Food, glorious food – that’s what we visited for. And maybe, just maybe some wine.
Eric had read that Bodego de la Ardosa was a ‘do not miss’ spot in the old part of Madrid. We stepped away from our apartment, traversed a number of narrow streets while dodging some rain drops and FOUND IT!
It was established in 1892 and has a unique look and feel and it is always busy. It is a place that locals visit which was evident on our visit.
A lady sitting at a barrel table took pity on us and invited us to that table as she was leaving soon. She also recommended a few things to try – which we did. The tortilla patata was amazing. The kitchen brings it to the bar steaming hot, waiters cut slices and serve it. It was a perfect size for sharing as we had more things coming.
And oh boy! One of the tastiest things arrived next: braised beef cheeks. We had just enough of the above dish left to dip into the gravy below. Yum! We wished we had more bread for dipping.
Fried calamari and Iberian ham rounded out our selections.
We were all very happy. I didn’t get photos of our libations, but we had sangria, vermuth and several glass of local red wine.
I mentioned we were ‘lucky’. This was true in more ways than one. They had a maximum capacity of 40, which was plastered outside their door. During that evening the bar seemed to empty out, but new diners coming in had to wait outside until others left. Annnnnddddd it was now raining. What a yucky night to be stuck outside.
But back to the story………where were they? Some patrons were directed to their ‘back room’, only accessible by dunking under the bar. Really not the best photo but hopefully you can get the idea.
The doorway in the background below was right before you had to duck down to crawl through.
What? Yep, on a repeat visit we got placed in the ‘inner sanctum’. The front room had walls covered with bottles and memorabilia, as did the backroom.
It was finally time for us to leave and get out in the rain. Adrienne was the only one prepared with an umbrella.
We booked a food tour on our first full day in Madrid. Yep, everything thus far occured on the day of our arrival – after a nap. 🙂
They specialize in small group tours and as you can see above they have an umbrella company with tours in 80+ locaitons. In fact a family on our tour had done their ‘Paris Secret Food Tour’ and liked it so well, they booked with the same company for Madrid.
The group met our tour guide In Puerto de Sol, a major metro hub. It was also the location of Madrid’s bear statue, representing Madrid’s coat of arms. Tourists have noticed a discoloration on the bear’s hind leg and tail and subsequently believe that touching the statue will bring good luck – a myth totally made up by tourists.
In this plaza was also this huge sign – Tio Pepe. It’s a 100+ years old advertisement for sherry that has now turned into a cultural icon. At one time this square was filled with advertising signs and commercial billboards and this is the only remaining sign. The people of Madrid are passionate about the sign and its location. It’s staying for now.
This food tour was more than just food. Our guide, Jo, also included a good bit of history. Plaza Mayor – a major public square in the heart of Madrid, which dates back to the 15th century. It is a vibrant hub for cultural activities, festivals and public events. This is where the people go for New Year’s Eve, watching the clock tower with projections among other events happening that night. Our tour guide said ‘Think of NYC Times Square’.
We started with a hot beverage and pastry. Eric got the molten chocolate drink. Me, a cappuccino.
This is where we first learned about the bronze placques occasionally seen on the sidewalks.
Bronze pavement plaques are given by the city of Madid to denote a business or restaurant has continually worked for 100+ years. Once our guide pointed them out, we started to notice them. Even the restaurant at the top of this post had one – which we didn’t notice until our second visit.
Our first stop had some awesome sweets in their display cases. We might have to come back here on our own later in the week.
It was time to introduce meat to our food tour. We walked to Bartolome‘.
Loved the different types of ham – don’t ask me to identify them, way too many. The bread dipped in the (delicious!!!) olive oil helped break up the fat left on your tongue.
In the hallway to their storage, our guide pointed out these hanging hams. She also explained the cone at the bottom was to catch fat as it continued to dry.
And, there was another bronze pavement plaque.
Our next step was something that eric had been dreaming about……….
Calamares sandwich.
We walked into a long skinny establishment and took up places along the bar.
With a little big of magic (and hot oil), these calimare turned into delicious bites of goodness. We each got half a sandwich and that was enough. A plate of fried potatoes, a beverage of your choice and we all dug in. Yes, I enjoyed the sandwich also.
Two more places to go, can we make it? We will give it our best.
This next stop was very much a local stop. And it was about the vermuth.
First up was the glass of local vermuth. It wasn’t bad. It starts as a white wine and gains a darker color through infusion of caramel and various other spices and botanicals, often with a slice of orange and/or olive in your glass. It can be enjoyed straight up or on the rocks. At 15% alcohol, they consider it a perfect aperitif before a meal.
A plate of fried pork bits and other assorted veggies rounded out the food offerings.
Those little sausages below were very tasty.
Finally made it to our last stop:
Once again, it was a variety of tasting plates, but this round included a few bites of seafood.
One of the pair of young ladies on our tour was celebrating her birthday and we all shared some of her birthday cake and another sweet goodie. Personally, I liked the cake on the left best.
It was raining fairly steady, so when the rest of the group departed, we stayed for more wine and talk.
Which also gave a chance to grab a photo with the tour guide, Jo.
It was a really good tour, even with dodging the rain. We were all prepared with umbrellas – after Eric and I bought one each at a convenience store………..
It was waaaaaaaay too much food for me, but it well received by the other two. 🙂 More walking and adventures are coming.
Darden Travels 