauce available, but primarily everyone was there for the soup.

We ordered an appetizer off the menu, Icelandic burrata cheese with heirloom tomatoes.

There are several buffets set up throughout the eating area holding the vats of tomato soup and the BREAD.

OMG the bread. Adrienne has been talking about that bread for 5 years when her and I visited in 2019.

On everyone’s table was this arrangement of fresh basil, sour cream, shredded cucumbers and butter if one choose to add to their bowl of soup.

Eric and Adrienne ordered bloody marys. Eric’s base tomato component was green tomato (left).

After the meal we walked around their tomato production.

They import bees from the Netherlands to pollinate the tomatoes which arrived in specialized boxes. Some were on display as part of their educational focus of their facility.

They had a small gift shop with some of their tomato products available for purchase.

This was the most amazing item (to me) in their gift shop. They had packaged a strand of tomatoes carefully in specially designed boxes with each cherry tomato cushioned. Wow!

All too soon it was time to drive back to the city.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024 #3

by ginnyinshanghai

Let’s talk (and eat) Icelandic food!

Before our ‘Funky History Walking Tour’ we stopped in at a nearby cafe for breakfast. We needed to fuel up before walking the town.

Cafe Loki – homemade traditional Icelandic food in the heart of Reykjavik.

Bagel with cream cheese and chives for me.
Homemade rye bread with egg and herring or smoked fish for Adrienne.
Homemade rye bread with cold-smoked trout for Eric.

Posthus Matholl Food Hall

Nestled in the heart of the city, it was more than your average food hall. It stands as a testament to the city’s culinary diversity and vibrancy. Locals and visitors like ourselves continued to converge upon this eating establishment when you need a little something to nibble on.

Another advantage to a food hall…..it allows us each to order different types of foods. Can’t believe that Eric ordered a hamburger! The fries were some of the best. We kept sneaking some throughout the evening.

PIzza! That was my choice. It looked good, smelled good and was mighty tasty.

Adrienne ordered salmon. She won according to Eric. She said the fish was cooked perfectly.

Wine and beer (for me) accompanied our meal that evening.

Even though it was cold (and windy), lots of walking, shopping and touring continued. A nearby brewery was a good stop to warm up and grab some salty snacks.

We had stopped in during previous visits and our beer selections were local brews. Every food stop always included a bottle of Icelandic water no matter where we landed, and the brewery was no exception. Ice was rarely available as typical of European locales. That little bowl of salty goodness – delicious! We were fighting over the last few crumbs after getting a second bowl.

Here they are solving world problems………………or the next place to eat. 🙂 That afternoon, we had the place to ourselves.

A misty sprinkle turned into a solid rain and we ducked into this establishment along one of the main roads – Messinn Seafood Restaurant. Five years ago this was part of a walking food tour and we hadn’t returned, until now. They specialize in ‘fish pans’ which are served with freshly cooked fish straight from the kitchen, together with butter-fried potatoes and vegetables.

Eric choose the ‘Cod Tung’ fish pan which are really fish ‘cheeks’. He’s seen similar along the Gulf coast but the cold water makes the meat fatty – which he loves.

While Adrienne selected Artic Char fish pan.

The damp weather had me eyeing their langoustine fish soup topped with a dollop of cream – perfect for the day. Can’t forget the bread basket.

The last restaurant for this post was literally around the corner from our apartment – Icelandic Street Food.

Screenshot

It was billed as flavorful food for a reasonable price in downtown Reykjavik offering traditional Icelandic meat soup. Their website indicates it was the first fast food concept in Iceland with traditional Icelandic food. It is a family-owned business with recipes made from their grandmother.

Order was placed at the counter with your name called once they were ready to serve you. The vats of soup were right along the bar – which was our chosen seating, right in the middle of the action.

Eric photo-bombed my shot as we were waiting. I selected the Einstok White Ale that evening.

An option was to have your soup served in a bread bowl…..which I did for my order of lamb soup which also included potatoes, carrots and root vegetables.

Eric selected the Shellfish soup with the broth made from langoustine and included Icelandic scallops and shrimps.

Did I mention that refills were free?

Along one wall a small self-serving station had this notice:

Yikes! It was a zoo. They couldn’t make the waffles fast enough. Customers were coming to the counter as they came off the iron – but were told to wait until it came to the station. A sprinkle of sugar or fruit jam was available to top them and add a touch of sweetness.

This was the night originally booked for our Northern LIghts tour – not happening.

