Our first night of dining was absolutely amazing. Rich found a tapas bar that specialized in regional food and this was one of the top rated: Restaurant les Chauvins. They welcome you in a modern and warm setting in preparation for discovery of the flavors of Alsace. Their mission is for their diners to rediscover the authentic taste of fresh quality products, including organic farming and the know-how of local producers. The owners make it a point of honor to work with fresh products grown on Alsatian terroir.
Days into our trip and we were still talking about some of the food from that night. The first thing to arrive was ‘tarte flammbee traditionnelle’, a lovely thin-crusted item with a special cheese base, thinly-sliced onions and bacon pieces. Truly, it is the only thing I remember from our trip in 2005.
Next three items to arrive were: foie gras de canard (duck), aslacian pork and mini-burgers.
We still wanted more food: white asparagus, rolled meat & herbs rolled in egg pasta and hot dog aslacian.
This item was liked the least: escargot in mushroom cap.
Desserts? But of course. Eric ordered ice cream……..raspberry and citrus flavors, with sparkling white aslacian wine poured into the glass. It was pretty good.
However……………..this is the dessert we talked about the remainder of our time in France: Kougelhopf pain perdu with ice cream and a v.e.r.y tasty sauce. Most similar to French Toast – only better.
The kougelhopf was a local specialty of the Alsace region. It is a yeast brioche cake with raisins and almonds although googling recipes found a multitude of fruit and/or nuts that could also be added. I am going to make this at home! Don’t think I’ve mentioned yet, but at the point this photo was taken, I had been up 32+ hours. Yikes – I’m too old for this.
Walking through the historic area, one gets hungry. Lunch was at Au Petit Bois Vert, outside on the terrace around the foot of the oldest tree in Strasbourg.
While not a tapas place, we continued to share and taste each other’s selections. Never going to be a bad meal when sitting next to water – just saying.
No surprise, I got another tarte flambe with plenty to share.
All shared the homemade duck foie gras and the assorted venison meat & cheese platter.
Eric chose the traditional choucroute garnie (sausages, pork and sauerkraut).
While Rich and Hunter had the ‘wild game (boar) from Alsace. The presentation wasn’t exactly what they were expecting, but enjoyed their selection.
The guys all got dessert with Eric choosing raspberry glace (ice cream) and cafe gourmand for the other two.
So far so good our first few days in Strasbourg. Next up, Strasbourg Cathedral.
Headed back to Europe but notice something in my first few photos?
Even though I’m smiling………………I’m solo. Where is Eric? Six days earlier he flew out with Hunter and Rich to see the beaches of Normandy.
I headed to Paris after a stop in Atlanta before flying overseas.
I did see the sunrise since I had a window seat. Almost, but not quite, was worth the 8+ hour wait until they arrived at the train station – where I was waiting. There were a few hours that were dicey while I was waiting at the airport/train station.
I gave a lot of thought to acquiring a room at the hotel airport and sleeping. A lot of thought……..
Train tickets were purchased before leaving the states. We had to wait 15-20 minutes before departure to know the line it was arriving on . Then it was a mad dash to get our tickets scanned, go downstairs to the tracks, find the corresponding letter for our car and seats, before settling in on the train.
Here’s a nice view of the French country-side on our way to Strasbourg. Why Strasbourg? Eric and I had been here 2005 with friends and truthfully don’t remember much of that experience. It was my first trip to Europe and our friends planned the entire trip.
Strasbourg is one of the de facto four main capitals of the European Union (alongside Brussels, Luxembourg and Frankfort). It was first mentioned in 12 BC as a Roman camp. It had a history of German and French rule. French in 1681, German in 1871, French in 1918 (after WW1), German in 1940 and French in 1944.
We got to our AirBNB easily enough. We were met by a friend of the host and he carried up my suitcase. Going up two flights, some of which were twisty was a feat in itself.
These places are always interesting. They squeeze in bedrooms, toilets and showers separate from the original floor plan. Upon entering, the path takes you through our bedroom (top left photo) before entering the living space and kitchen. Rich and Hunter were upstairs after traversing another tight stairway, then being careful to not hit your head on a wooden beam or slanted ceiling.
The city was known for its medieval cityscape of Rhineland black and white timber-framed buildings. We went exploring once suitcases were dropped.
