I mentioned in the previous post, we were going to hit a few other cities. Our next stop is going to be San Sebastian. But first, we rented a car so it was back to the airport. There was a little mix-up with our rental car reservation, but after some time on the phone with the original agent…….we were able to get a car.
It’s approximately four hours to drive to San Sebastian, not including a stop for lunch. We got a bit hungry and pulled off for a restaurant that the internet showed was open for lunch. No such luck. Actually, we walked most of the town and all of the (few) places to eat were shuttered closed, not opening until 4pm. We poked our heads into an open butcher/charcutier place and the owner said he could make us some ham sandwiches, in ten minutes. Sold! We picked up a bag of ruffles chips, some sodas and our hunger was satisfied. Actually, they were pretty darn good sandwiches.
And before you know it……………….
But why San Sebastian? It is in Basque country, and lies on the coast of Bay of Biscay, twelve miles from the Spain/France border.
The first evidence of stationary human presence dates to 22,000 BC. There were Roman settlements around 200 AD. No written records are known until 1014, a monastery. The area has been conquered, destroyed, rebuilt, burnt to the ground with periods of instability and war.
San Sebastian was one of the earliest towns hit by the 1918 Influenza epidemic. Poverty, famine, repression and smuggling all had a part here. This town didn’t seem to have a chance, but yet it is thriving now.
So again, why visit? San Sebastian is renowned for its Basque cuisine. The city and the surrounding area is home to a high concentration of restaurants with Michelin stars.
The city is also known for its pintxos (small plate dishes similar to tapas) which are found along the streets of the Old Town. That is why we are here!
We are staying in the ‘old town’ of San Sebastian. We are one block down from #8, Basilica de Santa Maria del Coro. Definitely in the center of the old town.
It is a pedestrian zone so after parking underground, we walked to #13. Adrienne was pointing to her bedroom.
A short tour of our apartment for the next several days:
Did a quick unpacking them headed out for some pintoxs. Eric had done his homework and had downloaded a map. First stop – patatas bravas, basically cubed potatoes. What makes this establishment’s dish special is the three sauces on top. I love me some sauces. Add in some sangria and we were good to go.
Next up, Atari for braised beef cheeks and seared foie gras. Loved the mashed potatoes under the beef cheek. They said the foie gras was the best they had eaten (and they have tasted a lot).
Two more stops before I called it a night. Right after we got in, they got inundated with locals, so we only tried the risotto.
Next door was a place specializing in seafood, but what caught Eric’s eye was the oysters.
A few skewers of food were ordered with the octopus on the right my choice. The other two skewers were ‘The Original Basque Pintxo – Spanish Gildas’.
What makes the skewers (anchovy, peppers and olive) on the left special? It can be categorized as the first ever Basque pintxo. Its strong, salty and pickled flavor bursts in your mouth like no other. The trick is to eat it all at once. They accepted and mastered the challenge.
Next up? Bedtime for me. After escorting me back to our place, they went back out for me food and drink. I’m not really sure who was watching out for each other. Ha!
Darden Travels 