They sent us a cancellation email 2+ hours before departure and the opportunity to rebook. Looking at the upcoming week’s forecast, we choose Friday evening, our last night in Iceland. We’ll see – or not.

Ginny

Reykjavik Winter 2024, #2

by ginnyinshanghai

Booking with AirBNB, sets you up to receive ‘suggestions’ for other activities. Eric got a notice for this local company ‘Funky Iceland’ and booked us the ‘Funky History Walk with a Local Storyteller’. Their guides take you through 1150 years of Icelandic history and the fight for surival, freedom and tolerance. These values continue to shape its liberal attitudes today. BTW – the rainbow painted on the street is considered ‘street art’. More on that further in the post.

We met at the Viking statue, in front of the Hallgrimskirkja church. We walked the area earlier and I shot these night-time photos of the church.

The tour allowed us to go inside and the history lessons started. The vaulted ceiling was truly awe-inspiring.

Turn around 180 degrees, look up to see their massive organ.

With all of the tourists around, there was a small chapel in the corner for individual solitude and prayers.

Interesting thing about their seating. The backs can be moved to face the pulpit or face the organ, locking in place for musical concerts.

Across the street was our next stop……a sculpture garden holding the work of Einer Jonsson. Also a great spot to capture the church from another angle.

He is often called the first Icelandic sculptor, gaining international attention. The Icelandic Parliament agreed to build a home for him and his wife in exchange for the donation of his collection after his death in 1954. Walking the gardens was free for all to visit, containing 20+ pieces of his art.

In honor of the upcoming holiday season………

We continued the tour through nearby residential areas and I came across street art or murals that caught my eye. Most references to street art date to 2015 when Iceland Airwaves/Uran nation collaborated for ‘Wall Poetry’. Not exactly true as street art was firmly entrenched as of 2009. ‘Tagging and vandalism occurs everywhere, but street art has much more structure around its concept.

Some are a bit more abstract than others. Some are commissioned and many are on private property.

Check the internet as there are guided and self-guided tours of Reykjavik Street art.

As we meandered to the bottom of the hill, the destination was City Hall that housed a giant relief of Iceland.

Alas, we walked in, and it was gone. There were chairs and a runway set up for a future event. The map sets upon rollers and can be rolled into a holding space when events were planned. I did my own internet research and discovered the map is based upon 1948 U.S. Army map series and was started in 1985. It is composed of 1mm thick cardboard cut along the contour lines of the maps. The are glued, stapled or nailed as needed.

Found this photo on the internet after a lot of searching since we didn’t see it in person.

What we did encounter was a protest! Really? Really!. A quiet (indoor) spot for the guide to talk history kept getting louder and full of small children. Then the parents brought out instruments of noise for their children – whatever they obviously had at home. We asked one of the adults what was going on……………………….schoolteachers were protesting for their wages. Power to the people!

The media showed up and was doing a few interviews.

It got too loud for conversation, so we headed for our last stop, an Icelandic tradition…….Icelandic hotdogs. This spot is the most ‘famous’ location for hot dogs. Yep, it is outside in a small square. What makes their hot dogs special? The main ingredients are lamb, beef and pork, mixed in a specific ratio. The recipe includes salt, paprika, pepper, garlic, onion, coriander and other seasonings.

Throughout our visit – no matter the time of day – they had a line and people eating their dogs outside. It was a thing. Besides being a cheap street food, it is one of the symbols of Icelandic food culture.

Getting a hot day ‘all the way’ included fresh onions, fried onions, sweet mustard, remoulade sauce and ketchup. No ketchup for Eric. No sweet mustard for me. Loved the fried onions which added a bit of crunch. Yum.

We enjoyed the tour and the guide. He started this venture with a few like-minded friends, and they continue to grow it. His tour had good ratings and another good one from us.

Ginny

Reykjavik, Iceland Winter 2024

by ginnyinshanghai

That’s right……………we headed back to Iceland!

Eric found direct flights to Iceland from Orlando and after conferring with Adrienne, we found a week to head north.

So excited to be on another journey to one of my (current) top places to visit. In my excitement, forgot a few steps after landing……………….deplaning outside before catching a bus to the terminal. Had to dig out the scarves, gloves and headwear from the backpack!

Yep, a great way to get used to the chilly temps for us Floridans.

Going in November we got to see the beginning of Christmas displays.

We all were able to utilize carry-on luggage and a backpack (each) so no waiting at the luggage carousel.