The weather was beautiful during our visit. When possible, we walked along the waterways. The guys were in the background of my shot below.
Three bridges along with four fortified towers were built between 1230 and 1250 on the branches of the Ill River, to defend Strasbourg against attacks.
A quick photo from atop our vantage point before heading into ‘La Petite France’.
The Petite France district is one of the most picturesque and touristic districts of Strasbourg. The canals of the Ill de Strasbourg were built and developed from the tenth century onwards and mainly used for the defense of the city as well as for its river and craft commercial activities. They were improved, extended and strengthened during the Middle Ages.
Records indicate some type of bridge dated back to 1197. It was reconstructed in 1841and is supported by a single cast-iron arch, formed of four arch ribs. It is one of the oldest cast-iron bridges still standing in France.
We followed this boat and saw it go through one of their locks.
More excitement is coming – food and the Strasbourg Cathedral. Stay tuned.
Concluding our 2025 Spain trip was sad, but looking back over these photos – we had some great times, saw interesting sites and undoubtedly had awesome food experiences. Let’s wrap this up!
One of our stops was at Point Zero in Madrid, found in one of their most famous spaces – Puerta del Sol, in front of the Government of Madrid Community. The ‘point zero’ tradition comes from the Roman Empire, dating back to the time of Augustus, the first emperor of Rome. Remember ‘All roads lead to Rome’. And I discovered it almost matches the authentic center of this country.
Let’s talk some food. One afternoon we stopped in this establishment for a ‘light snack’. Sangria went nicely with the cheese & bread they brought us.
Even something that ‘mundane’ just tasted better in Spain.
Naturally a meat platter, an egg tortilla and a salad were thrown in for good measure.
We made another visit to Mercado de San Miguel. Yes, it might be filled with tourists but it was definitely worth going back for one last visit. We wandered until we found a spot where 2 or maybe 3 can sit then one goes off to bring back food.
Most of the photos below are easily identifiable. The top left was octopus – delicious!
Eric had anxiously been awaiting his dining experience in Posada de Villa Madrid.
Back in the seventeenth century there was only one Flour Mill in Madrid, which became in 1642 the first Posada de la Corte, under the protection of the Arab walls, where food and lodging were given to all travelers who arrived in Madrid. It was in 1980 when it was rescued (from disrepair) after 2 years of meticulous restoration, by an individual from Madrid to ensure the tradition continued. We were there when it opened at 7pm for our reservation.
Bread and olives started our feast.
Then the reason Eric made these reservations………………….Quarter lamb roasted in a wood oven – shared by him and Adrienne.
I ordered chicken and truth be told, all three of us could have eaten off of the lamb that evening. Their kitchen offered a cuisine prepared with dishes belonging to Castilian and Madrid gastronomy.
There were some ‘sides’ that came with the meal, but totally not necessary. What we did need…….was dessert. ha!
After eating, these Floratine cookies were brought with the check – like we needed more food. BTW – no crumb was left.
I have one more eating experience to share – cava street crawl. Although looking back at our photos, I don’t think we drank any cava. Ha!
This was our first stop. Pitchers of sangria were already made. They added some juice and ice and they were ready to serve.
This next place was s.u.p.e.r crowded. We squeezed into a spot along the bar. Really, we ‘made’ a spot for us to stand.
This third stop had an interesting twist. The hostess led us down some stairs so I assumed we would have horrible service. Not so much. Why was that? In one of the photos below – a doorbell when you needed something or someone.
It quit raining and it started getting thick. Both with people and with cars. There were people living above all the restaurants streetside. Yikes!
Last stop – we were getting full.
One last look of Cava Street before we left to crash at our rental. The colorful umbrellas drew your attention.
You may have noticed Eric was sporting a new look. Eric felt a new wool hat was needed. Once he saw the bronze plaque indicating a 100+ years existence in front of this store – he was sold, a blue wool hat was purchased.
Our last night we were able to see one of their iconic emblems fully lit. Read one of my earlier posts for why this advertisement continues to exist. 🙂
We enjoyed Spain – central and northern Spain. Food was great and expenses were not totally outrageous and our AirBNBs were well situated. We hope to be back and explore the southern parts of Spain.
Heading back to Madrid required driving over this terrain. It wasn’t for the faint of heart. Especially when we got a wind alert and the rain we encountered was crystalizing. Yep, just like snow.
This didn’t happen to us, but it definitely looked like a mess. Bottom center was one of the workers.
Drove through a number of tunnels going through the mountains and not over them. Hard to see in my photo below, but not all of them had a concrete ceiling – just a net attached to the ceiling of mountain rock.
Within an hour of reaching Madrid we started looking for lunch options. Adrienne found this place – another winner in a somewhat small unassuming town.
Started with wine and some (home-made) potato chips? Yep, we were given them several times throughout this trip.
We continued with tapas, sharing each of the plates.
salmon on endiveIberian hamtuna w/ tomatoes
Just enough room left for three desserts to share.
Another winner for lunchtime.
Back to the Madrid airport, drop off the rental then catch a taxi to our next AirBNB. Nice place in the heart of the historic center. We did have to walk up two flights of stairs to get to our place. Man – those suitcases are getting h.e.a.v.y!
Getting access was very easy and different than most others. Halfway down the street was a small holding room for luggage, packages and also keys. We had been given the code to enter and the code for our key box – easy peasy.
We had a nice view from one of the balconies.
Our favorite Madrid tapas location………just around the corner. We became ‘regulars’.
Lest you think all we do was eat…………….we added some ‘culture’ to our visit. The Museo del Prado is the main Spanish art museum in Madrid. It houses collections of European art, dating from the 12th century to the early 20th century, based on the former Spanish royal collection, and the single best collection of Spanish art. The numerous works by Francisco Goya – the single most extensively represented artist – were some of the highlights of the collection. The collection currently comprises around 8,200 drawings, 7,600 paintings, 4,800 prints, and 1,000 sculptures.
No photos allowed inside the Prada, but we could take one outside……..
It was a journey. If I didn’t mention it yet………..we had a lot of rain, I’m talking a lot of rain. Drenching, soaking through your clothes kind of rain. Adrienne packed an umbrella, but we had to make a double purchase. BTW – so cheap, they stayed in Spain in our last rental for the next inhabitants.
Another day we visited Museo Arqueologico Nacional.
The museum was founded in 1867 as a depository for numismatic, archaeological, ethnographical and decorative art collections of the Spanish monarchs. Its current collection is based on pieces from the Iberian Peninsula, from Prehistory to Early-Modern Age. Visitors enter the building at basement level, and pass to the prehistory section. We you move up through the building, artifacts become closer to our current time on earth.
It really was an interesting museum. Eric enjoyed the Prado Museum, I enjoyed this one more. They had really great displays, interactive, video and narrative and as mentioned above, this was based on the Iberian Peninsula – not something I had ever studied. We spent too much time on the Pre-history section where you first entered.
Culling through my photos, there were way too many and not nearly as interesting as actually being there. One thing that stuck out as we moved upward in the museum (and upward in ages) were their rooms of mosaics. These things were massive. A great many had been framed & supported and placed on walls. The photo below was one of them.
Let’s eat! We had a variety of food during our short stay.
This restaurant was known for their Cachopo – what? Start with Asturian Beef fillet, spread a mixture of cream cheese and a local cheese, coat it with cornmeal and egg and finally fry it at the perfect temperature.
This was big enough to feed all three of us, especially when you start with a (local) cheese platter.
As you might have noticed in the name, cider was a part of their experience. Those green bottles were everywhere!
Another stop was………………..
This was repeated several times during our stay. Of course it was VERY convenient to our rental which probably should be mentioned. 🙂 We usually arrived before they ‘officially’ started serving and they still seated us and brought something to nosh on while we waited. Eric was sold on their cider. Me, not so much. There was not a hint of sweetness to the drink. There’s no carbonation therefore holding the bottle high and a little was poured from a distance, adds something. Someone was continually stopping by to refill the glass. And yes, they don’t look at the glass when they are pouring.
Here’s a collection of the dishes we ordered. Some savory, some hearty and some sweets.
And then this short video of sizzling steak that Adrienne and Eric shared one evening.
Oviedo really was a charming town. They had a large pedestrian area nearby, great for people watching and checking out statues. Yes, they have lots and lots of statues, 100+. In the 1990s the city council initiated this open-air museum, most of which were created by local artists. It could be a scavenger hunt! We ran into a few as we strolled. Apparently there’s one for Woody Allen and it was one of the most popular. Nope, we didn’t see it nor hunt for it.