Short walk to the BLUE rental car company and we were quickly on our 45-minute drive to Reykjavik. We rented an apartment and got really good directions, even though we went around the block a few times. OOps. There was a parking garage underneath the building and after a few trial & errors……. we got inside and parked.

The place was next door to Hotel Borg and the key box was in the opposite alley. Eric went upstairs where another key box happened to be located, and we procured both sets of keys!

Our place was the middle balcony overlooking a square.

We made the decision to pay for the prior night of our arrival thus ensuring we had immediate access upon arrival. Flights from the U.S. arrive very early Icelandic time. Five hours was the time difference from home. My body thought it was 3am.

Two bedrooms, a living area and a small kitchen was perfect for our needs.

First order of business was breakfast after dropping off luggage and no better place than right next door at Hotel Borg at their buffet. They had a variety of offerings but truly, I wanted the basics then some sleep. Two cups of coffee had absolutely no effect on my sleeping at that point.

Four hours of sleep truly made a difference for the afternoon plans……Sky Lagoon. Originally, it seemed a bit at odds to jump into water in Iceland but LOVE their thermal baths and lagoons.

This visit (yes, there is another one) was part of a package, but more on that in another post. Here are a few highlights:

Steaming water viewed after showering and putting on swimsuits.
Three delighted participants.
Eric leading the way into the main body of water.
Liquid refreshment.

Hour+ later we met at their bar for other nourishment.

An initial tasting of lamb stew – Icelandic lamb was the only reason I now enjoy lamb.

Even in this climate, I found flowers. The center flowers are related to cabbage and tolerate colder temps and looked great.

They were surrounded by a pink heather.

Even in their winter, we found plenty of activities and as long as you’re dressed in layers, you can brave almost anything here. Hang tight, more posts to come.

Ginny

Iceland 2024 & Reykjavik

by ginnyinshanghai

Okay………………………I’m only a few weeks/months behind from completing the last Iceland post. If you’ve read some of my other trip posts, this is usually the hardest one for me to write – as the trip is over. 😦 Regardless, here you go.

Back to the Storm Hotel in Reykjavik and we got an upgrade! We were on the top floor with our own balcony. Woo Hoo!

Loved it!

Eric agreed to go back to a gastro pub that Adrienne and I visited that we loved. If I was totally truthful (and I strive to be), it wasn’t quite as good as my memory served. We enjoyed it but there were different things on the menu during my 2019 visit, as there should be, but still…….. I had built it up in my memory. Reality was my tastes and tastebuds have changed in 5 years. We’ll go with that.

But during our walk to the restaurant, I chuckled at their street corner lights……..

Leave it to the ‘girls’ to follow the traffic rules – just saying.

Back inside the restaurant, we started with local beers.

Add in a few veggies – Brussel sprouts and spicey edamame.

Next small plate that arrived was this spicey tuna.

Ordered ‘goats on horseback’…………huh? Bacon-wrapped dates, stuffed with goat cheese. I really enjoyed them.

Naturally wanted to finish with dessert. 🙂

This is also the city where elaborate graffiti is encouraged.

A few examples we passed as we traveled the city centre.

Always need to visit one of the most iconic places in the city…….Hallgrimskirkja Church. It is the largest church in Iceland and amongst the tallest structures in Iceland, being a Lutheran parish.

In front is a statue gifted to the Icelandic people from the United States commemorating the 1000th anniversary of the convening Iceland’s parliament at Pingvellir (930 A.D.). No, that is not a typo, it was the 1000th anniversary.

Another iconic street is this one – a top photo spot. Iceland is a very accepting society. We came across a number of these rainbow streets throughout our trip.

Since our last visit, food halls have become more prevalent in Iceland and elsewhere. We came across this one and went inside to check it out – and get warm.

The time was well spent with a cup of coffee for me in the green floral mug and beer for Eric.

And some snacks.

They have r.e.a.l.l.y good French fries.

I discovered this Icelandic chocolate a few days before leaving home.

And while it was a hike to get there, we made the trek. Omnom Chocolates was started by two Icelandic friends in 2013 and their goal was “bean to bar” using the finest cacao beams sourced worldwide. Sustainability starts with traceability, and they buy ingredients by direct trade.

They specialize in small-batch chocolates, originally creating single origin chocolate bars and expanded by adding in unique Icelandic elements to their ingredient list. Their chocolate-wrapped graphics are inspired by fantastical creatures, surrealism, pop art and contemporary Nordic design. Basically, I LOVED all of the designs. Here is one example along with my Icelandic sheep. While the sheep always made me smile, I would get ‘looks’ whenever I included it into a photo. It always made people smile – which in turn made me smile that I added a bit of fun and whimsy for someone else.