Below was the ‘Monumento a la Concordia’ a bronze sculpture of 7 figures in Carbayon Square.
‘La Pensadora’ The Thinker.
And of course, The unavoidable ‘Culis Monumentalibus’ a pair of buttocks.
Before leaving this part of Spain, we did a short road trip to Aviles – a well-preserved medieval city with one of the best-preserved Historic Centers. The nearby port played a significant role in its transformation over the centuries. The center was full of narrow streets and charming squares.
Just off the square seen above was this (dry) fountain.
Loved their faces. I’m sure there was a story………………
When these trees leaf out, it would be a great place to sit and people-watch.
Eating was part of this adventure – of course.
Since 1890 this establishment had a goal ensuring the essence of a traditional cider house continued to exist but also the dishes of traditional Asturian cuisine were served. The name came from the first family that owned it and it was managed by the family until 1954. it was again run by the family in 2005 and one of the two owners was there during our visit. Lucky for us since he helped with the language and also describing the dishes we ordered.
We started with a tasting sampler and fried sardines. The sampler I snacked on, the fried sardines – not so much.
Adrienne couldn’t resist the octopus with potatoes.
I ended up with the scrambled eggs with mushrooms and (some of the best ever) prawns.
Eric ordered a local whole fish on the recommendation of the owner. He enjoyed it.
Eric topped off his meal with rice pudding. We were too full to partake of any dessert.
This was a nice, unexpected side trip that we all enjoyed.
It is the capital city of the Principality of Asturias. The Kingdom of Asturias began in 720 after a revolt against the Muslims that had taken control over most of this peninsula. Economically, Oviedo was a poor region and largely ignored by the Muslims. Two monks in 761 founded the city to construct a small church. In the late 780s the Kings started settling in Oviedo and thus began to shape the city architecturally. Wars, uprisings and fires occurred which continued to plague further development. In the 12th – 16th centuries, Oviedo saw true development of the medieval city of which the outlines are still preserved today. Whew! That’s enough history. Let’s talk our experience.
Eric found a nice AirBNB in the heart of the city, easy walking to see the sites and it came with a parking garage & designated parking spot.
Our problem? Understanding the host’s (very detailed) directions. She sent me a PDF file, which I read, but didn’t connect all of the details and photos. Her file was 100% accurate, we just had trouble understanding it. Full honesty……………if I had gone onto the AirBNB site and looked at her photos, our frustration would have been much lower. Let’s just say this lady has the patience of a Saint. I ended up calling her and she stayed on the phone with me all the way through the process until we could park the car. She walked me down to the garage via her apartment, walked to the designated parking spot, then walked me out of the garage entrance (virtually). It was a bear. Thrown in a garage fob that had sketchy connection, and it made the job a bit harder. Had to be 30+ minutes (which Eric and Adrienne swears it was an hour) that I was on the phone with her.
This photo I found on the AirBNB site – after we got home. We couldn’t even get to this point, which led us to the upstairs apartment, which had a key box, to get inside the apartment, to get the keys we needed for the garage to park the car.
The parking spot was a bonus, a little tight for Eric and our rental car, but doable with Adrienne and myself giving guidance.
Here’s a few shots inside the apartment.
Cider is king here and Eric was excitedly looking forward to it. We had tried some earlier in the trip and there is not one bit of sweetness to the drink, very, very dry. Not going to be something that I indulged.
Even though we had that a.w.e.s.o.m.e meal for lunch, we still need some calories before going to bed. A number of restaurants were available 50 feet from the garage and we picked one. Eric tried their hearty bean dish, Adrienne wanted a tomato salad and I went with fish and frites. We were all satisfied with our selections.
It was dark when we left the restaurant to walk the long trek to our apartment (not) but it gave us a chance to see the pedestrian street in its glory.
What to do when in a historic city center after eating some breakfast? Visit their church: the Cathedral of San Salvador of Oviedo. It was founded in 781 A.D. by the King of Asturias
Originally there was plans to build twin towers, but the ended up with only one. It was not lack of funding that made this decision, but in the 1500s it was a popular solution.
The entry is imposing, as it’s meant to be.
Topped by this scene.