One last restaurant we visited was BRUT established in 2021. They specialized in small plates, which is a style of eating we both enjoy.

Started with home-made chips & hummus dip and Icelandic Sea snails. I’m fairly new to eating snails and our waiter warned us they had a unique texture. Yep, he was right. I tried one and Eric got to eat the remainder that was on the plate.

I really enjoyed these shrimp with herbal mayo. The ‘burned’ lemon was not something we had seen, and added another layer of flavor. Yum.

This fish was something new for us to try: Skate, served with brown butter, capers, parsley and lemon. The tender flesh resembles strands as it cooks and the flesh has a mildly sweet flavor. It was good – I would order it again.

The morning we left, Eric did a bit of walking and found a barber. Nothing else to do……….Eric went in for a shave and trim. He has plans to stop in on the next trip to Iceland………………….which may be happening sooner than most would expect.

That’s right. I’m always up for a trip to Iceland but Eric originally said his one trip in 2019 was enough. This trip was more about knocking something off of my bucket list. He truly enjoyed himself sooooooo much more than he expected, we’re planning a shorter trip in the Fall. Yeah!!!!!

Until the next post,

Ginny

Iceland Ring Road – back to Reykjavik

by ginnyinshanghai

We had two choices to head back. One, go over the mountain pass which was the shorter route. Two, follow the coastline which would be longer. Overnight Eric got an email from the rental car company and sent me this text.

We had just been on all of those roads. Yikes. We wanted a safe journey. We went with option two – follow the coastline.

We had two additional planned stops for the Snaefellsnes peninsula. First up, a lava cave, Vatneshellir.

It is one of Iceland’s older lava tubes that can be explored and was formed during an eruption 8000 years ago. Here’s a schematic of our path. We entered where the lava tube reaches the surface with a short stairway to the smaller chamber on the left of the snapshot below.

Our guide pointed out some rock formations at the end of the smaller chamber.

Also pointed out the remains of an arctic fox that got curious and then couldn’t get out.

This crack in the ceiling is a good thing. Really? The guide said these cracks allows for shifting rock and prevents the lava cave from falling in on itself. Okay, I guess.

Here is a shot of the middle chamber after we retraced our steps. These lava caves were created when during an eruption, a river of molten rock begins to cool from outside in. The effect left a crust of flowing lava and a hollow tube.

He pointed our several colors in the rocks. red = iron, yellow = Sulphur and green = copper.

One last chamber to explore required navigating this spiral staircase downward.

Our view of the last chamber…………before shutting off all of the lights to ‘feel’ total darkness. Got to say, I wasn’t surprised when this happened (we had a warning) since every cave tour I’ve been on, the guide always does this. It is VERY dark.

To get out, you had to retrace your steps. All in all, the tour was an hour, we had 14 in our group, a nice stop. BTW – in addition to the helmets, each person was issued a small flashlight on a lanyard for the duration of the tour.

At the top I said we had two planned stops on the peninsula. Next up was a black church – Budakirkja. It is popular with tourists for a few reasons, one of which is the color – black. The black is pitch, used to protect the wood during winter.

Why so important? There’s a story…………..

It was built by a Swedish barn merchant using his own money and consecrated in 1703. Over time the church fell into disrepair and a royal letter in 1816 made it official it was no longer considered a church. In the mid 19th century, a wealthy widow changed that. On a spring day, she was working nearby and suddenly was overcome with fatigue, laid down and fell asleep. A man came to her in a dream and wanted her to take up the challenge of rebuilding. She woke up and realized it was the original Swedish merchant. She accepted the challenge and in 1847 she applied to have the building decreed but was refused. She appealed to the King of Denmark, who gave his blessing. She is one of those buried in the nearby cemetery.

The church is not open for tours, but local events are held here throughout the year. They have had people from around the world plan their weddings here. I found this photo online on their website. Before plans are made, guests are made aware there is (1) no heat, (2) no facilities and (3) holds generally 50 guests.

So, what is next……………head back to Reykjavik. But not before seeing their only native mammal, the artic fox – IN The Wild. Eagle-eyes Eric, saw the fox cross the road several hundred yards ahead of us.

He definitely blended in with the countryside. Okay, okay, not the best photos, but hey – who expected to see an artic fox?

We weren’t so excited for our next sighting – traffic. After having minimal cars on the road during most of the time, this was a shock to the senses.