Let’s go inside. It was somewhat surprising there was an entrance fee of 10 euro. Most churches are free. They have a great brochure, numbered with specific stops and after scanning the QR code info was shared in a concise and informative manner – not long winded. We agreed afterwards, it was worth the 10 euro.
Those golden panels…were created in the 1500s by a Flemish artist. The facade is made of chestnut but the sculptures within are walnut, that has been gilded. They tell the story of Jesus and Mary in 23 scenes, starting at the bottom left. The central panel is dedicated to Christ the Savior.
There are a number of side chapels, but this one had some unusual artwork as part of the alter.
I’m sure these faces are there for an important message, but………a tad bit creepy.
Next we were directed upstairs to the most holy chamber. It is considered the most important surviving structure and the only thing remaining of the original medieval structure. It was built during the 9th century as a palace chapel for King Alfonso II of Asturias and the church of San Salvador of Oviedo. Apart from acting as royal chapel, the Holy Chamber was built to house the jewels and relics of the cathedral of San Salvador in Oviedo, a function it continues to have 1200 years later. The photo below is the entrance for the two rooms.
The first room has four columns with well-preserved sculptures. Each column has two apostles positioned to talk with each other.
There are a number of interesting details at the bottom, all of which are different. Here’s an example.
It was built as a relics’ room to keep the different treasures brought from Jerusalem to Africa, and finally deposited at Oviedo.
The Shroud of Oviedo is the most notable relic of Christ’s passion kept in the Arca Santa reliquary. The bloodstained cloth or sudarium (Latin for sweat cloth) is reputed to be the cloth wrapped around the head of Jesus Christ after he died and left in the tomb folded to the side at his resurrection.
Additional internet research also indicated the following items are inside: a piece of the True Cross, pieces from the Crown of Thorns and the Holy Sepulchre and some bread from the Last Supper to name just a few.
Exciting the Holy Chamber, I noticed these sculptures on the wall above the doorway. They were part of a painting on the wall that was richly colored. Their faces are the only thing that remains.
Following the tour route it took us another flight of stairs where there were five rooms for a museum. These articles have been curated, collected, donated and purchased for historical value. Here are a few things seen.
Going back downstairs, we discovered this courtyard. There was an ancient olive tree that had stood the test of time.
A burial crypt was also seen in this courtyard.
A cloister existed for meditation.
Along with some of the oldest crypts.
Upon exiting the cathedral this archway is placed on an angle for a specific reason. It led pilgrims to the Hospital of St. John, which no longer exists.
These alcoves on the outside were deliberately left empty. These are to be a reflection of the spaces that we ourselves must fill up with our life’s work.
One last photo of the cathedral. The tower has a bell made in 1219 and is the oldest bell still actively used in Europe.
It’s time for a break in writing and a break from our church tours. This cathedral was the majority of our morning, so very interesting, so very old and so very well presented.
On our way out, I wanted one last photo from San Sebastian: Peine del Viento or ‘The Comb Of The Wind’. Located in the western area of San Sebastián and at the foot of Mount Igeldo, the Peine del Viento is one of the most celebrated sculptures by Basque artist Eduardo Chillida. Here are the first two sculptures.
Installed in 1977, the artwork is a series of terraces built of pink colour granite and three anchor-like iron shapes welded into rocks. This is one of the most visited places by tourists and locals, especially on stormy days, when waves pound against the cliff rocks. And this is the third sculpture.
All my photos had been from the Old Town, but here is one last shot of San Sebastian, taken near the sculptures, looking towards the beach and the Old Town.
We are headed West towards Oviedo and halfway there we started thinking about eating. Googled ‘places to eat near me’ and in 5-ish minutes, we would be near a highly-rated restaurant. Okay, let’s do it.
What’s in a name? We knew it didn’t open until 1pm and that was our arrival time. Once again, we were the first ones inside the restaurant.
Let’s just say they took pity on us and shared they could set up in a table in a side room for us. Okay. It was a set menu displayed in the entrance. Eric caught on before I did and possibly, he searched the internet while we waited.
We had walked into a Michelin Star restaurant – without a reservation and we were being seated. OMG. You might see the price above and go ‘yikes’. For foodies and for anyone wishing to eat at a Michelin star restaurant – this was a deal. We tend to look for ‘Michelin recommended restaurants’ which are less expensive but quite frankly just as good.
First to arrive was their bread, butter and marianito. We all really enjoyed the parsley butter. What was so special about it? It was just darn good and not seen before.
The foie gras curd topped with orange gelee’ arrived, complete with an ivory spoon and edible flowers on the rim. Both Adrienne and Eric reaped the benefits of my selective eating. I tried everything that was brought to the table. Some I liked (or not) and this was one that after the orange gelee was eaten, i could eat the foie gras curd underneath – not an entire cup mind you. And yes, I ate some of the flowers. 🙂
This dish we talked about several times after the visit. Several cockles were nestled amongst the green peas. The light green round items were potato-shaped garlic bombs (my word, not theirs).
Our next plate was probably the one I liked the least. The mushrooms had been formed into a ‘log’, with fried (?) garlic dough balls on the ends. I didn’t love the flavor profile but the other two enjoyed the remainder.
Okay, I knew the meat in the next dish I would eat, but somewhat hesitant about the smoked eel. Our server said it could be altered, but also shared it was a small part of the dish. I didn’t change a thing. I tried both, but let’s be real. By this time, I was getting full. Add in wine and rustic bread……………I was reaching my food intake limit.
The creativity was good, I liked the fresh farm egg yolk and the crunchy ‘chips’ which did add some flavor to the wheat rice. The other two were starting to be selective when finishing their dishes as we still had more to come.
I enjoy mullet but never been served with it roasted. The cauliflower and sauce was interesting. I had plenty to share.
The beef was very tasty and I enjoyed the ghnocchi. Again, I had plenty to share with the other two. We made it through all of the courses. I am truly stuffed.
Two different dessert options were available so naturally between the three of us, we got to try both. Their homemade ‘torrija’ was the clear winner. I enjoyed my coffee brownie with the two different types of ice creams, but the other was perfect.
To top off the meal (like we really needed more food – LOL) coffee and petit fours (Yuzu, passionfruit, jellied red fruits and white chocolate arrived for each of us.
After the meal was concluded, our server took us over the other side of the building. The main dining room looks out over the valley, but more importantly, there were two open kitchens where all the food was being prepared (same menu) and part of their experience. Really, it was the only difference between the two eating spots.
Speaking of views………………
Behind the restaurant was a vineyard.
Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good.
Before writing this, i looked at the website for Eneko. Oh my goodness. They shared the timeline of their restaurants.
~2005, first restaurant opens here, Azurmendi
~2007, first Michelin Star
~2010, second Michelin Star
~2012, third Michelin Star
~2013 thru 2016, numerous awards and Azumendi opens in Thailand, chef selected to form group of European’s Young Leaders
~2017, opening of Eneko at this location, earned Michelin Star, also opened in Tokyo
~2018 thru 2020, earns number of sustainability awards
~2021 thru 2024, opens restaurants in Seville, Madrid (2) and Bilboa, Chef Eneka Axta wins Vanitatus Chef of the Year
I have to end this post here. The remainder of our drive to Oviedo, pales in comparison. The adventure will continue in the next post.
Our last day in the city and we made the most of it. We found a little market and bought cheese (for Eric) and bread (for myself) which I used for toast the next several days – yummy.
The beach along the bay had different activity this morning – sports.
Our goal today was the San Sebastian Cathedral as it is commonly referred to or the full name is Cathedral of the Good Shepherd of San Sebastian.
Its construction took place in the last years of the 19th century in a Neo-Gothic style. One of the most astonishing features of this cathedral is the bell tower, standing at 75 meters and is one of the tallest points in San Sebastian.
Once inside, it is imposing.
One of the first chapels on the right held this clock. I haven’t seen one of those spaces dedicated in this way.
naturally there a multitude of stained glass windows.
I discovered another set of windows with this anchor, undoubtedly closely linked to the people of San Sebastian.
One of the highly ornamented chapels:
Lately I’ve started noticing the columns of these churches and all of the extra ornamentation. Always someone watchng the congregation – be it person or beast.
As we were leaving the building and area, the bells started ringing.
One thing I discovered on the internet about the Cathedral I found interesting. They have a subterranean pumping machine in their basement to prevent flooding in San Sebastian. The presence of this underground infrastructure demonstrates the historical significance of the cathedral in the city and its ability to adapt to the community’s needs. They are intertwined amongst crucial moments of Spanish history. During the Spanish Civil War, the cathedral as a field hospital.