Looking to the driver’s left, Eric could see Reykjavik in the distance, but it seemed we were going the wrong way. Yep, another tunnel, but this one under water for almost 6 km.

All of the other tunnels we experienced on the ring road were through mountains. I liked those better – just saying.

We are staying at the same hotel (Storm Hotel) where we started our adventure. We had one more photo to get…………….Sun Voyager, the place we began the Ring Road journey and the place we ended the Ring Road experience.

Ginny

Iceland Ring Road – Snaefellsnes Peninsula

by ginnyinshanghai

While technically we were no longer on the ‘Ring Road’ since we turned off to explore the Snaelfellsnes Peninsula………..I wanted continuity with my posts. There you go.

Grundarfjordur

Our city for the night was situated on the North Snaefellsnes peninsula, exactly in the middle of the northern peninsula coast. The town was between a mountain range and the sea. Due to its natural harbor it was a center of trade for the peninsula since the 15th century. Fishing boats come in and out, offloading their catches – except when we were there. We arrived on the weekend AND it was an Icelandic holiday. Even their grocery store was closed – not good, but I’m getting ahead of myself.

My previous post ended with wind and rain. That’s where this starts. We stayed at a former post office that had been converted into guest rooms. Yep, still raining. We should be using an umbrella but we don’t have one and it seemed silly to drive in the small town – so we walked and got soaked.

We were on the ground floor, with our own bathroom and an extra bed.

A nice restaurant was fairly close and easily walkable. Website indicated it was open and cars were in their parking lot. Closed for a private event that evening. Uh oh. Find a plan B. Googled more eating establishments and walked to Harbour Cafe – it’s open, but everyone not part of the private event was there. BTW – still raining.

It’s generally bad news when you enter and a person asks ‘Do you have a reservation?’. Another couple was ordering and being seated at a table for five with the caveat it needed to be vacated at 7pm. She asked if we could join them – they gave us a thumbs up and said yes. Thank you!

I needed a beer. The lighter one on the right was mine and I was keeping up with Eric.

They also had a bar, beer on draft and wines – pretty nice for this very small establishment.

Eric started with the langoustine soup – fitting for tonight. It was steaming hot, filled with veggies and BIG. He had enough for all of us.

My lamb steak was just what I needed that evening. The potatoes were crunchy and the salad crisp – delicious.

Eric was staying with seafood, ordering Icelandic cod.

When we got our beers, they put a slip of paper on the table, 7pm. We were fine with that and not offended. Our ‘new best friends’ were from Belgium and had gotten their food fairly quickly. Did we make it out by 7pm? We could have but……….not a chance nor our fault. The waitress came towards our table, looked at me and said ‘What? Where is your food?’ That was exactly what we were thinking and it was 7:10pm. Needless to say, it came fairly quickly after that.

The next morning breakfast was at the same locale. It was the only thing open we could find. It was near the harbor and we discovered the Icelandic Coast Guard was in port.

A few houses had graphitti, not to the extent in Reykjavik. It is generally sanctioned in Iceland and there have been some fabulous ones.

But why had we deviated off the ring road? Why were we here? To see one of the most photographed places in Iceland – Kirkjufell, which means church mountain. The mountain generally looks like a steeple on a church.

The free-standing mountain with volcanic rock was 463 meters or 1519 feet tall.

It is not a volcano but a nunatak – a mountain that protruded above the glaciers surrounding it during the ice age. The word nunatak is Greenlandic. It is the result of glacial erosion. BTW – Alaska has the largest nunatak called ‘Great Nunatak’. Who knew?

The view most seen encompasses the nearby falls. Have you seen it? If you’ve done any reading or research about Iceland, there’s no doubt you’ve seen this.

Turned around and got this shot. The town we stayed in was at our backs. The sun is trying to shine through the cloud cover. Still very windy.

It was a short hike to get here with the parking lot beyond the waterfalls. While the rain had stopped, the wind did not. You had to lean in headfirst to make any progress. It was the strongest wind felt since arriving. We definitely held onto our car doors!

The mountain can be hiked by an experienced mountain climber but truly only with an expert guide. My reading indicated there had been three recent fatalities.

My last shot as we got back onto the road passing by Kirkjufell and looking back.

I say ‘my shot’ as I’m including some shots I found on the internet. The color changes during the passing seasons.

Summer & lush growth:

June equinox and the midnight sun:

Winter -barren, white and brown

September and months onward for the Northern Lights:

It has stood the test of time.

Ginny