A number of hours had passed since our food tour the previous night and it was time for mourishment. Eric wanted a repeat from an earlier foray – pig ear.
He was happy with his selection, and I ate another braised beef cheek – such a hardship, not!
We revisted the place with the ‘potato salad’ and saw another pintxos being prepared – we wanted one. Tomatoes with tuna – delicious!
Another stop at the Oyster place, which I discovered I never got a photo of the outside. We were there so much, the guy recognized us – by us, I mean Eric and Adrienne.
Believe it or not, we were trying to hold back. We had dinner reservations at a seafood restaurant tonight and wanted to go with a (semi) empty stomach.
It was a good restaurant. I wouldn’t call it fantastic, but with so much food and michelin stars around, what is ‘good’ is relative. There were a few reasons Eric wanted to eat here. First were the barnacles. It would be a first for Eric and truthfully, there’s not many new things he hasn’t tasted.
Okay, interesting. We asked the best way to get to the meat and a manager came over to show us. Don’t think I mentioned, we were the only ones in the restaurant. Our reservation was when it opened – which is way too early for locals to eat. Actually, they did seat us and let us order wine before they opened and we could order.
Back to the barnacles. Did I eat them? Yes, and here’s proof.
The had a special item on their menu that we got for sharing. Crab was the main component. It was okay. Truth be told, I would have rather eaten more of the barnacles.
Here is the second reason Eric wanted to eat here……………………Turbot. First, they brought out the uncooked fish, sharing its weight and cost. Yes, they wanted it. I say ‘they’ as this is a dish for two. Adrienne was all in and wanted to be part of the ‘two’.
It was served table-side.
What did I eat? Shrimp and frites. Both were good.
This was to be our last night in San Sebastian.
We packed and cleaned up the apartment, basically pulling together our recyclables and items to throw away. In the morning, drinking our coffee, we heard clapping. Looked outside our window and saw this.
A few minutes later, groups of runners arrived.
The photos were taken from our apartment – a great locaiton by the way for eating and walking. We hope to be back to San Sebastian for more food adventures.
After visiting the church, we explored the city and nearby harbor. It was a gorgeous sunny day.
We could see a kayak slicing through the water, and waaaaaay in the distance was a swimmer. OMG – the water was cold.
There was a staircase, leading down into the water. Naturally it needed investigation. Hmmm, what was Adrienne taking a photo of? Oysters and barnacles on the framework, of course.
Then these two gentleman walked past us – definitely looking like they were heading into the water. Yep, that was where they were going. Unfortunately, the gentleman with the black swim shorts changed while standing and it took me a second to see that he was naked and putting on his swimming attire. That second – I saw way too much. Really? Really! Eric said the look on my face was priceless.
City Hall was along the waterfront………….
……….along with a small park for kids to play in and others to set on benches to people-watch. I wandered over to these trees and noticed some were using screws to keep them from splitting apart. Interesting. Looks like they need some maintenance as one of the screws wasn’t doing much good.
Continuing our walk along the promenade, we came across these sand designs when looking over the railing.
But then we saw a sand artist at work.
The finished design:
And just in case one wanted to contribute to his cause……….Adrienne dropped a coin, but missed the sheet. Wop wop. You could also see the tools he utilized for his masterpiece – three rakes.
All this walking called for a bit of lunch. Instead of ordering some tapas and standing around table tops, we were looking more for a restaurant – and found Bardulia.
Iberian ham, roasted peppers, frites and veal cheeks. Enough to make us through until tonight’s adventure – a highly-rated food tour.
Walking through the town, they had some spring flowers in full bloom. We never see tulips in Florida and several beds were planted with them. Pansies were mixed in the same bed.
Also found this candy-stripe tulip.
Always drawn to purple flowers.
But let’s talk about one of the absolute highlights of our time in San Sebastian – a food tour. Not just any food tour, but one that has a 5-star rating after 574 reviews – that is nothing short of amazing……..and so was our tour.
We met our tour guide, Eski, a few blocks from our apartment and after some introductions, food likes/dislikes we were on our way. One thing extra special………we were the only ones on her tour that evening. That’s what happens when you visit a place in the off-season – which was perfect for us. 🙂
Our first stop was:
We learned the proper way to pour cider, which gives it some body and carbonation. This cider is not sweet at all. Eski provided the demonstration.
Then we all got to try it.
Since we are good with tasting and sharing food, every place we stopped, we got to try different things based upon our likes. We got scallops, braised beef and didn’t get a photo of the third item. 😦
Next stop:
I had a potato dish, similar to potato salad that was f.a.n.t.a.s.t.i.c. Throughout the remainder of our trip in Spain, when possible, we ordered it again. We’ve looked up the recipe so we’re expecting Eric to recreate it once we get home. The other two items were fried shrimp and a fried sardine.
We could also choose our drink at each of the stops. This time we all had local white wine.
Eski was quick to pivot on our tour to either expand our culinary options or find better choices. This next stop was a favorite of Eric’s.
It was all about the foie gras for those two while I had the grilled oyster mushrooms.
We were not done yet, we still had two more stops.
As we walked into this establishment, we were greeted like family and brought back to a table in the back. We either got a hug, or a kiss on our hand by the owner? Father of the owner? Didn’t matter, he was a real charmer. Our guide is well-known and has a fabulous reputation. She holds every place we stopped to a high standard. Here we had croquettes, octopus and Iberian ham.
By this time, I was done eating. It was way too much food for me. Add to the fact the tour was an evening tour and all that food would be sitting on my stomach. I had already switched to drinking water at this point.
Eric and Adrienne had been at our last stop the previous day and was underwhelmed by their pintxos.
She ordered two of the same ones and because the owners know her, they make her pintxos fresh. Oh, what a difference in taste – according to Eric and Adrienne. What were they? Truth be told, I don’t know. I was ready for bed and fading. Stuffed pepper? Salmon?
Looking back on our experience………..it was a great tour. Here is the review that Eric left and I couldn’t agree more.
She had a chance to respond:
We do hope to be back. We enjoyed San Sebastian and all the food it offered.
Ginny
Oops, had to add one more photo – our group from the tour.
Walking into this basilica was bearing witness to 800 years of history. It is one of the most ancient sites in the city. Various temples have been erected here since the 12th century. The current building was finished in 1774 during a period of prosperity.
The high altar grabs your attention upon entry.
The painting at the top of the above photo is saint Sebastian. This one was installed in 1819 after the previous painting vanished in 1813.
The selection of saints on the alter were all martyrs, aimed at exalting the sacrifice of one’s own life in the name of religious beliefs. Yikes!
The gold centerpiece is the ‘Lady of the Chorus Virgin’ that attracts the biggest devotion. This icon has not ways been located in the high alter, but in the chorus of the church. It has been here the last 250 years, but the iconography seems to track it back to the 16th century Italy. There is a festival in September devoted to her.
Twin altars flank the high alter. The one pictured below is Saint Barbara which is the patron saint of the artillery.
Three additional alters were in this basicilica, with identical architectural design but accomodate different saints and what they are associated with. Some are associated with the sea, , merchants & tailors and fishermen.
All the detailing just astounds me. Especially when you hear when these things were made and the hardship those not of nobility existed within. Even looking up high, figures are carved into the pillars. Someone was always looking at you when you attended church.
Speaking of looking up, captured a photo of the ceiling. The design is stunning but thinking back to other ‘fine’ ceilings we have seen on this trip, they are somewhat plain.
We could only see a portion of the organ as they are in the midst of collecting funds for restoration. An organ existed prior to 1860, but no information had been found. The City Countil found renewed energy in the mid-1800s to fund this one.
They created a museum next to the sanctuary and it was open. They have collected items in the surrounding communities that were utilized in the past. Some were in better shape than others as they had been put to daily use in their houses and barns. It was an interesting collection.
I would have enjoyed listening to their organ, but the next time would be on their Sunday service at 11:30am – the day of our departure. Concerts are held regularly, and the music creates a ‘magical’ atmosphere inside the temple.
I really enjoyed walking and looking through this building and reading about all of the symbolism. My last photo is another of the facade. It has prolific decoration and marked theatrics as opposed to the simplicity and minimal ornamentation spread throughout the rest of the outside facade.
The center glorifies the Lady of the Chorus, flanked by her parents as she in turn looks up to the Heaven.
And above it all, is a statue of Saint Sebastian.
If you ever make it to this city…………..take a moment, step inside and soak in the ambience, history and symbolism.
Darden Travels 